Pot replacement on passive American vintage p-bass

Hizzoner · #1 03-05-2009, 09:06 AM

How difficult an operation is this? It seems easy and replacement pots are fairly cheap..should I be looking for a particular brand of pots?

Any particular solder I should look into or avoid? Not very experienced with soldering except some toilet plumbing work...

I assume finish with some heat shrink tubing...

Thanks

MB

**sleepy_monkey** · #2 03-05-2009, 10:03 AM

I have a similar question.

Will changing from 250k pots to 500 k pots make a difference in my sound? I am using Passive EMG HZs.

Also, what replacement should I use for my tone pot?

Links would be great!!

To the OP...all it is is soldering I think...pretty painless process.

JKT · #3 03-05-2009, 10:06 AM

As for the tone pot I really recommend you check out a Stellartone.
I put one in one of my basses and I really, really like it. it does everything they say it does.

This is gonna be way more than a regular passive tone pot. But I will never consider replacing with anything else.

JKT

JKT · #4 03-05-2009, 10:08 AM

here ya go

http://www.stellartone.com/index.asp

Busker · #5 03-05-2009, 10:16 AM

You need solder intended for electronics work - rosin core solder. Don't use acid core. Heat shrink tubing is nice, but optional.

And going from 250K to 500K pots should brighten the tone. Most Fender basses use 250K pots, but most import basses use 500K.

I'd get a decent new soldering iron. You need to "tin" the new tip (melt some solder onto the tip, it makes the solder flow into/onto the work better). Also, keep a wet cloth or sponge on the workbench to wipe the tip of the iron often.

And be careful! I've burned my fingertips by not paying attention to the way I was gripping the iron (I know, dumb). But not as dumb as the time I was working in my underwear (hey, I was home alone) and a drop of molten solder hit my bare leg.

**sleepy_monkey** · #6 03-05-2009, 10:20 AM

Thanks guys. I might have to look into that tone pot...but that is up there.

I don't think my volume pots have a 250k or 500k stamp on the bottom of them, is there a way to find out?

Busker · #7 03-05-2009, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleepy_monkey

Thanks guys. I might have to look into that tone pot...but that is up there.

I don't think my volume pots have a 250k or 500k stamp on the bottom of them, is there a way to find out?

Starting at $79? It must be real good.

If you don't want to spend that much, go with CTS pots (Fender sells them), which have pretty much been the industry standard for 40+ years. Around $5 to $7 each. Probably not as good as the $79 job, but OK.

I think you can test the pots to find the value, but that requires an ohmmeter.

Dom Phenom · #8 03-05-2009, 10:42 AM

For the most dramatic change in tone, it's the capacitor that is attached to the pot that will give you the best results. I think that the cap has more to do with it than the resistor pot. For between 5-10 you can get yourself a nice oil and paper cap, and you won't believe how slick your passive tone will be all along the range of your tone knob.

stingray69 · #9 03-05-2009, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Busker

You need solder intended for electronics work - rosin core solder. Don't use acid core. Heat shrink tubing is nice, but optional.

And going from 250K to 500K pots should brighten the tone. Most Fender basses use 250K pots, but most import basses use 500K.

I'd get a decent new soldering iron. You need to "tin" the new tip (melt some solder onto the tip, it makes the solder flow into/onto the work better). Also, keep a wet cloth or sponge on the workbench to wipe the tip of the iron often.

And be careful! I've burned my fingertips by not paying attention to the way I was gripping the iron (I know, dumb). But not as dumb as the time I was working in my underwear (hey, I was home alone) and a drop of molten solder hit my bare leg.

+1

I'd also like to add/recommend covering any exposed areas of your bass within soldering proximity with towels or old rags to avoid any hot solder accidentally falling/flipping onto your bass (happened to me once) - I'd rather it would have it hit my bare leg instead!

**sleepy_monkey** · #10 03-05-2009, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Busker

Starting at $79? It must be real good.

If you don't want to spend that much, go with CTS pots (Fender sells them), which have pretty much been the industry standard for 40+ years. Around $5 to $7 each. Probably not as good as the $79 job, but OK.

I think you can test the pots to find the value, but that requires an ohmmeter.

Gotcha...I have an ohmmeter at home...so I touch the negative I guess with the positive? And it will read out either 250 or 500 depending on the setting?

Don Phenom, do you have a link to a good cap, etc?

So basically...replacing all volume pots, tone pot and cap should enhance my tone....anything else I need to replace while I am under the hood?

What are some good 500k volume pots?

JKT · #11 03-05-2009, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Busker

Starting at $79? It must be real good.

If you don't want to spend that much, go with CTS pots (Fender sells them), which have pretty much been the industry standard for 40+ years. Around $5 to $7 each. Probably not as good as the $79 job, but OK.

I think you can test the pots to find the value, but that requires an ohmmeter.

Actually that's a deal as last I heard they were about $103

For those who haven't listened to one or hit the website, the deal is that there is an array of micro caps mounted on a mini circuit board with the pot. Rather than roll off treble and then get right into the midrange as most passive pots do. the micro caps make it possible to shave off narrow bands of just treble frequencies, leaving the mids largely intact. Vast improvement IMO.

JKT

Busker · #12 03-06-2009, 05:49 AM

Here's my latest wiring job, on a P bass. I'm not the world's greatest, but my wiring jobs are looking a little better than they used to. A good soldering iron with a new tip makes a big difference (the tips tend to get oxidized and just wear out after a few jobs, but you can buy replacement tips).

The brown wire is some vintage Belden "Hookup" wire. Solid wire rather than fine strands, with some kind of cloth insulation. I use it for grounding wire. The "Standard" cap is an old wax/paper .05 uF that I salvaged out of a junk 1960's cheapo guitar amp. The pots are recent CTS, the jack is a vintage Switchcraft, another salvaged part.

**sleepy_monkey** · #13 03-07-2009, 03:40 PM

So, about the caps...the caps filter out the lower frequencies? I would think those are the ones I need....haha

rllefebv · #14 03-07-2009, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleepy_monkey

So, about the caps...the caps filter out the lower frequencies? I would think those are the ones I need....haha

They actually filter out the highs... Bleed 'em to ground...

And Busker... That's a good lookin' job there! I'm getting ready to do a slew of my basses and I can only hope that they come out as nice!

-robert

rbbrchkn · #15 03-08-2009, 04:19 PM

That's great looking wiring, did you notice any change in the sound afterward? Seems like the different cap at least would change things...

John Wentzien · #16 03-08-2009, 04:25 PM

Here's where I get mine.
http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/b...wiringkits.htm