The Über-M - fretless

[Ol'Bass'ead]

Im not a ramp person, so I would vote for number 1.

[IntrepidCellist]

I vote ramp.

[KingRazor]

Originally Posted by IntrepidCellist

I vote ramp.

+1

[15000volts]

i vote number 1

[burl0029]

Originally Posted by miziomix

It looks like the truss rod opening is a little smoke stack and there's smoke rolling out. Just a weird visual that struck me immediately when I saw it.

I vote cover the neck pocket. I don't know whether or not I like ramps, but I do know the photo with it covered looked better to me. Though, the best thing might be to mock it up in Photoshop with hardware and whatnot to get a feel for which would look best.

I could do it for you if you are willing to do a bit of picture hunting and take a new picture of the pieces you have together. If you're using the same hardware as previous versions, I could use one of those photos to steal the hardware from and if you took a new photo of the current bass from the same angle, it would be easy to get a convincing Photoshop job done. Let me know.

[charlie monroe]

I vote for number one, no ramp.

[wraub]

Definitely, most definitely, absolutely, positively, effusively, #1.

For sure.

Yes.

wraub

[miziomix]

Thank you all!

We have narrowed it down to option #1 - veneer, flush with the body; and #2 - a ramp.

Option 1 is pretty straight forward and it's what I have done on the Mark2 and the Spalted Maple build in progress. So, no problem here.

Being this a fretless bass, we found that the ramp solution offers two alternatives.

1. Ramp flush with p-up. Flat.
2. Ramp flush with FB. Same 12"radius.

What do you think?

I will build a test ramp for #2 next week.

thanks!

[miziomix]

Originally Posted by davidAaronCarte

That lighter two-tone in the first one with the body showing through is actually really cool
Thought about a Semangkok (is that what it is?) veneer instead?

I too see what you see David, although it seem like there's only two of us
I would use a Maple veneer actually. But only with a Maple FB. I did that on the first Ü-J and it looks really nice - to me, that is

Originally Posted by burl0029

....the best thing might be to mock it up in Photoshop with hardware and whatnot to get a feel for which would look best.

I could do it for you if you are willing to do a bit of picture hunting and take a new picture of the pieces you have together. If you're using the same hardware as previous versions, I could use one of those photos to steal the hardware from and if you took a new photo of the current bass from the same angle, it would be easy to get a convincing Photoshop job done. Let me know.

Thanks! it's very kind of you. I'll do a test in wood first, then we'll see. Much appreciated

[BarkerBass]

a ramp really should be radiused to match the fretboard so I'd go with that option. Miziomix and I have discussed this lots in the past and I think a ramp with adjustable height would be perfect but perhaps not doable on this bass but definitely radius it to make it work as a ramp and not just a big blocky thumb rest

[kris pung]

Originally Posted by BarkerBass

a ramp really should be radiused to match the fretboard so I'd go with that option. Miziomix and I have discussed this lots in the past and I think a ramp with adjustable height would be perfect but perhaps not doable on this bass but definitely radius it to make it work as a ramp and not just a big blocky thumb rest

+1

[Ol'Bass'ead]

If you match the radius and the height of the fretboard, you would extend the range as you would be able to finger notes all the way up to the pick-up.

[Simon Kamp]

I think the veneer looks incredible, and it gives a much better balance to the overall design, at least IMO - (especially if the polepieces are showing).
It's a good point about the extended fretboard. But will he be using that extra range? It doesn't seem like it will be reachable anyway.

[Simon Kamp]

And btw, I just want to say: you are an inspiration!
I'm currently in the middle of my first build, and in those frustrating moments when I run into unforeseen expenses or realize that I have messed up, threads like these are a good way of keeping focus on the result, and correct the mistakes instead of rushing through.

[wraub]

I keep really digging on the pic with the matching olivewood veneer to fill the space. Nicely matched grain, very consistent. Looks damn good also. I am not a ramp player, never saw the need (for me.)

I am pretty sure, though, that if you are making it, it'll turn out pretty fine regardless.

wraub

[miziomix]

Thank you so much guys. The future owner is going to look for an Ibanez G Willis so he can test the ramp with radius. That should help him decide.

Originally Posted by BarkerBass

a ramp really should be radiused to match the fretboard so I'd go with that option. Miziomix and I have discussed this lots in the past and I think a ramp with adjustable height would be perfect but perhaps not doable on this bass but definitely radius it to make it work as a ramp and not just a big blocky thumb rest

Indeed. A big thumb rest doesn't seem very attractive.

Like some of you, I too am not much of a ramp person. But I see a point on a fretless. Matching the FB radius the ramp becomes a FB extension, thus making the right hand feel as if it were playing on the FB itself. These are all speculations on my side, but I think I'd like that.

