4-String scroll CM#1 for Chris.gotfunk

erikbojerik · #1 01-28-2008, 10:59 AM

OK, this is a scroll 4-banger for Chris. It has a couple of cool unique features that I'll highlight as the build progresses, and how I go about making them happen.

Walnut body w/ flame maple stringers
EMG 35DC with wenge pickup surround & wenge control plate
Hipshot A 0.750" brass (black)
bolt-on 3-pc laminated rock maple neck, CF rods
wenge headstock overlay & backstrap
quartersawn wenge fingerboard, 24+ frets, zero fret
double-action truss rod w/ access underneath end of fingerboard
Hipshot ultralights (black)
Tru Oil finish
Straplocs (black)

Chris wants a pretty low string profile above the body, so it will end up as a bit of a carve-top thinning slightly toward the body edge. I like this solution better than routing a recess for just the bridge.

Here's a shot of the mock-up (blueprint really) from CAD:

And here's a shot of my lumber selection:

erikbojerik · #2 01-28-2008, 11:04 AM

Wood selection is probably one of the most important steps right off the bat. We didn't want to go crazy with any figured walnut on this one, so I found a nice dark flatsawn piece with some interesting grain.

For the laminated neck I like to find flat-sawn 4/4 stock, cut the lams, then flip them 90° to yield quartered lams. So the lams will come from the left side of the maple piece.

The last bit on the right is some perfectly quartered wenge (view is of the flat-sawn edge).

erikbojerik · #3 01-28-2008, 11:16 AM

After rough-sawing, the neck lams are first planed flat on one quartered face using a power jointer, then squared on one flat-sawn face using the same. This yields a perfect 90° angle whose sides yield a flat register for the thickness sander.

After truing up in the 16-32 they're ready for gluing in my glue press, which amounts to a pair of 2" aluminum angles clamped shut with 8 screw-type bar clamps. Here's a shot of it with a different neck in the press. The clamps are the ends keep all the lams clamped down to a flat piece of MDF underneath the press (can't see it from this shot), so that the lams don't float around while squeezing the angles shut.

IMO it's really important to have the lams flat and true (all 90° angles) at this stage.

erikbojerik · #4 01-28-2008, 11:20 AM

Body lams are first thickness planed, then jointed true on the glue edges. Then the whole works is clamped together using big 36" Jet bar clamps.

scottyd · #5 01-28-2008, 11:24 AM

Hey we got the same jointer

How do you like it? Another Scroll build AWESOME! If this turns out anything like bass you won guitar of the month with its going to be sweet.

wilser · #6 01-28-2008, 11:27 AM

nice! finally get to see some of your work!

chris.gotfunk · #7 01-28-2008, 12:19 PM

Erik,
I am soo stoked for this build!!!

Thanks for taking on the project and working with me. I cannot wait to see the progress.
Peace,
Chris

**j-raj** · #8 01-28-2008, 06:10 PM

very cool build thread.

bassman275 · #9 01-29-2008, 05:26 PM

I love Scrolls!Subscribed...

Congrats,Chris!

chris.gotfunk · #10 01-30-2008, 06:51 AM

Thank you. As you can tell, I am pretty excited!!!!

contakt321 · #11 01-30-2008, 07:45 AM

Love the 70's/80's CT influence on this - can't wait to see how it turns out!

erikbojerik · #12 01-30-2008, 06:02 PM

A little more work done...body blank is skimmed down to thickness and ready for routing the neck pocket (after I get the body and neck templates done...hehehe

).

erikbojerik · #13 01-30-2008, 06:10 PM

Here's how I'm doing my straight fingerboard radius these days. First the nicely quartered wenge FB blank is thickness sanded a hair on the thick side of final spec...talking 0.01 or so. Then it is double-stick taped to the trusty (but straight and true) length of black limba (not neck-worthy due to a well-placed knot..).

Now rotate 90° and walk it over to the router table...

...where there's a fence set up flush on the bearing of the oh-so-special router bit...the 10" radius bit!!

Jonsbasses · #14 01-30-2008, 06:21 PM

Good to see those million dollar radius bits going to good use. I'm looking forward to seeing more work done, it's nice seeing pricey power tools put to work. Once I sell my grizzly drum sander I plan on going for a Performax or Jet 16-32 drum sander. Being able to thickness whole body blanks will save a lot of time!

codyAllen191 · #15 01-30-2008, 07:55 PM

how much would one of those bits cost?

if you dont mind...

waseok · #16 01-30-2008, 11:31 PM

wow, what a smart way to make a radiused fretboard!

erikbojerik · #17 01-31-2008, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codyAllen191

how much would one of those bits cost?
if you dont mind...

$200 is what it cost me. It was done in-house in the machine shop at the place where I work, the guy made them after hours. I got various quotes from other outside companies that ranged from $250 to $350 each.

codyAllen191 · #18 01-31-2008, 04:41 PM

whoa, well i guess if i ever get to do alot of neck radiusing ill have to find a place that can make em....its a great idea.

Rudyboy98 · #19 01-31-2008, 11:20 PM

Interesting design. Never seen anything like it. It's pretty unique!

Good luck on the build!

Congrats, Chris! Look forward to seeing the end product!

Rock on!

R...

codyAllen191 · #20 02-01-2008, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rudyboy98

Interesting design. Never seen anything like it. It's pretty unique!

Good luck on the build!

Congrats, Chris! Look forward to seeing the end product!

Rock on!

R...

well, its not completely original, IMO its heavily inspired by Les Claypool's main 4 string.....or a 70s CT......but nontheless and amazing build