Pots and mini pots

[EddieG]

Besides the obvious, what's the difference between them, and what's the better choice?

[mjolnir]

Less distance to travel between on and off in a mini pot.

[EddieG]

So not really worth considering in a bass then.

[mjolnir]

Depends on the bass. If you have the choice, I'd suggest just going with regular sized pots.

[Trevorus]

Originally Posted by mjolnir

Less distance to travel between on and off in a mini pot.

While retaining the same amount of rotation. I like the feel of bigger pots, and there is more resistive track to work with.

[EddieG]

I've never used them before, I used normal size pots in my Warmoth. Reason I ask is, I'm going to be replacing the electrics in my SX as a matter of course, and thinking that normal sized pots might not fit.

[ErebusBass]

Originally Posted by EddieG

I've never used them before, I used normal size pots in my Warmoth. Reason I ask is, I'm going to be replacing the electrics in my SX as a matter of course, and thinking that normal sized pots might not fit.

You'd be right on that one. I had to do a little bit of routing after I changed the pots in my SX. Worth it though.

[Jim C]

Routing like in the body cavity or opening up the holes in the mounting plate (or both)?
The pots in my SX Jazz are way to easy to turn (no resistance).
If I replace with small CTS metric pots, will I still have this problem?

[Trevorus]

Originally Posted by Jim C

Routing like in the body cavity or opening up the holes in the mounting plate (or both)?
The pots in my SX Jazz are way to easy to turn (no resistance).
If I replace with small CTS metric pots, will I still have this problem?

Often cheap pots have thin lubricant in them. Nicer CTS pots generally have a thicker lube, so they have a bit of turning resistance, which makes for a good tactile feel.

[JustDavid]

Caught a great tip in here for increasing pot friction;
take a hair elastic & wrap it around the pot shaft several times between pickguard & knob. It will cause friction between those two.

[Jim C]

Thanks
You mean like the twistie thing my daughter uses to put her hair up in a pony tail with?

[ErebusBass]

Originally Posted by Jim C

Routing like in the body cavity or opening up the holes in the mounting plate (or both)?
The pots in my SX Jazz are way to easy to turn (no resistance).
If I replace with small CTS metric pots, will I still have this problem?

The control cavity wasn't big enough to fit the tone pot comfortably. The pot didn't go down all the way and the knob was at an angle when everything was put back together. It took me two minutes with a dremel, it only needed about another 1/6 of an inch.

[JustDavid]

Exactly. Get the expensive ones that don't have the metal part.

[jkramer5]

I just replaced the pots in 2 SX jazz Bass's (an SJB-62 and an SJB75)with full sized CTS pots and didn't have to modify the control cavity on either one. I aligned the pots with the tabs all facing the output jack.





I did have to drill out the shaft holes in the control plates but the pots didn't touch the sides of the cavity at all.

I also had to snap off the little tabs on the pots that go in a 2nd smaller retainer hole.

[ErebusBass]

Originally Posted by jkramer5

I just replaced the pots in 2 SX jazz Bass's (an SJB-62 and an SJB75)with full sized CTS pots and didn't have to modify the control cavity on either one. I aligned the pots with the tabs all facing the output jack.





I did have to drill out the shaft holes in the control plates but the pots didn't touch the sides of the cavity at all.

I also had to snap off the little tabs on the pots that go in a 2nd smaller retainer hole.

That jazz has a bigger control cavity. Mine is a P/J with the output jack on the side. Standard P-bass pickguard.

[jkramer5]

If I understood the guy that asked correctly, he has a jazz also. That's why I posted the clarification.

[Jim C]

Yes, jazz for me, thanks for the info