35" 5 String Fretted

headlikeahole · #1 08-02-2011, 09:09 AM

I decided it was time to start another build thread. I recently was given a pretty large 3" thick solid mahogany counter top. Originally I thought it was solid genuine mahogany but turns out only a 1/4 inch on the bottom where it isnt stained is actually genuine. So not as huge of a score as I originally thought but for free who cares.

This Bass will be getting Nordstrand Big Singles and a Nordstrand 3 band preamp with volume (pull passive), blend, tone, push pull frequency selector on mid, and treble/bass stack

I will have a drawing up soon.

rick0link · #2 08-03-2011, 04:59 AM

subbed! this should be good

headlikeahole · #3 08-03-2011, 09:45 AM

This morning I threw together a quick drawing. Had to go with real wide string spacing to allow the strings to go over the poles. 1/2" at the nut and 3/4" at the bridge. I recently put these same pickups except 4 string in one of my basses and they sound amazing. Also with the push pull pots I wont be able to go nearly as thin as normal this bass will need to be in the 1 3/4" thick range just to comfortably fit all the electronics.

It will resemble the shape of this 5 string I recently finished.

So now its onto Step 2 - Making the Neck - This for sure is going neck through to change it up a little from my normal set neck style.

I have already made the neck scale template on the milling machine for cutting the fret slots on the table saw. I just used an old ruler I found in my parents basement like 10 years ago.

Expect to start seeing some dust shots in the AM.

LowEndMan2112 · #4 08-03-2011, 09:49 AM

Big singles + wicked body shape + mahogany = subbed

PastorofMuppets · #5 08-03-2011, 09:59 AM

Im in. I wanna see this beauty. I love the 35" scale.

Jason_A · #6 08-03-2011, 01:34 PM

Looking forward to seeing this one come together. Just curious why the choice for such wide spacing at the nut (not that it's outrageous, but a little wider than normal... assuming it's somewhere in the 2.25" range)?

I love the Big Singles! I had them in a couple of basses, and actually preferred them run passive, although that was with a Bart pre that I felt "colored" the sound of the pickups at all times. My guess is that the Nord pre is a little more transparent - the Big Singles have enough "character" all on their own

headlikeahole · #7 08-04-2011, 07:06 AM

The spacing at the nut I'm not a big fan of either. I sort of had to do that to keep the strings right down the middle of the pickup poles. I could probably make it slightly tighter maybe shave a 1/4 off the total thickness. We shall see.

Jason_A · #8 08-04-2011, 08:10 AM

The basses I had the Big Singles on both had a nut width around 1-7/8" - 1-15/16". I thought the strings lined up pretty well over the neck pickup. I never measured the spacing of the pole pieces, but I do know that the neck pickup has tighter spacing than the bridge pickup. From a functional standpoint, the pickups have a pretty large magnetic aperature with the way the pole pieces are set up, so even if they aren't dead center, you'll still get adequate output/string balance. However, I can understand wanting to have them aligned from an aesthetic standpoint. Personally, I think I'd sacrifice aesthetics slightly for a more comfortable nut width, but that's just me.

headlikeahole · #9 08-04-2011, 10:24 AM

yeah when I tighten up the spacing I can get the width down to just under 2". However like you said the neck pickup has a tighter spacing on the poles but it doesn't line up perfectly unless I have around 1/2" spacing at the nut. I'll probably spend the rest of the day working on something else and think on it for a few hours.

headlikeahole · #10 08-05-2011, 05:40 PM

I managed to tighten the spacing slightly but not a whole lot. It is more than just aesthetics. I know the pickup is designed for the string to go right between the two offset poles. Also I'm not looking to get adequate output I'm looking for every last bit of output the pickup can possibly give. If I'm going to drastically change the spacing I would need to go with a different pickup. I do appreciate the input tho you had me thinking

pushifier · #11 08-08-2011, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by headlikeahole

It will resemble the shape of this 5 string I recently finished.

Beautifull bass this is! Nice design

headlikeahole · #12 08-16-2011, 06:42 PM

I was finally able to get this started yesterday. I sorted out the drawing problem was just basic idiocy on my part. 3/8 - 3/4 nut and bridge is what I ended up going with.

I started off with a 4" wide 3/4" thick piece of Cherry. I cant remember the exact length 46ish we'll say.

I got it all marked out for nut, bridge and truss rod.

