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  #1  
Old 03-15-2010, 02:03 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nashville,TN
Stripped threads in bridge

About an hour before the gig tonight I decided to raise the bass side of my bridge one full turn. Plucked the A string once and heard a loud pop. The threads that were tapped into the bridge stripped out. I was able to whittle a plug out of a pencil to put in the bridge for the threaded post of the Full Circle to rest on. Close, but still a little too low. Day off tomorrow so I'll do a little more surgery then. Anybody else ever have this happen?
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  #2  
Old 03-15-2010, 07:08 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: North Carolina
Alan,

I feel your pain. On my old Standard, I had a bridge with the larger, wooden adjusters installed when I had the neck reset back in the day (a few years ago). The beauty of this was the fact that the threads were larger than on the Full Circle or the other aluminum or brass adjusters.

The maple of the bridge cuts and works out fine for these metal adjusters, but they don't seem to like to be adjusted under full tension. The wooden adjusters, having larger threads, thus larger threads cut into the bridge, seem to work and handle the up-to-tension-load adjusting. They work (travel in adjustment) really easy, too.

On my later Standard (the brown one you have played) it has metal adjusters and I tried to do the same thing and stripped out the maple in it , as you have done. I really need to get a new bridge put on it, but at this point, the action is workable. BTW, this is the one with simulated guts strings, so they bit me as well.

Another thing to consider is the difference between steel vs. guts or simulated guts, in tension. The strings you're probably using are Spirocores (if I remember correctly), whereas I've got the Garbos (simulated guts) and guts on the second bass. More tension, the greater the possiblilty to strip out the maple.

You MIGHT be able to find somebody around town who can help you out.
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Last edited by M Ramsey : 03-16-2010 at 05:50 AM.
  #3  
Old 03-15-2010, 12:07 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nashville,TN
Mike, I probably should have known better. When I installed the FC I noticed the threads weren't as aggressive as the original adjusters. Same pitch but not as coarse. What I'm hoping to find is a bushing to fit in the bridge. If not I'll use a dowel cut to length to get by til I get back home. You're right about the Spiros. Probably should have let off some tension before making the adjustment. Hindsight and all that. Good to hear from you, we're going to be in Morganton sometime this year, hope you can make it to the show. Take Care
  #4  
Old 03-15-2010, 01:00 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Lambertville, NJ
"When I installed the FC I noticed the threads weren't as aggressive as the original adjusters. Same pitch but not as coarse. "

I don't understand what you mean by this....?
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  #5  
Old 03-15-2010, 01:28 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: London, Ontario
Think of it as the perfect opportunity to get the perfect bridge made for your bass.
  #6  
Old 03-15-2010, 05:33 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Inverness Scotland
Dumb question but are they the right threads? FC comes in 2 sizes 1/4 inch and 6mm - different threads.
  #7  
Old 03-15-2010, 06:12 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Menomonie, Wisconsin USA
Alan,

Do you need to borrow a bass for your gigs in Minneapolis, Minnesota & Stoughton, Wisconsin?

I picked up a very nice '37 Kay a couple weeks ago. She's all yours if it helps.

Cheers
Chuck
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  #8  
Old 03-15-2010, 07:57 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nashville,TN
Davpal, what I mean is the threads aren't as deep as the old ones. Kind of like the difference between a wood screw and a machine screw. I wish I could describe it better. Upon closer inspection today, I compared the two FC adjusters. They're different! I tried the treble side in the bass side and it worked fine. Apparently they sent a mixed pair by accident. Bejoyous, the bridge I have was made for this bass so I'm hoping it can be filled and retapped. Chuck, thanks for the offer! Sounds like a cool find. I made a good temporary repair today so I think I'll be ok until I get home. Bruiser, where were you when I installed the dang thing? (kidding)

Last edited by AlanBartram : 03-15-2010 at 08:02 PM.
  #9  
Old 03-15-2010, 08:54 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Australia
Actually when I bought mine, I specified an imperial measurement one, but I got a metric FC with an imperial adjuster

Youd definitely wreck the wood by threading odd sizes into one another, though you would feel it as you were putting it into the bridge. It would be tough to screw in.
  #10  
Old 03-16-2010, 05:39 AM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Chipping Norton, Oxon, England
Never adjust 'up' on full tension. There will be a difference between a machine cut steel or ali male and a tapped female in the wood. Care is needed. I put a smear of beeswax on the adjuster threads before screwing them in. And, yes, make sure metric goes to metric and imp to imp. You can always do a quick check if you have a parts bin in the workshop and can find the relevant known thread. The older you get the more screws you accumulate. - What have I said?

As a rule of thumb, USA tends to be 1/4" and europe metric although this won't always apply.
  #11  
Old 03-16-2010, 05:52 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: North Carolina
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanBartram View Post
Mike, I probably should have known better. When I installed the FC I noticed the threads weren't as aggressive as the original adjusters. Same pitch but not as coarse. What I'm hoping to find is a bushing to fit in the bridge. If not I'll use a dowel cut to length to get by til I get back home. You're right about the Spiros. Probably should have let off some tension before making the adjustment. Hindsight and all that. Good to hear from you, we're going to be in Morganton sometime this year, hope you can make it to the show. Take Care
I'll be the back stage mamager, so I WILL see you. July 3rd. You might want to bring a pair of bermuda shorts.
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