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  #61  
Old 02-06-2013, 12:53 PM
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+1 on automotive paints if they are available in your country.

Now that the white is gone on the body, try the logo in yellow. Might tie in better than the white.
  #62  
Old 02-06-2013, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironfingers View Post
+1 on automotive paints if they are available in your country.

Now that the white is gone on the body, try the logo in yellow. Might tie in better than the white.
Actually I think now the white looks better. I say keep it.

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  #63  
Old 02-07-2013, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Yelo View Post
As per your suggestion...



I like this as it would simplify the paint significantly for me and I feel it still has the same impact as before... although now the white on the headstock doesn't tie together.

Better w/o the white stripe for sure (too busy) - logo is fine as long as the width of the script-line stays in scale to this sketch (no fatter or thinner)
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  #64  
Old 02-10-2013, 02:50 PM
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Making some progress... learning the limits of wet sanding...



This yellow paint has turned out to be quite tough, it takes quite a beating during the wet sanding... heck it laughs at me while I slog away. I'm not complaining, less risk of wearing through.
  #65  
Old 02-11-2013, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Yelo View Post
Making some progress... learning the limits of wet sanding...



This yellow paint has turned out to be quite tough, it takes quite a beating during the wet sanding... heck it laughs at me while I slog away. I'm not complaining, less risk of wearing through.
Looks good, all things considered. As more of an understanding of what you are up against wanting a zingy bright yellow in the future - the brightest yellows you'll ever see are usually one very thin even coat of bright yellow over a bright white base. That yellow, if it's pure (not cut w/white) is almost translucent, so what you are seeing is the bright white reenforcing the yellow brightness from below. To achieve that, the white undercoat needs to be sanded/finished ultra smooth and the yellow is almost like a glaze when sprayed on, usually w/a pro spray rig/booth, followed by clear coats, which could then be final wet-sanded and buffed.

Your bass will rock regardless.
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  #66  
Old 02-11-2013, 10:15 PM
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Thanks JIO,

That was my understanding of yellow as well, hence the white undercoat. I guess this would be where automotive paint would come into it.

Mind you, when I painted my RC Car bodies years ago the yellow worked exactly like that (and that was model paint in rattle cans) ... So I guess this paint I used was never like that.

Either way, this colour is superb! A touch more orange than I wanted... Even a touch more orange than you see in the pics. But it looks great.

The headstock logo isn't quite working out tbh. In the initial design I didn't take into account the truss rod cover and the space taken up by the tuners. So in trying to fit the logo in... Well... It's smaller and doesn't work anymore... I need a new plan now...
  #67  
Old 02-11-2013, 10:17 PM
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Just looking at the pic I posted here of the yellow... Light was bad and it looks almost like is has a green tinge. It's not like that... Let me try capture this yellow better
  #68  
Old 02-12-2013, 05:44 AM
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What an amazing first build. When the thread first started I was all "Wow, that's really cool but not really my personal style" but then as the build progressed I more and more found myself biting my tongue about all of the things *I* would do with it so you've won me over completely. You can tell that you have a graphic design background and your build design really benefits from that.
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  #69  
Old 02-12-2013, 05:59 AM
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I *personnally* preferred the initial yellow on black with white color scheme but no one's asking *me* and for good reason: the bass is yours, not mine, sadly
Nice build, cannot wait for it to be finished
  #70  
Old 02-12-2013, 08:22 AM
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So I placed the pickguards out to see how its looking and damn, I can't wait till this bass is done!!!

My fretboard is looking a little dirty here. On that note, I'd say the hardest thing I'm facing now is trying to get a good edge between the paint on the neck and the fretboard. Trying to get the paint as thin as possible so it doesn't build up too thick... but I think I've got it now.

Now with the clear coat I need to re-mask it all so I can feather that edge out a touch.




I've been doing some research on what I need to do to the ebony fretboard. Just ordered some fret doctor... It's going to take forever to get here, but will be worth it!
  #71  
Old 02-12-2013, 08:33 AM
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Will you be just masking the top of the fretboard and clear coating the sides of the fret board as well?
  #72  
Old 02-12-2013, 08:34 AM
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I would coat the sides...
  #73  
Old 02-12-2013, 09:08 AM
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Is it common to clear right up the sides of the fretboard? It makes sense though now that you mention it!!!
  #74  
Old 02-12-2013, 09:21 AM
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I don't know, but I noticed it on my Epiphone Thunderbird Pro Classic and it is noticable and very nice looking.
  #75  
Old 02-12-2013, 09:25 AM
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All the instruments I have have the fretboard sides coated...
  #76  
Old 02-12-2013, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Yelo View Post
It depends on your personal way of anchoring your fingers (on the pu's or where-ever when playing) but the long narrow pg strip over the pu's would be a perfect place to install a long contoured ebony tug-bar. Just sayin'...
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Last edited by JIO : 03-03-2013 at 12:23 PM.
  #77  
Old 02-19-2013, 08:05 AM
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Just a quick update and some photos...

Got the Logo cut out of vinyl and positioned on the headstock. Something I never took into account on the initial bass design was the truss rod cover so I had to compensate for that...


Went in head first and stuck it down...


Masked it up and sprayed the black... made sure to peel the vinyl off while the paint was dry to the touch but still soft. The black looks a bit rough around the headstock edge, but that's just from the masking. It cleaned up pretty good.


The bigger picture...
  #78  
Old 02-19-2013, 08:18 AM
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looking good!!
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  #79  
Old 02-19-2013, 08:48 AM
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It looks fantastic!
  #80  
Old 02-19-2013, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funnyfingers View Post
Will you be just masking the top of the fretboard and clear coating the sides of the fret board as well?
I always coat up the sides - tape off the top of the FB and work the edges once the finish is done being applied and has cured.

Fantastic build! I cringed a little at the thought of covering up that nice wood, but this color scheme has almost made a painted bass fan out of me. The case you are building has really got my wheels turning too - yikes! Thanks ...
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Last edited by 49sfine : 02-19-2013 at 01:31 PM.
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