Originally Posted by Ol'Bass'ead

If you match the radius and the height of the fretboard, you would extend the range as you would be able to finger notes all the way up to the pick-up.

The only question mark is whether the sound coming out of the Olivewood extension will be consistent with that of the Zericote.

Of course, the best way to do that is a FB that stretches all the way to the p-up. It will be featured on one of my next builds, a Ü-M fretless 5er.

Originally Posted by Simon Kamp

I think the veneer looks incredible, and it gives a much better balance to the overall design, at least IMO - (especially if the polepieces are showing).
It's a good point about the extended fretboard. But will he be using that extra range? It doesn't seem like it will be reachable anyway.

We had briefly considered the option of a 3 octaves FB at the beginning. But there didn't seem to be a need for it.
That kind of fingerboard is reachable, but not in a conventional way. I use a mix of upright and classic guitar technique.

Originally Posted by Simon Kamp

And btw, I just want to say: you are an inspiration!
I'm currently in the middle of my first build, and in those frustrating moments when I run into unforeseen expenses or realize that I have messed up, threads like these are a good way of keeping focus on the result, and correct the mistakes instead of rushing through.

Thank you. I too draw inspiration, gather insights and learn something new everyday here. I sincerely hope my threads can return the favor.

Originally Posted by wraub

I keep really digging on the pic with the matching olivewood veneer to fill the space. Nicely matched grain, very consistent. Looks damn good also. I am not a ramp player, never saw the need (for me.)

I am pretty sure, though, that if you are making it, it'll turn out pretty fine regardless.

wraub

Thank you so much.

Back on the saddle on Sunday. Ready to finish the Ragnarök, start shaping this one and begin the next two projects

[miziomix]

Almost three weeks since my last update. I've been away, I've been sick and when I got better I realized that the saw dust was making it difficult for me to fully recover. I had to take a few more days off.

Back on the saddle...

The future owner has decided to go with the veneer. He has no use for a ramp and the veneer sure looks good.

Before doing that I drilled for the threaded inserts. The neck extends all the way to the p-up in a MM position, that's a long neck pocket. Eight screws.





I have routed the el. cavity and drilled for headstock anchors. Tomorrow I will drill the side dots positions and the bridge/tuners recess. Then I'm ready for Wenge splinters

To drill for the strap lock screw at the same angle as the upper horn, I draw a line along the center of the upper horn and point the drill bit in that direction.



Wish you all a good week ahead

[gnarlyopossum]

Good tip on the strap lock/button alignment. That is one beast of a bolt-on!

[miziomix]

Thank you, gnarlyopossum

The build is progressing nicely. Since the 5er Spalted Maple has to wait one week for lacquer, I am free to focus on this dude.

So....



Here's the Olivewood veneer glued to the top of the neck heel.



The headstock is ready for shaping.

I have found that a very important part of building is organizing tasks in the most efficient order. Of course, that's what every builder does. But each builder, I'm sure, has his own way.

With every build I fine tune my personal hierarchy of tasks and it's a very insightful exercise.

Digression.

Being an avid rider, I found similarities between this and motorbike racing. As a beginner one would often ask what the best line is for riding fast through a turn. But there isn't one perfect line, each rider must have his own. His perfect line is the byproduct of his individual skills and preferences, his bike's strengths and weaknesses and how he feels about that specific track. Understanding this is crucial to becoming a good rider.

End of the digression.

Likewise, understanding that I had to arrange tasks according to my perfect line was a turning point for me. This process highlights what my strengths and weaknesses are and which skills I should fine tune. It makes a build easier and more fun. And it's a working style that evolves with me, with new tools and new ideas.

I just thought this could be something for beginners to think about.



Here's the electronics cavity. On this bass we have opted for a more traditional solution than that of the Über-Jay.

The cover counter sunk reveals the Ebony laminate hidden under the first layer. I really like the contrast.

This is the first time I'm using this wood for the body and I find that it requires extra care when cutting and routing as it has a tendency to tear, whereas sanding it is easy.

Only thing is, when freshly cut it smells like rotten fish for a few hours. Have a Camphor Burl scrap handy

Back to the build, I will clean the edges of the cavity with sand paper and scrapers. Then I'll cut the cover from the laminate that I had previously sliced from the back of the body. It should be a prefect grain match.

At this stage I drill for side dots. It's so much easier (for me) to be precise now than with a shaped neck. So, in my hierarchy of things to do first, side dots drilling comes right about now (The funk soul brother. Check it out now etc etc)



The side dots will be glued in much later.

Thank you for reading this far

[reverendrally]

Quick question; why did you decide on such a deep neck pocket?

p.s. Love ya work!