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  #1  
Old 10-17-2006, 05:48 PM
Greg Johnsen's Avatar
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I apologize for my schitzo idea changes, but I think I finally landed on one that will make me happy, and I should be able to stick with this because I want to go all out on it.

Anyways, I've been making more money lately, and will soon be getting $200-300 in less than a month, so I've decided to put that money towards body wood, so I can go ahead and start this build project!

I've figured out, that since I want to make a bass for me first, and I want it to be a keeper, and something I should love for a long time, why not spend the money, and get exactly what I want? Therefore, I'm gonna be spending exactly what I need to to be able to build this, and the good this is, no bills to pay.

Because I can only get so much money over a certain amount of time (I usually make 100 bucks or so a month babysitting), I will be buying what I can, when I can, which means I'll get the body wood first, because those require the most work, and will give me time to save up for the neck wood..and so on.

Which brings me onto my next point, the specs.
They aren't full specs because I haven't decided on everything yet, the thing I need to figure out most, is the top and back wood (I want them matching, because I like that look better). I've been lookin at spalted rosewood, which is really nice looking, and would match this bass well, but I can't find a piece big enough to book match again for the back.

Specs:
Top- TBA
Core- Mahogany
Accent veneers- TBA (if there even will be)
Neck woods- Flame maple, walnut, and purpleheart (5 piece with 2 accent stringers)
Fingerboard- Dyed macassar, or gaboon ebony
Headstock Veneer- Same as top
Pickups- Bartolini G6's, with wood covers
Preamp- Aguilar OBP-3, pre-wired
Bridge- ETS MK-III, angled, satin gold
Tuners- Sperzel locking, satin gold
Knobs- Matching wood knobs
Truss rod- Wheel, out of the back of the headstock
Strap locks- ETS strap locks, satin gold
Chambered
Hidden XLR Output
Locking jack


I'm happy with what I have so far, and I doubt I'll change my mind again, I just need to find out what those TBA's will turn out to be.

If you have any suggestions, or would like to give me any advice, or criticism, then I would love to hear from you.

Greg

EDIT: I'll put up a scan of the design tomorrow for you guys to rip apart
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Last edited by Greg Johnsen : 10-26-2006 at 08:32 PM.
  #2  
Old 10-17-2006, 06:51 PM
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a wheel on the back of the headstock might not be the best truss idea, it seems like it would be awfully easy to hit and spin
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  #3  
Old 10-17-2006, 07:41 PM
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Well, it'll be covered by a trussrod cover, and have you tried to turn one of these? Ypu have to put a screw driver in there and use the leverage to move it, it's not goin anywhere without the use of a tool, so that's not really something I'm concerned about.

Greg
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  #4  
Old 10-17-2006, 07:43 PM
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ok, I was picturring a wheel that protruded from the headstock
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  #5  
Old 10-17-2006, 08:06 PM
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Well I hate to be a critic...but...I think you may be jumping in a little too far on the deep end for your first build. I only say this becase I was in your shoes not too long ago. I wanted to build a bass that had all the frills just like you do. 5 piece neck, top and back woods, accents, chambering, headstock veneer, active pre, XLR out(?), single cut, etc. All this stuff is going to add alot of complexity to your project. After I considered all this I decided to tone things down a bit. I ended up building a bass with a simple two piece body, 1 piece neck, bolt on, passive plain jane fretless. And in the end I was REALLY glad that I did. Trust me, building a simple bass is challenging enough for anyone. You don't have to build your dream bass the first time around, besides your going to learn so much this time around that your not going to be able to wait to start another one. I really don't want to burst your bubble, but I would strongly consider simplifying your first build as much as possible.

Another thing, have you actually priced all this out including shipping, taxes, and all the small things like finish, screws, shielding, etc. I certainly haven't taken time to look up prices on all that stuff but a ball park estimate just from looking at that list is that your approaching $1000 in parts/wood possibly even more. That's a serious hit for someone making $100 a month, bills or not. And if your first build doesn't turn out quite how you expected do you really want to have $1k or more sunk into it? One more thing is that it's going alot easier to do this if you have parts hand to double check your layout, routing, fit, etc. That's not going to be possible if your stringing this project along on $100 a month.

I really don't mean to discourage you. I really want to see you build a great bass. I just think that a simpler project would be advisable for your first build. I have seen some guys around here do amazing, complex things on their first build and have it turn out great, but I would hate to see you get in over your head and get frustrated when you could be having a lot of fun and learning just as much on a more basic project.

(P.S. If you do go through with this the whole truss rod idea is risky, the headstock joint area is the weakest point on a bass, putting a bigger whole than necessary there might not be a good idea.)
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Last edited by paintandsk8 : 10-17-2006 at 08:09 PM.
  #6  
Old 10-17-2006, 08:22 PM
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thanks alot paint, I really appreciate your ideas, but I have something that alot of first time builders don't have. I'll be taking classes on all of the tools I'll need to use for building this, and I have an amazing craftsman 3 houses down from me, who said would be more than happy to help me out, and he has more than 30 years of experience, and will be there to help me with every step (he's also an amazing finisher, which is good for me).

