Odd Distortion problem?

Lazarus12 · #1 08-24-2011, 07:06 AM

I have been experiencing some odd distortion on by bass when I use a certain cable, although, when I use the same cable, but a different bass, there is no distortion. I have a Warwick Katana and when I was playing it last night I discovered that ugly distorted undertone and lowered volume. I tightened up the input jack and me and my dad think it could be a wiring problem in the bass. Today a friend of mine who also plays bass said it might be a connection to one of the pots. So I came here to ask for some help! Thanks in advance!

Chrishi87 · #2 08-24-2011, 07:15 AM

Change the Batterie of the Bass

Lazarus12 · #3 08-24-2011, 07:25 AM

I forgot to mention that I got a brand new battery in the bass! Sorry about that!

pbd · #4 08-24-2011, 08:04 AM

same cable, different basses? If one bass is an active bass and the other is passive you could be hearing different frequencies between the two. The cable will change your sound and depending on the bass that may be a good or a bad thing.

my 2 cents,
Todd

1958Bassman · #5 08-24-2011, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lazarus12

I have been experiencing some odd distortion on by bass when I use a certain cable, although, when I use the same cable, but a different bass, there is no distortion. I have a Warwick Katana and when I was playing it last night I discovered that ugly distorted undertone and lowered volume. I tightened up the input jack and me and my dad think it could be a wiring problem in the bass. Today a friend of mine who also plays bass said it might be a connection to one of the pots. So I came here to ask for some help! Thanks in advance!

What's in the signal path? If the bass with active electronics is the one that causes the distortion, it could be that the maximum average level or transients are higher than the one with passive electronics and something in the path can't handle it. If I play my bass through the effects normally used for guitar through the same amp, I get a slight crackle and if I bypass the effects, it's gone. If you're not using anything but the bass and amp, play the basses through different amps, using your cables. If possible, use the same make/model of amp. If you can't replicate the sound with different amps, you'll need to take your rig to a good technician, so they can see what's happening on an oscilloscope. This will not only let them see the distortion, it will also let them see the signal voltage.

JTE · #6 08-24-2011, 09:07 AM

Have you tried all the variables? You say you tried the same cable with a different bass. Have you tried a different cable with the Warwick? Also, you changed the battery, but is it putting out the correct voltage in cicuit? Measure the DC voltage while it's in the circuit (you'll have to have the meter in between the + pole of the battery and the battery plug to take this measurment, so you'll probably need to do some small jumpers to check it, or just put a brand new alkaline battery in there).

If the bass doesn't make the sound with a different cable, but does with that particular one, then I'd check to make sure the cable is soldered well, shielded well, and makes good contact with all three points of the bass's output jack. The tip needs to make good solid and clean contact with the tip of the jack, and the barrel of the plug needs to make solid and clean contact with both the sleeve and the ring connectors of the jack. The ring connector is the switch that turns the battery on.

Try spraying a little good contact cleaner (e.g. DeOxit) on the plug then insert and remove it a few times. That'll clean the interior of the jack and the exterior of the plug too.

John

john grey · #7 08-24-2011, 05:43 PM

A lowering of volume suggests resistance so the concept of a pot problem is an appropriate idea.
Volume pots are commonly soldiered via a center post and a single (there are 3 in a common pot): check that the soldier joints are bright and clean - the soldier well melted. A cold joint can be a problem. ANY looseness requires replacement. Two common mfg are Alpha and Honeywell. Alpha is the cheap POS that sell for $3 (and put a BRAND NAME on it then sell it for $14). If you DO have to replace it just go to a large electronics page and give them the resistance (generally 250k or 500k ohms) & specify it's for a volume control. Honeywell electronics are not expensive and last. They also feel like quality. :->

If it's a pot that is part of an active circuit get the schematic from the mfg - first. The likelihood is that it will still be a variable resistor of some stripe but get the EXACT item. If everything look OK check any exposed board of passive units (electrolytic caps will have a rounded top if blown), often wasted components will smell like scorching or have an obvious scorch mark. This is not that common. What is common is very simple issues like passive components simply being buggy and poor contacts. Micro boards that use SMD units generally cannot be "repaired" and must be replaced.

(SMD= surface mounted devices, super small components such as are used in cell phones or computers)