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  #1  
Old 02-01-2006, 06:53 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bergen, Norway
65 P-bass, refin or not?

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Hi!

I'm negotiating a deal to buy this 1965 P-bass. The owner bought it in 67-68 after having rented it for a while. He played it professionally for 4 years, then he started playing banjo, Dobro and pedal steel and the bass got played rarely. It's been in his possession until now.
Since he bought it, the bass hasn't been modded or refinished, but after showing the pics in the "Basses" forum somebody expressed doubts on the originality of the finish due to a lack of red. The seller says the colors in the pics are true to the bass. He is my uncle's close friend, can be trusted 100%, so if there ever was a refin job done, it must have been between 65 and 67-68 when he bought the bass.

I hope somebody in this forum has experience with finish and can help me find out if this is a refin or an original.

Thanks!

b.









  #2  
Old 02-01-2006, 08:12 AM
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they where all hand sprayed. So I think it's normal to have some with more or less red...

Look fine to me (I'm far to be a pro on fender finish!).
Leave it like this.
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  #3  
Old 02-01-2006, 08:50 AM
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In these days of machine made uniformity, the thought didn't even cross my mind. Embarrassing...
It makes perfect sense, thanks Yvon!

b.
  #4  
Old 02-01-2006, 06:13 PM
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Location: Gladstone, QLD, Australia
there's definitely red there...and it definitely looks like an original finish....DON'T REFINISH IT!

the knobs are definitely after market

I'm not sure about the bridge cover, the neckplate isn't stamped either...possibly they didn't do this in '65.

one of the screws in the bridge cover was replaced (not even a philips head)...

the pickguard is a 4-ply tort...I don't know if they put 4-ply torts on in '65...

I'll give you $280 for it
  #5  
Old 02-02-2006, 04:37 AM
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I don't intend to refinish it!
I'm about to buy the thing and wondering whether the existing finish is original or not.
The neck plate is indeed stamped, serial number L 68336, no "F"; you can hardly see it from the pic but it's there.
I noticed the knobs not being original; I'm getting the owner to unscrew the pick-guard and take pictures of the under side of the potentiometers and pickups.

Interesting info about the fading red.

b.
  #6  
Old 02-02-2006, 08:27 AM
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My 65p reads L632xx (omitted) with no F. Your pg looks correct in addition to the bridge cover. The Fender site :

SERIAL NUMBERS PRODUCTION DATES
L50,000s up to L90,000s 1965
100,000s 1965

Their site http://www.fender.com/support/dating..._us_dating.php
is an excellent resource and suggests some reference material that may help you with your (re)finish question. Mine is an ugly orangey kinda color but is the TONE king. The tone pot is a little scratchy and there is 40 years of sweat salt down in that bass but I don't want to mess with the mojo by replacing pots & cleaning it up. Good luck, nice bass.
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  #7  
Old 02-02-2006, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Intune
My 65p reads L632xx (omitted) with no F. Your pg looks correct in addition to the bridge cover. The Fender site :

SERIAL NUMBERS PRODUCTION DATES
L50,000s up to L90,000s 1965
100,000s 1965

Their site http://www.fender.com/support/dating..._us_dating.php
is an excellent resource and suggests some reference material that may help you with your (re)finish question. Mine is an ugly orangey kinda color but is the TONE king. The tone pot is a little scratchy and there is 40 years of sweat salt down in that bass but I don't want to mess with the mojo by replacing pots & cleaning it up. Good luck, nice bass.
Gots any pics?
  #8  
Old 02-02-2006, 11:53 AM
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Looks fine to me!

Between the typical fading and variations of the width and strength of the red shader, that finish looks well within what you should expect for that time period. As for the neck plate, Fender collectors document numerous instances where typically earlier period appointments show up on later period instruments and amps because they did not throw stuff away! They used up what they had and then switched to the newer trim, resulting in a lot of "transitional anomalies".

The knobs, bells, and screws are not a big issue because they can be replaced with period correct items. It will cost a few bucks, but you have all the important stuff intact, so don't sweat those items. Even very discriminating collectors can live with a few replaced pots, because they do wear out so commonly. Keep the old ones!

There are not many of those gems left in people's attics and closets. Grab a copy of Vintage Guitar Magazine to get up to speed on the current collector's prices. Sunburst Precisions are not the most desirable old Fenders (such as custom colors), but that looks to be in excellent condition for its age, and it should be worth somewhere around three grand or higher with the OHSC.
  #9  
Old 02-02-2006, 02:36 PM
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I need to get some closeups. This was at the Ryman last year. I think the finish is called butterscotch??
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  #10  
Old 02-02-2006, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Intune


I need to get some closeups. This was at the Ryman last year. I think the finish is called butterscotch??

That's natural, not butterscotch.
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  #11  
Old 02-02-2006, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Intune
My 65p reads L632xx (omitted) with no F.
OT: I keep seeing people omitting the least significant digits of serial numbers. Why?

b.
  #12  
Old 02-02-2006, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tombrien
As for the neck plate, Fender collectors document numerous instances where typically earlier period appointments show up on later period instruments and amps because they did not throw stuff away! They used up what they had and then switched to the newer trim, resulting in a lot of "transitional anomalies".
The date on the heel of the neck is Feb 05 1965

b.
  #13  
Old 02-02-2006, 09:03 PM
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Yea the red on my sunburst '73 is starting to fade, you can really see it in sunlight, but not indoors ;(
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  #14  
Old 02-03-2006, 06:10 PM
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I wish the red would fade on my 73...Maybe I need to leave it outta the case for a while...
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  #15  
Old 02-03-2006, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bickele
OT: I keep seeing people omitting the least significant digits of serial numbers. Why?

b.
For security...
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  #16  
Old 02-03-2006, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurningSkies
For security...
I guess I'm a bit naive, still don't get it. What could happen? I wrote the full serial No. of the bass I want to buy all over the place...

b.
  #17  
Old 02-07-2006, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bickele
I guess I'm a bit naive, still don't get it. What could happen? I wrote the full serial No. of the bass I want to buy all over the place...

b.
Uh-oh...
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