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  #1  
Old 04-28-2010, 06:32 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: England
30" Scale Double Action Truss Rod Installation Help

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Hi,
No doubt theres a thread that covers this some where, but I have searched and cant find much that covers it directly.

I will be making my first neck soon (just have my body cut so far) and was hoping someone could help me with a bit of confusion I have over the neck. Mainly, what dictates the length of the neck the rod runs through?

So, basically in my case what length rod for a 30" scale neck? I was looking at a 20" I have found, is that a good idea? If so how close to the heel should it be installed? As the fretboard is around 21" (correct me if I'm wrong) should it be placed very close to the heel, to allow the nut to be flush with the hole, or a certain distance in from the adjustment hole?

Also, am I right in thinking a double action rod just needs a level flat rout? Rather than one with different depths at different points.

One last but minor point just to make sure, should a double action rod be completely submerged in the rout slot, or should it be a little higher?

I'm very early on in the learning curve, so would appreciate any help, and sorry if my questions seem a little basic! Thank you
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  #2  
Old 04-28-2010, 09:56 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
While there are some more experienced guys on TB that could teach me a few things on this subject-- here is what my experience has tought me.

Mainly, what dictates the length of the neck the rod runs through?
Of course the length of rods available to you (unless you make or mod your own) vs. your neck length. Headstock or body end access? Length of neck that is in the neck pocket, set neck area, or within body wings for a neck thru. Bolt patterns for bolt ons.


So, basically in my case what length rod for a 30" scale neck? I was looking at a 20" I have found, is that a good idea? If so how close to the heel should it be installed? As the fretboard is around 21" (correct me if I'm wrong) should it be placed very close to the heel, to allow the nut to be flush with the hole, or a certain distance in from the adjustment hole?
Depends... do you want to have access to the truss rod on the headstock end (even if headless) or on the body end?
Remember that the majority of string induced forward bow will occur in approximately the middle of a neck. So you don't need to really have it run end to end, but it is nice to have most of the neck "covered" in this respect. I have been biasing my truss rods toward the headstock end (even on my headless basses). It gives me truss rod access at the head stock end. The truss rods I use extend to just into the neck pocket area of the neck, I wouldn't want to much neck unsupported by a truss in that area. OTOH- it is the widest/thickest part of a neck.
20" should work fine for your 21" neck. Just make sure it will not be in the way of your NECK BOLTS!



Also, am I right in thinking a double action rod just needs a level flat rout? Rather than one with different depths at different points.
Yes.

One last but minor point just to make sure, should a double action rod be completely submerged in the rout slot, or should it be a little higher?
Flush- or perhaps a hair lower- then siliconed to compensate for the slack, and prevent rattling truss rods.
  #3  
Old 04-29-2010, 06:03 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: England
Thank you very much, that helped a lot! I would definitely prefer access at the headstock.

The bass I'm making is a Telecaster bass, except with a "real ()" Tele body (like the guitar, rather than the bass one) so it will be a Tele style neck I'm making. Although there will be a few differences like the double action rod, to name one.

Any other help, things to watch out for, or differences of opinion would also be greatly appreciated.
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  #4  
Old 04-30-2010, 05:46 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: England
Anyone have any tips to add?

I just ordered the 20" truss rod .
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