3 Wood Challenge: natural red and white neck thru - Page 27

lbridenstine · #**521** 11-20-2012, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HaMMerHeD

I used steel wool on a finishing project once.

Once!

But seriously...3M scotch brite pads, I think the dark grey are around 800 grit. Way better than steel wool.

I've seen those mentioned, that's what I was thinking about getting. Is it something that wouldn't make too much of a mess so maybe I could use it inside during the winter?

Wait, which one of these am I looking for?

http://www.amazon.com/3M-7415NA-Sand...tch+brite+grey

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-BriteTM...ref=pd_cp_hi_1

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ec...&storeId=10051

lbridenstine · #**522** 12-03-2012, 07:24 AM

I sanded the whole bass and got out the majority of the dings/scratches, etc. exept the ones on the fretboard.

I got 4 coats of oil on it, I used a piece of a t-shirt wrapped around cotton balls this time for applying the oil instead of coffee filters. It worked a lot better at getting thin coats on there and it seemed a lot quicker too. I'm going to do another day or two of a few coats each, then a final coat. Hopefully that will be enough to protect the red cedar better. I skipped the Sealer & Filler this time and just used the normal Tru-Oil finish.

I realized a few minutes ago that I completely forgot to cover anything with painters tape before I started this... I managed to get the stripped and broken off screws out of the bridge. I couldn't get the broken off one for the truss rod cover, so I just filed it down flat and assume that it will be covered up from the new cover. One of the pickup screws is stripped and I couldn't get that out. I couldn't get the knobs off either even though they were easy to get on and off when I first put them on... So, I'm having to work around the pickup and knobs, I should probably tape those.

I got some "between coats" Scotch Brite pads and I had to order some of the fine finishing pads, I'm hoping they'll get here during the week. I guess the between coats ones are equivilant to 00 steel wool. I'm not sure about the fine ones.

The picture was taken on my phone as I was leaving for work, so it's not great. I'm sure I'll take some better ones after more coats.

jmorbita · #**523** 12-03-2012, 07:30 AM

Looking good!

lbridenstine · #**524** 12-03-2012, 07:33 AM

I forgot to mention, I played this at a show a couple weeks ago and everything went good.

I'm thinking about doing a video, but don't know what to play. I'm no good at improv. Any song suggestions?

jmorbita · #**525** 12-03-2012, 07:36 AM

Play Free Bird!!!!!!!

pilotjones · #**526** 12-03-2012, 03:29 PM

Whipping post!

Really, anything you're comfortable playing.

lbridenstine · #**527** 12-03-2012, 08:06 PM

Here it is with 6 coats. I only did 2 today because it was misty out and I didn't know if it would cure good.

There's fret dust embedded in the maple on the fretboard from when I leveled my frets even though I covered the board with tape... I haven't been able to get it out. It's kinda hard to see in the pictures, but I can see a lot of it in person.

This area turned grey and I couldn't get it out. I'm not sure if that's from the grey abrasive pad or if it's the oil getting gunked up or what.

The Scotch Brite between coats pad worked SO MUCH better and faster than steel wool. I went over the whole bass in like 45 minutes. It probably would have been faster if I didn't have to work around the pickup and knobs... and frets.

I'll try to figure out what to play in the video. I obviously have to wait until I get the finish done anyway.

Jeff Mills · #**528** 12-03-2012, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lbridenstine

I tried the truss rod in a vice and it worked fine.

Is this something I need to worry about? It seems like a strong hold and I tried lifting it all up from the top piece (this is a heavy chunk of wood. 48" x 5 3/4" x 3.5" of maple and walnut) and didn't have any issues. Does it seem like something I could just fill? From the side, it looks like some of the gaps are only at the far sides and I need to level it all anyway, but that bottom piece seems like a big gap.

First picture is a portion of the front, second is of the side.

I made this mistake only once - yellow glue is subject to glue creep (meaning your boards will move around even after the glue dries) and you will see and feel your seams even after it's finished. Good old white or hide glue is the way to go.

lbridenstine · #**529** 12-04-2012, 07:53 PM

9 coats now! I'm going to probably do 2-4 more tomorrow, then the last 1 on Thursday. I'll see about working on the pickup ring and truss rod cover this weekend.

I was getting grey areas again when I was going over it with the Scotch Brite pad and I tried steel wool on it and it got all of the new stuff and most of yesterday's stuff out. Go figure. I'm glad I tried it though. I've noticed that it's only turning grey around knots.

