Potential problem with a p-bass

daviesnet · #1 09-21-2009, 12:51 PM

Heya I'm new to bass (12 years of 6 string guitar and 2 on bass) and this forum.

I may upset a few diehards here, but I have been playing various extremeties of metal for about a decade and it has only come to recent times that I have found myself playing bass in a doom band. Pretty handy as I am an amateur bassist.

I have bought a p-bass as I liked playing it in the shop and so the story begins:

At my first gig with the new band (we have all come out of british metal bands to form this one) my p-bass decided that it didnt want to work. It had appeared to be totally shorted. I was plugging into an orange ad200 head. Previously I had rehearsed with ampeg solid state head/cabs and it had worked fine. I then had to borrow one of the support bands basses. The sound guy tried to D.I the bass and said the signal from the bass was so weak he couldnt just run through the P.A. I was embarrassed beyond belief.

When my brother took it into the shop (i was at work and couldnt) the guy plugged it back into a shop amp and it worked. He was a tad snobbish and believed that the pickups weren't responding well because the guitar was in C-standard tuning as opposed to e and it wasn't set up properly.

Whilst I recognise that could be the case, it did not explain why the thing was now working, albeit with a lower output volume than when I bought the thing, bearing in mind I had already put on 110 gauge strings and raised the action as I assume that it being a guitar it would be kinda the same as my 6-string electrics. The strings aren't slack so I believe they mustn't be missing the pole pieces when they vibrate. Please correct me if I am wrong....

The problem seems to be that it works despite the problem at the gig, but the signal from the bass appears weaker.

I have heard in chinese whispers that the input jack of p-basses can twist and short out. Perhaps the main earth has come away, or a joint is dry in the soldering? I had an instance when my bass fell over at rehearsal ages ago. I wonder if this was enough to bugger something up. I have since tried to put it through another ampeg valve amp. It strangely didn't give any sound in the passive jack, but it did with the active. It is a passive bass with a split single coil. I wonder if the amp jack was buggered....

Before I go tearing it all apart to have a look I ask is if any of you have had similar issues?

thanks in advance.

Band Dad · #2 09-21-2009, 01:04 PM

I'm not sure what's going on there, but I do think you might open her up and give things a visual. You don't have to tear things up.

Remove the pick guard screws and deftly work the guard up over the pickups and then slide it out keeping in mind the wires that are all still attached (that's a good thing). Any twisting, shorting, etc. should be readily apparent. If that's as far as you want to go, then slide the guard back in and reattach it. No harm done; takes a few minutes; and you've had the satisfaction of getting into your gear.

dalkowski · #3 09-21-2009, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daviesnet

I have heard in chinese whispers that the input jack of p-basses can twist and short out.

You have heard correctly. Start looking there.

daviesnet · #4 09-21-2009, 01:09 PM

I'm not exactly a luddite when it comes to soldering and tinkering with things, but I wondered if it is a common problem. I heard it was, but people talk. I just wonder why my output volume drastically appears to have been lowered.

Odd isn't it. But I think I will take it out and have a look. thanks for the swift replies by the way guys.

PJSShearer · #5 09-21-2009, 01:13 PM

The first thing I would do is to do an A/B test with a similar Bass and compare the output levels before doing anything, repeat the test through a different Amp as well.

If the output level is significantly less than the other bass then something could be wrong - How near the strings are the pickups? try raising them so they're nearer the strings.

But be advised, the input jacks of all basses can twist and short out - if the lock nut works lose!!. That would be the first thing I'd check - if it is lose then don't tighten it yet, remove the scratch plate screws and carefully remove the scratch plate. Check the jack socket and ensure that the wires aren't twisted and shorting out - then tighten the lock nut.

If the jack socket is/was OK then examine the wiring closely -check for shorted/snapped off wires and dry solder joints.

PJSShearer · #6 09-23-2009, 03:59 PM

Any news?