Building a cab?

SplitNick · #1 04-03-2010, 07:59 AM

So I am thinking of building some 1x12 cabs. I own an Avatar 2x12 cab which I quite like the sound of, but I want to build a few smaller cabs for different applications.

I have building specs for the EV 806 cab (a 1x12 configuration), but there is not room in this box for a tweeter. I am condiering building it either without the tweeter (using an Eminence Kappa 12) or, hopefully, finding a 12" driver similar to the one used in a Wizzy.

Does anyone have experience building a cab like this? Is a no tweeter 1x12 going to produce the sound of a double bass with enough clarity? Are Wizzy-like, horn-loaded drivers available on the aftermarket?

Any input is appreciated.

fdeck · #2 04-03-2010, 04:03 PM

I've got a droll little article at my site about a homemade 1x12 that I use for DB. Another interesting note is that Eminence is now making a lightweight version of their 6.5" closed back midrange. I bought the heavy version of the 6.5" mid, and have played with and without it. To be honest, the mid doesn't seem to markedly improve my sound.

SplitNick · #3 04-03-2010, 04:15 PM

Thank you Fdeck. You're Pre has been used quite frequently and successfully, so I value what you have to say and will check out the 1x12 article you have at your site.

Greg Clinkingbeard · #4 04-03-2010, 05:12 PM

I have been using this cabinet for a few years. It sounds pretty much like whatever you feed into it. The extreme lows are sacrificed in order to deliver a clear midrange. I like it both on DB and slab. Tipping the scale at around 18lbs is a real bonus as wel.

SplitNick · #5 04-03-2010, 06:36 PM

Clink thanks for the info.

Looking at your site, Fdeck, it appears that there is no tweeter. Which is kind of what I am looking to do. I was just worried about the upper range and overtone production.

I need to read further on your site as well.

fdeck · #6 04-03-2010, 07:41 PM

About the upper range, I am presently playing an old Kay, so it is conceivable that my bass isn't really even producing the upper harmonics that would challenge my speaker. This is something I hope to test soon, as I am shopping for a carved bass right now. Once this has happened and I have a decent pickup installed, I will revisit my tests with the 12" and midrange. What I have done is to build the midrange plus crossover into its own little box, so I can easily try with and without.

Part of me wants the simple one-way system to work just fine because it is nice and compact.

Greg Clinkingbeard · #7 04-03-2010, 09:40 PM

In my experience, the cabinet (driver) has a very clear, pronounced midrange that helps it cut through. It isn't bright at all but it just works. If you are familiar with the Wizzy 10, I found the two cabinets to sound similar but the Wizzy had more mids which I didn't like. Fdeck's cabinet plays much louder, and sounds better, I think.
The only time it didn't cut through was using my old flatback, Evahs, Realist into a Focus. I currently use a Markbass head running dead flat with no problem at all.
Tonight I played my fretless chop loaded with passive barts and strung with flats. The sound was loud and clear.
YMMV, YMWCB, etc.

SplitNick · #8 04-04-2010, 07:23 AM

I think I may just have to jump right in and start builiding. What you guys are telling me sounds very promising. Now I just need to get on a table saw.

drurb · #9 04-04-2010, 09:11 AM

I looked at the title of the thread and thought you needed to construct something to carry your rig.

Seriously-- fdeck is a very valuable resource here. He's done the work.

SplitNick · #10 04-04-2010, 06:33 PM

Hey if you're offering I will not turn down that remarkable vehicle. May have to take a sawzall to it so I can fit my bass.

fdeck · #11 04-04-2010, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SplitNick

Hey if you're offering I will not turn down that remarkable vehicle. May have to take a sawzall to it so I can fit my bass.

That car would probably carry two or three basses easily.

Greg Clinkingbeard · #12 04-04-2010, 09:43 PM

I suspect most of our heroes of the past (and present) have fit their basses in checker cabs with little problem.

SplitNick · #13 04-05-2010, 07:56 AM

I've never had that fortune. However, I did own an old Fors Contour. I ripped the front passenger seat out to transport my bass.

SplitNick · #14 04-05-2010, 07:58 AM

Clink and Fdeck. What did you use to seal the driver. I was thinking high density foam weather stripping. Good? Bad?

SplitNick · #15 04-05-2010, 01:11 PM

And, Fdeck, by what length would you have expanded the port to get to the 40hz instead of 37hz? You mentioned bending the port. If I kept the width and heighth of the port the same while giving it a 90 degree curve around the back, would this be sufficient?

fdeck · #16 04-05-2010, 06:05 PM

Nick,

You'd actually want a shorter port by, let's see... (37/40)^2 = 0.86, so make it 86% of the original length.

About sealing the driver, I think my latest Eminence came with a gasket for rear mounting, otherwise in the past I have used foam weatherstripping like you suggest.

F

SplitNick · #17 04-06-2010, 07:31 AM

Awesome. I think I am almost ready.

TimmyP · #18 04-07-2010, 10:53 PM

IMHO the HF unit in most bass cabinets adds mostly click and scratch. A big exception is the one used by Euphonic. It's large enough that it can actually get down into the mids a bit. So I'd say don't bother with a tweet if all you have room for is the same thing as most all the other cabs have.

I'd just get an Acme LowB1 and say to heck with it.

SplitNick · #19 04-08-2010, 09:37 AM

I can dig that Acme, but I really want to learn how to build these on my own. If I can reduce costs and come up with a cab that I really like I'll feel real nice.

Right now I have like three designs I am looking at. One is the Fdeck design. I actually have that laid out on some 3/4" Birch Plywood. I had to make a few modifications from the 1/2" Ply specs.

I am also looking at Clinks design and a 2x10 that DukeLeJeune is developing. I may end up building all three and probably still staying around the price of atop quality cab.

Who knows. I am just having fun. I am also trying to figure out a switchable harness to make a 8 ohm cab a 4 ohm cab to switch between heads or aplications. I may be way out of my league with that project. I have the physical mechanism drawn out, but I am not to savvy on resistances and how to alter them. It is fun anyway.

Herbie 80's · #20 04-08-2010, 09:45 AM

I heard that cabs are generally pretty easy to build. But one for DB might be a bit harder.. especially if you're looking for it to retain the upright bass-yness.

Fdeck is a good reference, ask for his cab info.