Pre-Wired Jazz Bass Harness???

[EZ9R]

Any recommendations where I can buy a pre-wired jazz bass harness?
All I'm looking for is 2 Vol. and 1 Tone for just a straight passive Jazz Bass. With the best components.
I can solder the pickups to the pots, it's just I've never made a harness and looking to buy one online pre-made.
Thanks.......

[mykelbass]

Hi there
Bayou Cables makes a nice and cheap jazz bass harness:

http://www.bayoucables.com/standard-...ess-p-389.html

[joeyl]

if you can solder then why not make your own? go to guitar-electronics for example, select 3 pots, cap and output jack, refer to wiring diagrams and go at it

[line6man]

Originally Posted by joeyl

if you can solder then why not make your own? go to guitar-electronics for example, select 3 pots, cap and output jack, refer to wiring diagrams and go at it

+1.

You are wasting your time and money buying a pre-assembled harness.

It takes only a few minutes to solder it yourself, and maybe $20 for a soldering kit from RadioShack or something.

[i_got_a_mohawk]

Another +1

Even buying your own cheap soldering gear and the parts would be cheaper than buying one preassembled.

Tho, I did buy cables from Butch years back (before I was confident soldering) which were amazing quality.

One thing that I find wierd about the harness Butch is selling:

The Mallory 150 caps that I use are exactly the same internally as an orange drop. They actually cost me more than the orange drops.

...

The only thing that is different about orange drops is that they have a waterproof coating.

If that's the case, why not just use the orange drops?

[line6man]

Originally Posted by i_got_a_mohawk

One thing that I find wierd about the harness Butch is selling:



If that's the case, why not just use the orange drops?

It's not going to matter one way or another, tonewise, but that's for another thread.

Yeah, why pay more for one cap that's the same as another cap?

[mcrracer]

I have over 35 years experience in electronics , specializing in building tube guitar amps...and a Mallory 150 IS NOT the same as an Orange Drop. Plus there are several OD cap series which are entirely different from each other. So just saying Orange Drop means absolutely nothing if you don't specify which series you are using. In amps it makes a big difference in tone.

[line6man]

Originally Posted by mcrracer

In amps it makes a big difference in tone.

But in guitars/basses, it doesn't.

[mcrracer]

There are people who claim to hear a difference among Bumble Bee, OD, PIO and other caps in guitars. I , however am not one of them. But I would not go so far as to state "There is no difference" Maybe you and I can not hear the difference, but that does not prove that there is no difference. I leave that up to the individual.

[i_got_a_mohawk]

Originally Posted by line6man

It's not going to matter one way or another, tonewise, but that's for another thread.

Yeah, why pay more for one cap that's the same as another cap?

Oh don't get me wrong, while we don't agree on tapers, I certainly agree on this one. What matters in this application is the capacitance, not the construction of the cap!

But aye, I was pointing that out, not to get into talking about different types of cap and whatnot. Just that is seems a bit of a silly thing to state, essentially:

"I pay more for mine because they don't have a waterproof coating"

[line6man]

Originally Posted by i_got_a_mohawk

Oh don't get me wrong, while we don't agree on tapers, I certainly agree on this one. What matters in this application is the capacitance, not the construction of the cap!

But aye, I was pointing that out, not to get into talking about different types of cap and whatnot. Just that is seems a bit of a silly thing to state, essentially:

"I pay more for mine because they don't have a waterproof coating"

I know. It just needed to be said.

Tapers are somewhat of a personal preference, but anyone with some common sense and a bit of electrical knowledge should agree that the construction of a capacitor for something like a guitar/bass passive tone control means nothing.
ESR/ESL/leakage resistance/operating temperature/whatever the hell else you want to pull off a spec sheet is totally insignificant.
The only thing that matters is the actual capacitance, which can vary considerably from cap to cap, based on the tolerance.


"I pay more for mine because they don't have a waterproof coating"

Pfft. Everyone knows that waterproof coatings are ESSENTIAL to the construction of a good capacitor. What good is a capacitor that won't work underwater!?

[i_got_a_mohawk]

Well, I like to have a wetter tone, so I find that orange drop caps tend to hold that better. Less leakage.

[line6man]

Originally Posted by i_got_a_mohawk

Well, I like to have a wetter tone, so I find that orange drop caps tend to hold that better. Less leakage.

But with that waterproof coating, how do you soak the capacitors in blood if you want a heavy death metal tone?

[Commreman]

Rothstein Guitars:

http://www.guitar-mod.com/Merchant2/...egory_Code=PJA

[line6man]

Originally Posted by Commreman

Rothstein Guitars:

http://www.guitar-mod.com/Merchant2/...egory_Code=PJA

$70 for standard Jazz wiring!?

That is absolutely ****ing insane!

[EZ9R]

I'll probably make one myself. I've researched that to use 22 AWG wire to connect (looking upside down) lug #1 neck vol. to lug #1 bridge vol. to lug #2 Tone pot then to hot on jack.
I seen some V,V,T jazz harness that bend back lug #3 and solder it to itself and I've seen some that take wire and solder the wire from lug #3 to the back of the pot. That looks more cleaner to me
My question is: if I were to take a wire from lug #3 and solder it back to the pot, what kind of wire should I use. Sorry for my ignorance, but I've seen some on lug #3 that are just bare copper wire, solder #3 lug to the pot by bending back and even seen taking wire and jumping all 3 pots with lug #3 for the vol.
I'm thinking of using this diagram http://www.axesrus.com/images/BASS1.jpg and not bend back lug #3, but use wire on it.
Any suggestions. Thank you all very much for your help.

[line6man]

Originally Posted by EZ9R

I'll probably make one myself. I've researched that to use 22 AWG wire to connect (looking upside down) lug #1 neck vol. to lug #1 bridge vol. to lug #2 Tone pot then to hot on jack.
I seen some V,V,T jazz harness that bend back lug #3 and solder it to itself and I've seen some that take wire and solder the wire from lug #3 to the back of the pot. That looks more cleaner to me
My question is: if I were to take a wire from lug #3 and solder it back to the pot, what kind of wire should I use. Sorry for my ignorance, but I've seen some on lug #3 that are just bare copper wire, solder #3 lug to the pot by bending back and even seen taking wire and jumping all 3 pots with lug #3 for the vol.
I'm thinking of using this diagram http://www.axesrus.com/images/BASS1.jpg and not bend back lug #3, but use wire on it.
Any suggestions. Thank you all very much for your help.

22 gauge wire is fine for everything.

Don't bend the terminals back to solder them to the casing.
This makes it difficult to desolder later on to disassemble the pot.

[EZ9R]

Basically just solder 22 gauge AWG from lug #3 onto the pot itself?
Also, what's the best pots I should use? Planing on using 250k and GC, they're $7-$8 selection is scant at the nearest Electronics Store.
Thanks Again...........

[line6man]

Originally Posted by EZ9R

Basically just solder 22 gauge AWG from lug #3 onto the pot itself?
Also, what's the best pots I should use? Planing on using 250k and GC, they're $7-$8 selection is scant at the nearest Electronics Store.
Thanks Again...........

Yes.

250K or 500K.

This is a topic of much debate, but I prefer linear volumes and audio tones.

CTS makes good pots.

[keyboardguy]

I just ordered the Jazz bass harness from Bayou cables; $35.

Yes, I could build my own, but I don't feel like it, and anyway I can afford it

Let you know how it works out.


Mike