What solder do you recommend?

NickInMesa · #1 11-17-2009, 12:25 AM

I tried the solder from the Shack, it is ok for electronics, but not for guitar components.

What do you guys recommend?

Craig_S · #2 11-17-2009, 12:35 AM

I have a super old roll of lead solder, for my personal use, that came from the old RCA factory, but that isn't helping you at all. I also have a tube of the really thin Weller "lead free" stuff I've used in a pinch. It seems to work just fine.

Are you sure it's the solder that's the problem? Maybe your soldering iron isn't hot enough to do the job. The 25 watt pencils won't work well for the backs of potentiometers. You'll need more heat than it can give you.

eastcoasteddie · #3 11-17-2009, 04:45 AM

I got Rosin Core from Radio shack, works fine.
I agree with the above regarding heat. I have a 30 watt pencil, it will take forever and a day to do a potentiometer ground connection. I use a 100 watt gun for that.

NickInMesa · #4 11-17-2009, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig_S

I have a super old roll of lead solder, for my personal use, that came from the old RCA factory, but that isn't helping you at all. I also have a tube of the really thin Weller "lead free" stuff I've used in a pinch. It seems to work just fine.

Are you sure it's the solder that's the problem? Maybe your soldering iron isn't hot enough to do the job. The 25 watt pencils won't work well for the backs of potentiometers. You'll need more heat than it can give you.

Well I use a 12W, a 15W, a 30W, a 30/60W and a 100W

But yeah, the back of the pot is hard to solder and if you use too much heat you can actually damage a pot or even the cap (which is less likely).

I also have been in the situation where previous owners had big globs of solder on the back of a pot and I could not remove it with an iron, had to use the cutters to remove the most of it then flatten with a Dremel.

I am looking for fast solder that can also be unsoldered easily, and usually these two are hard to find together in a solder. It usually melts easy the first time and is then is hard to unsolder, or melts slower but is easy to unsolder later.

SGD Lutherie · #5 11-17-2009, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NickInMesa

I tried the solder from the Shack, it is ok for electronics, but not for guitar components.

Why not? Solder is solder.

I use the 63/37 rosin core.

A good iron is more important than the solder.

bassmodder · #6 11-17-2009, 08:10 AM

The more lead the better- I am not really satisfied with the quality of the lead-free solder used in modern electronics.

I understand the environmental concern but should there not be a concern of people pitching the whole gadget in the trash when it breaks? Save an ounce of lead but throw out 40 lbs of gear? Smart.

I go with leaded radio shack or leaded what ever the electronics shop sells me. works great for PCBs and Guitars. The best stuff is ualitek RA core solder P/N:50-3000.

THand · #7 11-17-2009, 08:15 AM

I use a butane powered iron for the back of pots.
Works better than anything else I've tried...plus no cord to get tangled up.
I have never had trouble with solder quality.

James Hart · #8 11-17-2009, 08:17 AM

I like and use this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-C...8470852&sr=8-1

NickInMesa · #9 11-17-2009, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassmodder

I understand the environmental concern but should there not be a concern of people pitching the whole gadget in the trash when it breaks? Save an ounce of lead but throw out 40 lbs of gear? Smart.

That is what I always said. Electronics of today break easily, unless there is some hardcore QA. But since QA costs money, it is usually judged to be cheaper to manufacture junk than good stuff.

Remember the old vacuum cleaner that lasted forever and then we thought we'd do mom a favor by getting her a new one?

1 year later the new vacuum cleaner was in a junkyard.

It's not just the theory that manufacturers want their stuff to break easily so they can sell you new ones faster, it's also that lead solder did last a heck of a lot longer.

But I know that saturnism is also an issue. In poor country people even melt electronics to collect the lead, sometimes in their own home, with the results you can imagine.

THand · #10 11-17-2009, 08:20 AM

I'll admit I just Googled "saturnism"

SGD Lutherie · #11 11-17-2009, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassmodder

The more lead the better- I am not really satisfied with the quality of the lead-free solder used in modern electronics.

+1

I'm as green as I can be, but lead free solder sucks. Plus the connections form tin whiskers over time.

**line6man** · #12 11-17-2009, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NickInMesa

It's not just the theory that manufacturers want their stuff to break easily so they can sell you new ones faster, it's also that lead solder did last a heck of a lot longer.

I'm pretty sure that the crappy solder is part of the planned obsolescence, not just something unrelated.

NickInMesa · #13 11-17-2009, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by THand

I'll admit I just Googled "saturnism"

Ok, lead poisoning

Rickett Customs · #14 11-17-2009, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SGD Lutherie

Why not? Solder is solder.

I use the 63/37 rosin core.

A good iron is more important than the solder.

+1

NickInMesa · #15 11-17-2009, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by line6man

I'm pretty sure that the crappy solder is part of the planned obsolescence, not just something unrelated.

Careful, you're a conspiracy theorist, meaning you're coo coo for Coco Puff.

THand · #16 11-17-2009, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NickInMesa

Ok, lead poisoning

I found it, LOL.

I was hoping it was a movement to keep Saturn (cars) in business

GODSBASSMAN · #17 11-17-2009, 08:34 AM

For your "baby" that's worth all there is try gold or silver. better electrical connections, BETTER SOUND.

Yes, Radio Shack, Home Depot electrical solder has done me fine for years. and I use no less than a 40 watt stick to do the melting.

xaxxat · #18 11-17-2009, 08:53 AM

I always use liquid flux when I solder. Paste works too. Kester no-clean is good solder to use. The Lead free stuff - ROHS - takes a lot of heat and flux to solder, and the joints still look cold-soldered.

CapnSev · #19 11-17-2009, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GODSBASSMAN

For your "baby" that's worth all there is try gold or silver. better electrical connections, BETTER SOUND.

Yes, Radio Shack, Home Depot electrical solder has done me fine for years. and I use no less than a 40 watt stick to do the melting.

This post does not compute.

GODSBASSMAN · #20 11-17-2009, 09:46 AM

Some time back there were discussions about best electrical connection conductors relating to the sound of basses. Some were buying gold or silver coated cables for "purity of sound". Hey, I even tried Monster Cable (read that as: I got sucked into trying).

The OP was asking for "the best" so I said what has been attested to as such. However I do not agree and said so by stating that using regular "electrical solder from where ever one may find it" is going to work adequately enough to be "the best" available. Peace. Solder it in. Play on. Let the notes fly. If you tend to make mistakes, turn up the sound, no one will hear them.