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01-18-2013, 12:49 PM
| | | | Wiring noob - did I accidentally do parallel? Hey all, I recently completed a refinishing job on my Jazz (looks amazing btw) and since I already know that I know nothing about wiring, I took the pickups out in the most basic way I could: By de-soldering the wires at the pickup itself. Then I just took the control plate out, wires and all. Only 4 points to resolder, what could go wrong??
Anyway after hours of heatgun abuse, chemicals, sanding and clearcoating I finally put everything back in exactly as it was, set it up, and the moment I hit the fist note I noticed that the tone was drastically brighter, with more presence. Also when I put both pickups on, instead of cancelling the hum, it got slightly worse. Together both coils sound weak, but individually they are really full and punchy. Almost the opposite of how it used to be.
With what little knowledge I have of tonal wiring, it sounds like I wired my pickups in parallel. Does that sound right?
But I don't see how that could be possible - I only un-soldered in 4 places, and resoldered them as they were. Is there any way maybe a wire could have gotten bent that screwed my whole operation? Any explanation at all? I'd really like my humbucking ability back, any help or insight would be greatly appreciated. | 
01-18-2013, 12:52 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Close to Los Angeles, CA | | | Jazz pickups are supposed to be wired in parallel. | 
01-18-2013, 12:54 PM
| | | | Are they? or maybe I got the terms confused, and wired them in series? As I said, i have very little knowledge in this area. I'm trying to get the hum-canceling ability back, whichever wiring style that is.
Also, I checked a standard jazz bass wiring diagram. Looks exactly like what I did. | 
01-18-2013, 01:10 PM
|  | Progressive bass brony | | Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Zagreb, Croatia | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Mindchef Together both coils sound weak, but individually they are really full and punchy. Almost the opposite of how it used to be.
With what little knowledge I have of tonal wiring, it sounds like I wired my pickups in parallel. Does that sound right? | You managed to wire them in parallel, but out-of-phase. To correct it simply swap the leads of one of the pickups.
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01-18-2013, 01:20 PM
|  | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Colorado | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth You managed to wire them in parallel, but out-of-phase. To correct it simply swap the leads of one of the pickups. | Yes that is his problem.
The jazz pickups are reverse wound and the magnets are reversed as well.
Next time take pictures as you take it apart.
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01-18-2013, 01:26 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Close to Los Angeles, CA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Mindchef Are they? or maybe I got the terms confused, and wired them in series? As I said, i have very little knowledge in this area. I'm trying to get the hum-canceling ability back, whichever wiring style that is.
Also, I checked a standard jazz bass wiring diagram. Looks exactly like what I did. | If they were in series, you would have one functional volume pot.
Also, both series and parallel wiring humcancel. There are fans of both.
As previously mentioned, you probably have phase issues. | 
01-18-2013, 01:35 PM
| | | | Such a simple solution but it worked, thanks! And I took pictures and could have sworn I did it right, oh well, at least it was just a minor thing. | 
01-18-2013, 01:57 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Italy | | Quote:
Originally Posted by line6man If they were in series, you would have one functional volume pot. | Not necessarily, my J is wired in series and i can control both pups individually, i found the schematic somewhere on TB some time ago. I'm trying to figure out a way to active/passive switch while retaining both controls, though i'm kind of a noob. Anyway, since he desoldered the wires at the pups, he must have put them out of phase. Just reverse them and they should work (or if you like the sound, put a switch in to toggle between the two). | 
01-18-2013, 02:05 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Close to Los Angeles, CA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by eukatheude Not necessarily, my J is wired in series and i can control both pups individually, i found the schematic somewhere on TB some time ago. I'm trying to figure out a way to active/passive switch while retaining both controls, though i'm kind of a noob. Anyway, since he desoldered the wires at the pups, he must have put them out of phase. Just reverse them and they should work (or if you like the sound, put a switch in to toggle between the two). | That would probably be the walterw diagram for series wiring with individual volumes, and it requires a complete rewire of the controls from what is standard.
Active/passive switching is unrelated to the rest of the control scheme, so long as the volume pot(s) come before the preamp, so that the impedance of the signal does not change when switching between modes. A bass with two volumes and a single-input preamp simply requires the addition of a DPDT on/on switch for active/passive switching.  | 
01-18-2013, 03:04 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Italy | | Quote:
Originally Posted by line6man That would probably be the walterw diagram for series wiring with individual volumes, and it requires a complete rewire of the controls from what is standard.
Active/passive switching is unrelated to the rest of the control scheme, so long as the volume pot(s) come before the preamp, so that the impedance of the signal does not change when switching between modes. A bass with two volumes and a single-input preamp simply requires the addition of a DPDT on/on switch for active/passive switching.  | Hahaha i got confused, i meant series/parallel. Yes, the walterw schematic is the one i used. | 
01-18-2013, 03:08 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Close to Los Angeles, CA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by eukatheude Hahaha i got confused, i meant series/parallel. Yes, the walterw schematic is the one i used. | It will require more than two poles of switching, but it's doable. I'll post a diagram if you want it. | 
01-18-2013, 03:10 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Italy | | Quote:
Originally Posted by line6man It will require more than two poles of switching, but its doable. I'll post a diagram if you want it. | Why two switches? Anyway, if you have one i'll gladly check it out. If it's too complicated i might go with the version that loses individual control... I plan to put a lot of switches on that bass, so i gotta use the space carefully. | 
01-18-2013, 03:12 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Close to Los Angeles, CA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by eukatheude Why two switches? Anyway, if you have one i'll gladly check it out. If it's too complicated i might go with the version that loses individual control... I plan to put a lot of switches on that bass, so i gotta use the space carefully. | One switch.
A standard DPDT mini toggle or push/pull won't work. | 
01-18-2013, 03:25 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Italy | | | So you mean i need a 3PDT? I don't mind drilling a hole, if that's what you're saying. Eventually i'll put push/push on both volume pots for phase inversion, and another push/push on the tone for a different cap value. | 
01-18-2013, 03:39 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Close to Los Angeles, CA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by eukatheude So you mean i need a 3PDT? I don't mind drilling a hole, if that's what you're saying. Eventually i'll put push/push on both volume pots for phase inversion, and another push/push on the tone for a different cap value. | 4PDT. I was in the middle of drawing the full diagram, but now I have to get out the door, so this will have to wait a few hours.
I'll have a diagram up by tonight. | 
01-18-2013, 03:44 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Italy | | | Thanks, i really appreciate this. I thought you had one ready, this is very kind of you. | 
01-18-2013, 06:06 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Close to Los Angeles, CA | | | | 
01-18-2013, 08:56 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Italy | | | Thank you! I really appreciate this. What do you use for drawing? | 
01-18-2013, 09:00 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Close to Los Angeles, CA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by eukatheude Thank you! I really appreciate this. What do you use for drawing? | No problem. I use MS Paint. | 
01-18-2013, 10:11 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Italy | | | That is very neat and precise for being paint, i couldn't imagine drawing with it decently. Anyway, do you think a 4pdt would fit into the cavity? I mean, a dpdt is already a tight fit.
Last edited by eukatheude : 01-18-2013 at 10:13 PM.
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