NP4 in a Fender USA P? will it work with S-1?

Sean Baumann · #1 10-10-2007, 09:55 AM

Ok, so I admit i am jumping the gun, as I haven't even taken the pickguard off. I have this USA P that has the s-1 switch. I'd like to continue to use it, but I want to install this nordstrand np4 pickup. I happened to see a picture (in the assessories for sale) of a USA P pickup + S-1 switch and it looked like 3 wires between the pot and the pickup. I think my NP4 only has two wires. Am I in trouble here? Can I still use my S-1 with this new pickup?

luknfur · #2 10-11-2007, 01:13 PM

I'm not a Fender guy but seems the S-1 is just a series parallel switch which requires 4 leads (perhaps Fender rigged a common ground elsewhere which would make it 3 wires).

Also not familiar with the NP4 but any passive split P I can't think of has 4 leads: two leads for each coil.

Edit - that should have been "can think of".

BassJunkie730 · #3 10-11-2007, 01:19 PM

The NP4 does NOT have 4 leads - only two. In fact most vintage style Precision pickups will not have four leads.

Sean Baumann · #4 10-11-2007, 01:32 PM

Ok, no S-1 for me then, if I understand correctly.

::::BASSIST:::: · #5 10-11-2007, 01:59 PM

I have a P with NP4s. Definitely try it. Very nice tone. From what I've heard a P with an S-1 is not that great. Sounds much better in the standard setting.

TyKao · #6 10-11-2007, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sean Baumann

Ok, no S-1 for me then, if I understand correctly.

I can't quite tell which wires are coming from where, but this diagram might help. It looks like there are 4 wires coming from the current Fender P pickups instead of 2.

http://www.fender.com/support/diagra...260_62APg2.pdf

Earwaxsculptor · #7 10-11-2007, 02:45 PM

I am looking for a complete S-1 pot (with knob) so I can try a series parallel jobber on my jazz I am rebuilding, so if you want to get rid of yours let me know, Thanks!

-Jesse

luknfur · #8 10-11-2007, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sean Baumann

Ok, no S-1 for me then, if I understand correctly.

I just looked at the Nord site and it looks like a typical split P so you've got two leads for each coil - just desolder or cut and tack on longer leads so it's like a Model P. For that matter Carey will make it that way for you.

Again not familiar with the S1 but a Fender split P is no different than any of the rest. If it wires to it you do the "whatever" to it the same way.

BassJunkie730 · #9 10-11-2007, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luknfur

I just looked at the Nord site and it looks like a typical split P so you've got two leads for each coil - just desolder or cut and tack on longer leads so it's like a Model P. For that matter Carey will make it that way for you.

Again not familiar with the S1 but a Fender split P is no different than any of the rest. If it wires to it you do the "whatever" to it the same way.

+1 i should have mentioned that

Carey WILL do many custom mods to his "standard" pickups.

In fact I'm really thinking about an NP4 for my next P-bass.

I'm certainly not going to deter you from experimenting at all - BUT you may find that the tone is not as useble as the "classic" P setting. HOWever - if you got the switch already - who cares right?

Sean Baumann · #10 10-12-2007, 07:28 AM

I think I'll just skip the switch. I ordered a new wiring harness and pots from Butch.

I like the variation afforded by the S1 switch, but the volume drop it causes is largely unacceptable.

luknfur · #11 10-12-2007, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sean Baumann

I think I'll just skip the switch. I ordered a new wiring harness and pots from Butch.

I like the variation afforded by the S1 switch, but the volume drop it causes is largely unacceptable.

Personally I dismiss a pup or option based on tone not output. Amp gain/volume put the output where it needs to be.

I just had an LP P that's hard-wired parallel with 3K DCR and among other tones it put out probably the best URB tone I've gotten from an electric bass.

A unique tone is hard to come by, volume is not.

Sean Baumann · #12 10-12-2007, 09:32 AM

Well, in my situation, I will largely be using the standard setting (series?). I can't just hit the switch, I would have to reset the gain somewhere in the signal chain. This could wreak havoc with sound systems if I don't get it just right.

BassJunkie730 · #13 10-12-2007, 10:15 AM

Sean, You could use a compressor after your passive bass signal to control that type of volume increase.

But then - that's another thing to add if you don't already.

Every choice has a consequence - What matters is if the ends IN THIS CASE justify the means.

Sean Baumann · #14 10-12-2007, 11:16 AM

I do have a compressor on my board, but rarely use it these days. The volume decrease in parallel is quite large, probably due to loss of bottom-end. I doubt a compressor could make up for it unless really cranked. No biggie, I dig the standard P tone, and I always take a second bass anyways.

Shindig · #15 10-12-2007, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sean Baumann

I think I'll just skip the switch. I ordered a new wiring harness and pots from Butch.

I'm think of replacing my wiring and pots on my MIM P-bass (already got the NP4

).
Who is this Butch person?
thanks.

EDIT - I found Butch at Bayou cables. Nevermind.