As for the fitting and everything of parts, I plan on getting all the measurements of the parts, double checking, triple checking, then making my cuts/routes. Plus, before I do anything on this bass, I'll have multiple hours of wroking with each tool until I get comfortable, and I'm going to practice everything I need to on practice wood so I can be confident of myself before cutting into that 500 dollars worth of wood.

My hidden XLR idea will be like putting an extra jack in the side of the body, but I'll cut a square piece out from the side, route what I need to for the XLR output, solder all that in, but I'll drill a hole or 2 in both the square piece I cut out and the wood surrounding the XLR, then I'll put a magnet in each hole (glued in with the proper poles in the right direction) and I'll make a little dip in the sqaure piece to act as a small handle to take out the cover, and then there's the XLR. I'm not sure if that's been done before, but I hope not.

Thanks again.

Greg
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  #7  
Old 10-25-2006, 08:20 PM
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Sorry it's taking me so long to get a scan of the bass up, but I've been working on new ideas for it, and I drew up a to-scale drawing today on graph paper (woot, go math and english!). I'll be scanning that...tomorrow probably, and if not this weekend (away game, so I won't have time).

Anyways, because I plan to chamber this bass anyway, I thoght of doing sound holes in the chambered part of the single cut (the area just above the neck), but it'll be drozd-ish, so I'm going to gut out 4 different shapes that seem to fit the bass nicely, and will also cut down on weight.

I want to make an acrylic template for these so it's easier to route, and so that I don't slip, but I want to know how much easier it would actually be to do that...

Also, where can I get MDF so I can start with a template and actully show you guys some beef, and not just ideas.

Would it be a bad idea to do a walnut accent layer between the myrtle and the mahogany? I don't know if it'll smooth over like the way I want it to so the transition looks great, but I could be totally wrong. I want to do a top and back that are around 1/4", and then the accent layer would be 1/8" between the core, top and back. Bad idea, or should I keep it?

Any dissaprovals of my XLR idea?

Thanks,

Greg
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  #8  
Old 10-25-2006, 10:04 PM
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you can get sheets of mdf at the homey depot!
they are 4'x8' though so bring a truck or the super smart guys at the depot can rip it for you ( I think)
  #9  
Old 10-25-2006, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tribal3140
you can get sheets of mdf at the homey depot!
they are 4'x8' though so bring a truck or the super smart guys at the depot can rip it for you ( I think)
You can usually get 4' x 4' and 2' x 4' there too (at least the one near me has this). The smaller sheets are almost as much as just buying a full sheet though. The Home Depot here will also rip the wood for free.
  #10  
Old 10-26-2006, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff St. Germaine
You can usually get 4' x 4' and 2' x 4' there too (at least the one near me has this). The smaller sheets are almost as much as just buying a full sheet though. The Home Depot here will also rip the wood for free.
yeah, they call those handy boards or something similar. They're usually in the same isle as the 4'x8'
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  #11  
Old 10-26-2006, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintandsk8
Well I hate to be a critic...but...I think you may be jumping in a little too far on the deep end for your first build.
I guess the key word here is patience!!!

I'm planning my first proyect and it's close to this one but with no back. It's not chambered either. I know myself and if a build something "easy" I won't even look at it after the second day and probably throw it away or give it to somebody else. As Teh I want this bass to stay with me a long time and I mean a LONG TIME and that is why my first bass is getting too difficult as a first proyect (and with each thread I read here it gets more and more difficult ...I don't even want to look any thread anymore!!! ).

Teh I would say to you GO FOR IT!!!! but have in mind the word PATIENCE. Don't rush even when you want to. Here are some GREAT GREAT GREAT builders that can build a bass that reachs perfection in a month but don't try to do this. Take every step slowly.
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Last edited by eleonn : 10-26-2006 at 07:54 AM.
  #12  
Old 11-02-2006, 08:15 PM
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ok, so I have a few things figured out now...and hopefully by next week I can have this thing rolling.

I have decided on the top wood, the neck woods, and the accent layers.

Todd's been a great and very helpful guy, and he's given me very nice quote....which is nice because I need to get the best deals as possible, seeing that I have no steady income...

Anyways, I plan on using quilt redwood for the top and back, which is a wood I've always liked, and I see fitting this bass very nicely. For the accent layers between the top and core, and back and core, I'll be using 1/8" flame maple, which should look really nice with the redwood top and back.

As for the neck woods, I'm gonna use flame maple for the outer layer to contrast with the redwood, and to match the accent layer. The neck woods will be...

Flame maple(1 1/4")/wenge(1/4")/Flame maple (1/8")/purpleheart(1")\flame maple(1/8")\wenge(1/4")\flame maple(1 1/4"), for a total width of 4 1/4" wide. The reason for it being so wide is that it's going to be a 6 string, and I have to have enough wood on the outer layer to last until the end of the neck, or else it won't really work.

So that's where I am so far, I plan on going out and getting somr MDF this weekend so I can at least do something productive, and so I have some beef to show you guys.

Greg
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