This is how I did the truss rod. Basically I clamp the cherry down to the edge of the mdf then I set the aluminum beam to put the router bit right in the center of the neck.

Next I cut the excess from the back of the neck on the bandsaw. I left around 7/8" then cleaned it up on the bridgeport ended up with around 3/4. I planed the piece I cut out down to 5/8" I'll use part of this for the headstock.

Next up I have my scarf joint jig in two pieces so I can set it up for any size neck. To do this you need a wider router base so I outfitted my router with this cutting edge pine base using double sided tape.

Every time I do this I think to myself this is an abomination but every time it works.

For the headstock I predrilled and used nails to hold the angle perfect during the clamping. Since I keep the tape of the neck straight through the body theres plenty of extra space up by the neck. After the glue is dry I just pull the nails out with a pair of plyers.

Next I cut out the body wings from this piece of african mahogany. I tried a couple different layouts with my templates and this seemed to be the best way to go.

I cut out the wings on the bandsaw and then cleaned up the edges on the spindal sander. I normally use the router and the templates but the bit I had was pretty beat.

Onto the control cavity. Bridgeport makes pretty quick work of this. Unfortunately somehow I got an action shot and no finished shot. I leave 3/16 for the cover.

Next I will make the cover and just get that right out of the way. Then I'll put the fretboard on. I'm not sure what I will use right now. I had planned to use maple but maybe this needs a darker fretboard. what do you think?

headlikeahole · #13 08-19-2011, 09:17 AM

Yesterday I made some more solid progress on this build. About 15 hours in at this point and by the end of today I hope to have the whole thing together ready for shaping.

Once the fretboard was glued on I started in on slotting the board. I do my frets exactly the same as the man in this video. Only difference is I make the slotted ruler on the milling machine.
Cutting Fret Slots - YouTube

After that I cut the fret markers on the milling machine and installed them. I went with purple heart and then wenge on the octaves. I have pictures of this process but the battery died on the camera I took them on I will post later today or tomorrow.

After this I was ready to taper the neck. I just used an aluminum straight edge and a router bit with a bearing on the top. Makes quick work of this. Finally its starting to look like a bass.

Since the neck is only 7/8" thick all the way down I needed to add something. I went with a piece of maple 7/8". To get everything ready for glue I use this.

This is where it is now waiting on some glue to dry then the wings go on. At this rate I could be test driving this thing by Monday.

TomA1234 · #14 08-19-2011, 09:33 AM

I always enjoy your builds, especially the multi wood ones (like your rainbow bass).
Looking forward to seeing the outcome of this.

headlikeahole · #15 08-19-2011, 10:17 AM

Thank You Tom I appreciate it. I also especially enjoy the multiwood builds but I thought it might be nice to do something pretty basic for a change.

headlikeahole · #16 08-19-2011, 03:41 PM

Got right back to work today. I started by trimming back the maple I had glued on. Since the neck has already been tapered this is fairly quick and easy.

Router with bearing on the bottom using the cherry neck as a guide. notice first that I took off my regular glasses and put on safety glasses. I suggest you do the same. I've had chunks come off and fly past my face. It can happen put on your safety glasses. Secondly does this count for a hair shot?

After this I got the edges all ready for joining and glued the right wing on.

headlikeahole · #17 08-20-2011, 06:50 PM

aaand the other wing went on pretty easy.

Tomorrow route some pickup cavities and then its time for some shaping.

pushifier · #18 08-21-2011, 01:04 AM

Looking good and going fast!

headlikeahole · #19 08-25-2011, 11:38 PM

It has been moving right along. Spent tonight working on some shaping. I do all the shaping with some pretty basic hand tools. Microplane, Chisel and some files.

Few more hours and I'll be sanding.

After awhile I couldn't shape anymore I took the bass over to the milling machine and machined the pickup cavities. Something that probably should have been done before shaping at all.

You can't ask for a better fit than that

I also drilled the holes for the strings to go through the body. The holes are oversized at 3/8" to fit some bushings I will make. Well that's it for now.

headlikeahole · #20 09-02-2011, 02:16 PM

So this is where I'm at with this right now. Nothing to crazy just did a bunch of shaping. Sanding my heart out this weekend. I would be making string anchors and bridge saddles but power has been off at the shop for two days. Bringing in the 3 phase so we don't have to use a converter anymore.