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  #21  
Old 07-26-2012, 08:29 AM
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I don't know how I missed this thread. Fantastic work so far. And very inspirational since i was planning on doing something similar myself.

I'm especially looking forward to seeing how you solve the saddle piece/intonation adjustment. I haven't figured out how to do that yet.
  #22  
Old 07-26-2012, 09:19 AM
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  #23  
Old 07-26-2012, 09:28 AM
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subbed. fantastic work.
  #24  
Old 07-26-2012, 09:39 AM
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A-MAZ-ING. Well done, it looks incredible.
  #25  
Old 07-26-2012, 09:48 AM
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Elle va être vraiment belle!
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  #26  
Old 07-26-2012, 10:42 AM
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Thanks guys (et merci Yvon, c'est très gentil).
A bientôt.
  #27  
Old 07-26-2012, 10:52 AM
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This is amazing
  #28  
Old 07-26-2012, 11:08 AM
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Oooh! Another build thread to feed my addiction! Boom, subbed.
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  #29  
Old 07-26-2012, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smilodon View Post
I'm especially looking forward to seeing how you solve the saddle piece/intonation adjustment. I haven't figured out how to do that yet.
If you look at his drawing in the first post, there's a separate bridge where the intonation will happen--he's only made the tuners so far, it appears.

BYOOOTIFUL work, by the way. I'm really GASsing for a small metalworking mill, and you are not helping
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  #30  
Old 07-26-2012, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beauchene Implements View Post
If you look at his drawing in the first post, there's a separate bridge where the intonation will happen--he's only made the tuners so far, it appears.

BYOOOTIFUL work, by the way. I'm really GASsing for a small metalworking mill, and you are not helping
I know. My system must also be two part since the tuning mechanism will be inside the body. That's why I'm wondering how he will make the other half.

I'm also seriously GASing for a mill and a lathe. No money nor space for neither...
  #31  
Old 07-26-2012, 12:51 PM
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Wow, that bridge is too kool for school
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  #32  
Old 07-26-2012, 02:01 PM
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I wish I had your skills...
Nice tuning bridge. I am trying to make one for my Solitare project, but have gone a nother route, but have learned a lot from you. Thanks! I wish I could get the hold of the knobs you got. But I'll manage with the one I got for now.

Will follow his thread!

Cheers
Tore, Norway
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  #33  
Old 07-27-2012, 02:04 AM
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apart from your awesome work, I dig your design. Its gonna be quite a looker, and seeing your skills, quite a player too
  #34  
Old 07-27-2012, 02:25 AM
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Super cool!
  #35  
Old 07-27-2012, 02:34 AM
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Wow! Amazing skills.
  #36  
Old 07-27-2012, 02:36 AM
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Looking good so far, and I'm interested in the faux headstock too.
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  #37  
Old 07-27-2012, 03:04 AM
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Once again, thank you all for your kind words. The bridge will also be an ebony block with saddles from cheap individual bridges (ABM look-alikes) but I'll show that when I get to it.

I'm pretty sure Axesrus would send you the knobs Tore. If they sent them to France they should send them to Norway. they are the 14th item from the bottom of this page.

http://www.axesrus.com/axenob.htm#Knobs
  #38  
Old 07-27-2012, 03:13 AM
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Amazing work. Will definately be following this one.
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  #39  
Old 08-01-2012, 04:53 AM
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How did you figure out how much travel the tuners needed?

My current design have 20mm travel (Actually it's more like 35mm travel, but the string anchors is going to be completely hidden.)

I have a suspicion that 20mm is way more than I actually need.
  #40  
Old 08-01-2012, 09:35 AM
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I have a Hohner B2A (Steinberger copy) so I measured that.

The amount of travel needed to tune the E string up to pitch is 3mm and for the G string it's 3.5mm. That's from where you can put the ball end into the hole in the string anchor by just pulling on the string a little, to fully tuned. Not much is it?!

On the Hohner, only the G string anchor is completely covered when tuned, and at that point it has another 6.5mm of possible travel before it bottoms out. The other anchors stick out progressively more when tuned but these are double ball-ended strings so this could vary with different makes of string.

I'll be using normal strings so there'll be a bit of trial and error involved when stringing up for the first time but, of course, I'll be trying to get all the anchors in the same position when up to pitch.

As you can see from the drawing, I only have 1.5mm of thread engaged when the anchor hole is fully exposed, but that's just to get the ball-end in there. When the anchor is completely hidden I have 10mm of thread engaged and still have 11mm of possible travel if required (which I'm sure it won't be).

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