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  #41  
Old 12-30-2012, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noisicerp1 View Post
So linear taper is for volume, audio taper is for tone?
Can you tell me what 250 and 500 are for? I need to buy some pots tomorrow for my vintage Fender Pbass
There is some disagreement between individuals regarding audio vs. linear. I prefer audio taper for the tone pot, and usually audio for the volume as well. (assuming a passive circuit- for active circuits linear often works better)

500k vs 250k:
A 500k simply lets a little more highs through and is usually used with humbuckers. 250k is the norm for single coils and P basses too.
Even with humbuckers, I still prefer 250k sometimes, especially for the tone pot... Seems to have a better taper to me.
  #42  
Old 12-30-2012, 08:12 AM
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I tend to favor CTS pots, but it's simple logistics for me. The larger local music store I usually shop at carries mostly Fender/Squier or Gibson/Epiphone products.

They carry CTS pots for Fender style instruments, so that's what I get by default for my Squiers.

I did end up with one Alpha pot in my strat, bought in the smaller local store. While it has a different feel than the CTS pots, neither feels cheaper or worse in any way.

I think for most guitar/bass applications, as long as you don't end up with really cheap junk, all the well known, name brands are pretty equal in operation and durability.

The original alpha mini pots in my strat were changed simply because I don't like 500k pots on single coils, not because they didn't work well.
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  #43  
Old 12-30-2012, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotch View Post
There is some disagreement between individuals regarding audio vs. linear. I prefer audio taper for the tone pot, and usually audio for the volume as well. (assuming a passive circuit- for active circuits linear often works better)

500k vs 250k:
A 500k simply lets a little more highs through and is usually used with humbuckers. 250k is the norm for single coils and P basses too.
Even with humbuckers, I still prefer 250k sometimes, especially for the tone pot... Seems to have a better taper to me.
Thank you very much
  #44  
Old 12-30-2012, 02:08 PM
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right, 500ks are brighter, 250ks are what vintage fenders came with.

audio taper volumes drop off really fast from "10", while linear volumes smoothly turn down.

you need audio tapers for tone regardless, or the sound won't change until it's almost all the way down.

(there are tons of threads on this, do some searching; i myself like a more aggressive and grindy P-bass, so it's 500k linear volume, 500k audio tone for me.)
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  #45  
Old 12-31-2012, 05:23 PM
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pots

I think the carvin pots are the best. I wish I had them in all my basses,they're smooth ,tight and work perfect. I wonder who makes them for carvin?
  #46  
Old 12-31-2012, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ampeg2 View Post
I think the carvin pots are the best. I wish I had them in all my basses,they're smooth ,tight and work perfect. I wonder who makes them for carvin?
Carvin pots are made by Alpha, I believe.
  #47  
Old 12-31-2012, 05:31 PM
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Carvin pots are made by Alpha, I believe.
I was just going to say that.
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  #48  
Old 12-31-2012, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by bassgod0dmw View Post
CTS & Bourn would be considered "the best"
I love the Bourn pots. Sooo smooth!
  #49  
Old 12-31-2012, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noisicerp1 View Post
I don't know if i need 250 our 500, or what that even means
Generally, 250k is used on "passive" set-ups, 500k is used in "active" (battery powered) set-ups.

Josh
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  #50  
Old 01-01-2013, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by J.D.B. View Post
Generally, 250k is used on "passive" set-ups, 500k is used in "active" (battery powered) set-ups.

Josh
huh?

250k is "vintage fender", and trims off a bit of treble. 500k is a bit brighter, as it leaves the treble alone.

active controls do a totally different job, and are often more like 25k or 50k.
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  #51  
Old 01-01-2013, 12:33 PM
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I used to think CTS were the best. Even spent the extra dough on some of those "tight tolerance" ones. At least half of them got crackly after not all that much playing. And the action on those things is all over the place with some smooth and some rough, some tight and some loose.

Bourns is the way to go for me. Very consistent, smooth action with no snap-crackle-pop. They also have responsive customer service.
  #52  
Old 01-01-2013, 04:30 PM
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sure, as long as you're getting the real $15 bourns, not the crappy $3 ones!
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  #53  
Old 01-01-2013, 08:42 PM
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Um, the cheap Bourns are far from crappy and are just as "real" as the more expensive, sealed ones. After wasting money on the $10 CTS pots, I have ZERO interest in "upgrading" my Bourns pots that all work 100% fine 100% of the time.
  #54  
Old 01-01-2013, 09:08 PM
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you're lucky then

i was looking for low-torque pots to carry, so i tried a 20-pc bag of the $3 bourns from mouser, and had a very high failure rate, like even two in the same guitar within a month of being installed! never again.

they bear little resemblance to the nice bourns you get from other places.
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  #55  
Old 01-01-2013, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walterw View Post
you're lucky then

i was looking for low-torque pots to carry, so i tried a 20-pc bag of the $3 bourns from mouser, and had a very high failure rate, like even two in the same guitar within a month of being installed! never again.

they bear little resemblance to the nice bourns you get from other places.
Same experience here with a bulk bag of Bourns pots from Mouser. No bueno!
  #56  
Old 01-02-2013, 07:59 AM
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Looks like Mouser doesn't carry the ones I got. I go for the mini pots.
  #57  
Old 01-03-2013, 08:46 PM
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hmm; if the ones you're referring to are anything like the mini pots in the bourns push-pulls or pan pots from allparts, those are indeed pretty nice.
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