Out Put Jacks

BawanaRik · #1 12-12-2012, 10:32 PM

My 65 Jazz bass has an out put jack that is about as simple as it gets. If it stops working it readjust it and away we go. It's sooms that most of my newer basses have a monstrosity that's about 2 in long and unaccessable.

So I have an hand made guitar with a chop stick wedged into the jack so it works. I am not feeling this. I am in the process of repairing my Cirrus. It's taken an hour and I'm just to the point of being able to order the 10 dollar part. The Knobs must come off, the preamp must come out and then I had to find a way of getting the jack out. None of this happens on the Jazz Bass.

Now the reason for this post is why use these new jack since it's been my experience they don't work and are a pain in the neck to repair? I've not seen one of these jacks that functions as it should. Every one I checked has a dead spot as you rotate it. After a while you don't need to rotate it. Is there a trick to repair these thing without replacing them?

Is their lack of function related to age and wear, although I've seen new ones do it? I have ordered a Switch Craft in the hopes that they are still a quality product.

Pilgrim · #2 12-12-2012, 10:34 PM

Just replace it with the Switchcraft jack. They're only a few bucks with two wires to solder.

line6man · #3 12-12-2012, 10:51 PM

It would help if you specified what sort of jack the bass has. There are all sorts of different jacks, from open-frame panel-mounts common on Jazz basses, to deep panel endpin styles, to low quality plastic jacks, to very high quality plastic jacks of a different physical construction, and so on.

BawanaRik · #4 12-12-2012, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pilgrim

Just replace it with the Switchcraft jack. They're only a few bucks with two wires to solder.

That's the plan. It's actually three wires because the jack is used a switch. The time was mostly finding the various devices to work all the different fasteners. The worst thing was I had to take a close look at the guts of the Peavey. It's no where near the same level as an Alembic. If I didn't look I never would have thought about it.

I'm trying to figure why the trend to these things? Is it to keep people from fixing their own gear? Is it supposed to work better?

I should be glad that Switch Craft is still in business. Actually I am glad they still in business.

Stealth · #5 12-13-2012, 01:54 AM

So far I'd only had trouble with one barrel-type jack that had become worn with use, and had to be replaced. For ease of installation, I prefer regular jacks, but for ease of use (because of the chances of a jack contact shorting out on the shielded cavity) I prefer barrel jacks because the hot and cold (or switch) contact have a smaller chance of touching something they shouldn't.

BawanaRik · #6 12-13-2012, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stealth

So far I'd only had trouble with one barrel-type jack that had become worn with use, and had to be replaced. For ease of installation, I prefer regular jacks, but for ease of use (because of the chances of a jack contact shorting out on the shielded cavity) I prefer barrel jacks because the hot and cold (or switch) contact have a smaller chance of touching something they shouldn't.

Thanks. That makes sense.

abemo · #7 12-13-2012, 11:26 AM

Generally speaking, open jack styles work well for pickguard mounted jacks. This is because they have a relatively short stem, and they are secured by a nut on the outside of the bass. This only works if the material the jack is mounted to is very thin (eg, a pickguard or occasionally a very thin piece of wood on the top of the bass). Barrel jacks, however, are generally secured by a nut on the inside of the control cavity, and the nut can screw down the entire length of the shaft, which allows them to be secured to a much thicker piece of wood (eg, through the side of the control cavity or the endpin). A lot of times an open style jack does not have sufficient stem length to mount it to the instrument, depending on the placement of the jack and the thickness of the wood it is being mounted to, and therefore, even though they are easy to repair, they are not always a practical option for the specific instrument you are using.

Pics would help to determine whether or not an open jack would be a viable option.

Crater · #8 12-13-2012, 12:40 PM

The Cirrus is a modern-style ACTIVE bass with an edge-mounted output jack. It need a stereo jack because it's an active bass, the extra contact is used to connect the battery (-) terminal to ground when a cord is plugged in.

You'll need to replace it with the same style of jack or you'll have to make some pretty serious modifications to use an open-frame jack. (Switchcraft calls it an "end pin style" jack).

mech · #9 12-13-2012, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crater

The Cirrus is a modern-style ACTIVE bass with an edge-mounted output jack. It need a stereo jack because it's an active bass, the extra contact is used to connect the battery (-) terminal to ground when a cord is plugged in.

You'll need to replace it with the same style of jack or you'll have to make some pretty serious modifications to use an open-frame jack. (Switchcraft calls it an "end pin style" jack).

Replacing a barrel type with a stereo open frame will mean the hole has to be about 1" in diameter so the open frame contacts will have room to spread when a male jack is inserted. The conversion can get pretty messy if you don't have the right tools or skills. I've never had to replace a barrel jack but I do occasionally spritz them with contact cleaner and use a loose male jack and rotate/insert to clean them.

mech