Warwick Pots

Malachi71 · #1 10-21-2010, 03:06 PM

I recently bought a Warwick Corvette Standard Fretless. I noticed that all three pots have some excessive play and are a little resistant when turning...not smooth. I was able to tighten them a little but that didn't change anything. The bass is an '06 and is in fantastic condition except for this. Can anyone chime in if this is normal on this bass?

FunkMetalBass · #2 10-21-2010, 03:19 PM

It's a 4-year old bass so it's bound to have some minor issues. What's the "excessive play" that you're referencing?

Mtheory · #3 10-21-2010, 03:20 PM

I've got a warwick thumb with a bad volume pot, none of the music stores around can get me a new one apparently.... so be careful.

Malachi71 · #4 10-21-2010, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FunkMetalBass

It's a 4-year old bass so it's bound to have some minor issues. What's the "excessive play" that you're referencing?

The excessive play is the shaft of the pot has movement up and down. It's just a slight amount. If I were to estimate, I'd say about 0.5 to 1mm. Like I said, not big deal but I don't notice this on my other basses.

Is there something I can spray in the pot to help it turn more smoothly?

FunkMetalBass · #5 10-22-2010, 01:33 AM

It'll probably just be easier to change out the pot - they are pretty cheap.

The "play" could just be a byproduct of having a split-shaft pot with a solid shaft knob, but if it's an issue with the pot itself, there's no way around it really.

I don't think there's much you can do for the pot. The smoothness of the turn is usually related to the resistant element, so smoothing it out would probably just wear the pot out faster.

markanini · #6 10-22-2010, 01:44 AM

Warwick pots are MEC brand, made in germany.

Malachi71 · #7 10-22-2010, 04:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FunkMetalBass

It'll probably just be easier to change out the pot - they are pretty cheap.

The "play" could just be a byproduct of having a split-shaft pot with a solid shaft knob, but if it's an issue with the pot itself, there's no way around it really.

I don't think there's much you can do for the pot. The smoothness of the turn is usually related to the resistant element, so smoothing it out would probably just wear the pot out faster.

Hmmm

When I took off the knobs the shafts on the pots looked solid not split.

You're right, it might be easier to change them. Can I replace these MEC pots with another brand or can I only use MEC?

Malachi71 · #8 10-22-2010, 04:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FunkMetalBass

It's a 4-year old bass so it's bound to have some minor issues.

Yeah but my Yamaha is much older than the Warwick and doesn't have this issue. I would think the Warwick pots should be superior to the Yamaha pots. Four years isn't very long for "quality" hardware.

FunkMetalBass · #9 10-22-2010, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Malachi71

Yeah but my Yamaha is much older than the Warwick and doesn't have this issue. I would think the Warwick pots should be superior to the Yamaha pots. Four years isn't very long for "quality" hardware.

You can't judge a hardware's quality by the previous player's use of that hardware.

It's like not changing the oil in your new Ferrari for a year and then arguing that it shouldn't have more issues than your old, beat-up Toyota. If it's treated poorly, it's bound to have issues. Electronics are tiny, delicate parts.

That being said, any hardware will work: Alpha, CTS, etc. You just need to make sure you get the right potentiometer value (probably A250k, if I had to guess).

Bassamatic · #10 10-22-2010, 09:47 AM

Doesn't one of the pots pull up for bypass mode?

Also - be sure that the knobs are not too low and rubbing on the body when turning.

My Warwick $$ had the pots PCB mounted, I think. I know that the switches were - I had to change one. This could make changing them a bit more difficult.

Malachi71 · #11 10-22-2010, 10:10 AM

No, the pots don't pull up for bypass. This bass is passive. Three knobs: volume, pan, treble. The electronic cavity looks pretty simple and clean.

I did check this and the knobs were just about rubbing the body so I did adjust them up. Thanks for mentioning!

MoireBass · #12 10-23-2010, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mtheory

I've got a warwick thumb with a bad volume pot, none of the music stores around can get me a new one apparently.... so be careful.

I'd try calling Warwick directly at (212)777-6990, see if they can sell you a replacement.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Malachi71

The excessive play is the shaft of the pot has movement up and down. It's just a slight amount. If I were to estimate, I'd say about 0.5 to 1mm. Like I said, not big deal but I don't notice this on my other basses.

Is there something I can spray in the pot to help it turn more smoothly?

If it doesn't affect functionality, and it sound like it doesn't, I wouldn't bother replacing it. Pots tend to vary in how much they move up and down and how loose they feel, even within the same type and within the same batch off the assembly line. It doesn't necessarily indicate that the pot will fail sooner.

No, because anything you spray in there will end up mostly on the conductive element and not much around the shaft bearing - where it needs to be to affect movement. If you were to disassemble the pot, it might be possible to put a little viscous grease around the shaft and make it rotate smoother, but that still wouldn't affect the up-and-down movement.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Malachi71

Yeah but my Yamaha is much older than the Warwick and doesn't have this issue. I would think the Warwick pots should be superior to the Yamaha pots. Four years isn't very long for "quality" hardware.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FunkMetalBass

You can't judge a hardware's quality by the previous player's use of that hardware.

It's like not changing the oil in your new Ferrari for a year and then arguing that it shouldn't have more issues than your old, beat-up Toyota. If it's treated poorly, it's bound to have issues. Electronics are tiny, delicate parts.

That being said, any hardware will work: Alpha, CTS, etc. You just need to make sure you get the right potentiometer value (probably A250k, if I had to guess).

What he said - The pots in my 1992 ThumbBass are MEC and have no problems, nor do the (original) ones in my 1975 Rickenbacker. Pots last a long time if not abused.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Malachi71

No, the pots don't pull up for bypass. This bass is passive. Three knobs: volume, pan, treble. The electronic cavity looks pretty simple and clean.

Is this one of those RockBasses? If so, are the pots still MEC or did they go to some cheaper ones?

Malachi71 · #13 10-23-2010, 05:14 PM

I have a 2006 Corvette Standard, made in Germany.

The pots do not make any noise when turned. So I'll wait a while before deciding to change them. Thanks for the number!

15000volts · #14 02-27-2011, 09:15 AM

what is the shape on you're knob screws? I have a 97 streamer lx and the volume(push-pull for passive mode) crackles a lot. the thing is, 3 of the 4 knobs have the screw heads busted and shape-less. the only one that is still in good shape has a sort of 8-like shape to it. i don't know of any screwdriver with that shape.

Bobster · #15 02-27-2011, 09:49 AM

Those are allen-headed screws.

FBB Custom · #16 02-27-2011, 11:52 AM

Some of the Warwick MEC pickups are active. If you replace the pots, make sure you use the same values. Should be printed on the pots but active pickups generally are matched with 25ka and passive either 250ka or 500ka. AllParts or Mouser should have suitable replacements, if you decide to replace them.

15000volts · #17 02-27-2011, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobster

Those are allen-headed screws.

i wish they were, but they aren't.