Switch installations?

Kwesi · #1 05-18-2010, 11:05 PM

Does anyone have a detailed guide to installing switches from scratch on a bass? I've ordered a pre-wired Bartolini preamp with 4 knobs and a switch but only 4 holes exist currently on my bass so I'd need to drill the 5th for the switch and I'd really like some instruction on how to do so especially if the guide has pictures. Thanks.

i_got_a_mohawk · #2 05-19-2010, 02:51 AM

Drill a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the switch.

Stick the switch through the hole, stick a washer on it, then put the nut on and tighten it up.

**line6man** · #3 05-19-2010, 07:29 AM

Make sure you drill the hole from the top of the bass, not the back.

When the drill pushes all the way through the wood, you don't want to risk tearing out a chunk of the top wood...

ex-tension · #4 05-19-2010, 10:25 AM

Start with drilling the center of the new hole with a 1mm (or #60 in USA?) drill bit. Then increase the bit size gradually.
If your bits are new (=sharp) then it is possible to drill the wood by turning the bits with your fingers. You don't need a machine to drill through a thin piece of wood. Like this, you will have more control on not damaging the wood.
Good luck.

Rickett Customs · #5 05-19-2010, 10:29 AM

You could also use a very tiny drill bit (1/16"), for a pilot (center), then take the bit for the hole intended and drill just enough (2 or 3mm) on both sides, so it won't tear out on either side, when drilling through.

dmusic148 · #6 05-19-2010, 10:31 AM

Let a Luthier install it.
Why? Because I can almost guarantee you that the wood will be too thick to allow the switch shaft to poke all the way through the top. This means the top will have to be thinned at the switch location, from the back, with a Forstner bit, router, or milling machine. Any other method will result in frustration, damage, and cursing.

ex-tension · #7 05-19-2010, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmusic148

Let a Luthier install it.
Why? Because I can almost guarantee you that the wood will be too thick to allow the switch shaft to poke all the way through the top. This means the top will have to be thinned at the switch location, from the back, with a Forstner bit, router, or milling machine. Any other method will result in frustration, damage, and cursing.

It's easy to check out this is the case or not. Kwesi, just remove one of the pots and poke your switch shaft in that pot hole to see it's reaching out enough to mount it's nut.

Chasarms · #8 05-19-2010, 10:54 AM

In the interest of full disclosure of options, I would suggest that you could also replace one of the pots in the circuit with a push/pull pot that replaces the switch. That way, the bass is unmodified from the original control layout and can be restored without incident.

That would be my preference. I don't like doing things that can't be undone.

If you do drill a hole, be sure to use an awl or nail and create a small pit for the drill bit to start in. Slipping bits are are no fun. I might also suggest that you lay down a couple of strips of masking tape around the area. Drill through the tape and then the wood.

Kwesi · #9 05-19-2010, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chasarms

In the interest of full disclosure of options, I would suggest that you could also replace one of the pots in the circuit with a push/pull pot that replaces the switch. That way, the bass is unmodified from the original control layout and can be restored without incident.

That would be my preference. I don't like doing things that can't be undone.

If you do drill a hole, be sure to use an awl or nail and create a small pit for the drill bit to start in. Slipping bits are are no fun. I might also suggest that you lay down a couple of strips of masking tape around the area. Drill through the tape and then the wood.

This is exactly what I had intended to do at first a couple things led me to go with the switch option. I'm about to install a Bartolini preamp with a mid-shift switch in one of my basses. Originally, I had picked the option that had the mid shift selector as a push/pull pot on the mid control but the two center frequencies (250Hz and 800Hz) are a somewhat large departure from what I'm used to (400 or 500Hz). By going with the switch I get three options instead of two (250, 500 and 800Hz) just in case I happen not to like the other two.

Plus I've always wanted to try a serious mod on my bass. It sounds a tad destructive but I've wanted to do something that really made it all mine and was a functional and useful modification so I figure why not try now? I just have to be very careful because this is currently my favorite bass, lol. I'll give it a few practice go's on some scrap wood though.

One more thing, I've heard that it's generally a good idea to cover the drilling surface with a strip or two of painters tape? Opinions?

i_got_a_mohawk · #10 05-19-2010, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmusic148

Let a Luthier install it.
Why? Because I can almost guarantee you that the wood will be too thick to allow the switch shaft to poke all the way through the top. This means the top will have to be thinned at the switch location, from the back, with a Forstner bit, router, or milling machine. Any other method will result in frustration, damage, and cursing.

I wouldnt go by "guarantee"ing anything like that. I've never had an issue adding a switch or a pot to a bass.

The only instrument I own that needs longer shaft pots is my les paul