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  #1  
Old 12-11-2006, 01:48 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Question Switch for a Bart Harness 3.4

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Hi there!

I'm planning to upgrade my bass pickups and electronics. I'm thinking on 59CBJD L/S that seems to fit in my bass with a Bart Harness 3.4.

http://static.zoovy.com/img/guitarel...cs/-/hr34card3

As my bass has an on/on switch for going passive/active I was wondering how should I modify the Bart 3.4 harness in order to use this switch to go passive/active with this new configuration.

Thanks in advance!!
  #2  
Old 12-11-2006, 06:44 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: DIXIE
Quote:
Originally Posted by pek74 View Post
Hi there!

I'm planning to upgrade my bass pickups and electronics. I'm thinking on 59CBJD L/S that seems to fit in my bass with a Bart Harness 3.4.

http://static.zoovy.com/img/guitarel...cs/-/hr34card3

As my bass has an on/on switch for going passive/active I was wondering how should I modify the Bart 3.4 harness in order to use this switch to go passive/active with this new configuration.

Thanks in advance!!

FWIW:

My guess the instructions will include it. If not, there's a a/p switch in the XTC preamp diagrams on the Bart site. Compare the wiring to the NTMB and patch it in. Resistors are to cut pop so I'm guessing the sames would apply, maybe someone more knowledgeable knows different.
  #3  
Old 12-12-2006, 07:48 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Thanks for the answer luknfur.

I'm just wondering as the switch is not cuting the battery power, will they drain even when the switch is in passive mode??
  #4  
Old 12-12-2006, 08:21 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Saskatoon, Canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by pek74 View Post
I'm just wondering as the switch is not cuting the battery power, will they drain even when the switch is in passive mode??
Yes, the battery remains connected to the preamp in passive mode.
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  #5  
Old 12-12-2006, 02:14 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: DIXIE
Yeh that a/p redirects the pup signal. Some it seems cut the battery lead, maybe Aguilar. Check out some other pre sites and look at their diagrams. Once you figure out the pre in/out and pre hot and ground leads, just transfer it to the Bart. Of course you’d probably have to rewire the harness. Alternatively you could go with a push/pull volume for a battery break and use the existing for the signal (or visa versa).

I’d think about just going the Bart route cause I guarantee you’ll be inclined to break the habit of pulling the plug after play and likely be killing some batteries as a result.
  #6  
Old 12-12-2006, 07:15 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Thx again luknfur!

I think I'll go with the Bart even if I have to mess around a little with the harness.

Do you know if by switching off the pre-amp will I still be able to use the mids control or at least the bass/treble control?

The standard pre-amp I've got now doesn't allow to use the bass/treble controls in passive mode.
  #7  
Old 12-12-2006, 07:42 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: DIXIE
Quote:
Originally Posted by pek74 View Post
Thx again luknfur!

Do you know if by switching off the pre-amp will I still be able to use the mids control or at least the bass/treble control?

The standard pre-amp I've got now doesn't allow to use the bass/treble controls in passive mode.
That's what a preamp does so that's what you're by-passing. You wouldn't need a preamp if that could be done passive (effectively anyway).
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