I really love the way the walnut and ash look all shiny and it's tempting me to leave it that way, but I know how much better I looked how it looked and felt when it was a satin finish before. I'm kind of hoping the extra coats of oil will give me a happy medium. I think I'll like it either way though.

lbridenstine · #**530** 12-04-2012, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff Mills

I made this mistake only once - yellow glue is subject to glue creep (meaning your boards will move around even after the glue dries) and you will see and feel your seams even after it's finished. Good old white or hide glue is the way to go.

Hmm, I didn't know that. I've been using 2x4s on their sides on each side of the wood I'm clamping and it's all gone a lot better since I started doing that.

HaMMerHeD · #**531** 12-04-2012, 08:48 PM

All glue is subject to creep, even hide glue, vinyl glue (white), and epoxy. Also, Titebond is a PVA glue, just like "white glue".

The trick with clamping is to apply even pressure over the entire clamping surface. Using clamping cauls (such as the 2x4s you are using) is an effective way to do that.

Dave Higham · #**532** 12-05-2012, 12:32 AM

I feel my pedantic streak rising to the surface. On some forums, people would get their virtual knuckles rapped for spreading the sort of misinformation I often see on this one. Especially when it concerns giving advice to debutants.

In the world of acoustic instrument luthery, where it’s much more important (think of glued-on bridges under string tension), it is accepted that all glues do not creep.

Hot hide glue (and fish glue) do not creep. Liquid hide glues (Titebond, Old Brown Glue, etc.) are not recommended.

‘White’ glue and ‘yellow’ glue doesn’t mean anything.

Titebond Original (red bottle) is accepted as not being subject to creep. Titebond II and III are not recommended. Titebond Original is not a PVA it’s an aliphatic resin, and mine is yellow when it’s dry.

Highly respected luthiers of acoustic instruments use other glues such as cyanoacrylate (Krazy glue), epoxy resin and even polyurethane (Gorilla) but for very specific purposes.

I suspect some people will disagree with me, but that’s their problem.

HaMMerHeD · #**533** 12-05-2012, 06:10 AM

Sorry, I meant Titebond II is a PVA.

But as I myself have made repairs to very old acoustic instruments constructed using hide glue, I can tell you with certainty that they definitely do creep. I suspect you will disagree with me, but that is your problem.

pilotjones · #**534** 12-05-2012, 06:58 AM

Hide glue displaying creepis an eye-opener to me, since "everyone" always says that it's the one glue that doesn't.

Ken Smith uses titebond II, so I wouldn't count that out. As far as I know his build reputation is stellar.

HaMMerHeD · #**535** 12-05-2012, 07:11 AM

Well, I think it's important to remember that not all glues are created equally, and hide glues being an organic product, they are most definitely not exempt. It's possible that there may have been some impropriety in the construction and storage of those instruments, but whatever the cause, there was definitely some creeping going on, and it was definitely hide glue.

It is my opinion that assuming that something is accurate because someone of the previous generation says it is true is a mistake. A lot of very bad ideas have been perpetuated that way. Experience and observation trump tradition every time, in my opinion.

Smilodon · #**536** 12-05-2012, 08:00 AM

For the record, made a table a while ago. The glue in the table top was "white glue" (Normal Casco indoor wood glue) and that suffers a bit from creeping. That's why I didn't want to use it for building my bass. Franklin claim that Original Titebond doesn't creep. (Not that one should rely solely on manufacturers claims, though..)

suraj · #**537** 12-05-2012, 09:01 AM

The bass looks great..!! did you try vacuuming the fret dust out of the fretboard ?

lbridenstine · #**538** 12-05-2012, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by suraj

The bass looks great..!! did you try vacuuming the fret dust out of the fretboard ?

Thanks! And yeah, I tried that, I tried steel wool, I tried a Scotch Brite pad, and I tried a tack cloth. It's embedded in there somehow.

My fretboard has such good potential to look really great, but it's just taking a beating. I think it still looks good from a few feet away though, I just always see it close up.

suraj · #**539** 12-05-2012, 09:35 AM

you could try blowing compressed air on it, but I'd imagine that to be very tedious, if it works that is..!!

lbridenstine · #**540** 12-05-2012, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by suraj

you could try blowing compressed air on it, but I'd imagine that to be very tedious, if it works that is..!!

I've been putting more coats of oil over it while I do the rest of my bass since I couldn't get it out, so I think it's probably there for good now. :-/

I can't wait to do the fretboard on the guitar I'm starting. Not maple and dots instead of blocks. It should be way easier and turn out better. Although, I'm glad I went with what I did for this one. Especially those wooden inlays.