8-string neck to thin?

[jordan_frerichs]

I am afraind the neck on my 8-string build has gotten too thin for an 8-string. The finngerboard is glue to the neck, the neck is a neck through, but the wings have not yet been glued. If i have to, I can compensate the extra needed thickness by gluing a strip of walnut all the way through on both ends. the thickness at the nut is 1 5/8", at the 12th is 2 1/8", and at the 24th fret is 2 11/32" (one of the indicaters to me that it might be too thin is that most 4 strinds have a width of 2 1/2" at the end of the fb)

Here are some pics so you get a better idea

[jworrellbass]

Jordan that really sucks, I've been there myself. How wide is your neck at the bridge? And how wide is the string spread for your bridge?

[jordan_frerichs]

width at the bridge line is 2 5/8". The bridge is an unslotted Schaller 8 string bridsge, so i have a bit of flexability there. It would not look good to add extra outer laminates, and it would be a royal PITA. Maybe this will just be my narrow string bass.

[__HM__]

Well, you could pull off a holy 4 string, if all else fails. >.> That is one GORGEOUS design man. Like a Fodera mixed with a wishbass. Hope it works out for you.

[jordan_frerichs]

Yea. I have though about making a wooden 4 string bridge for it and putting the bridge and guitar tuners in storage for a later build. I would rather have a cool looking 4-string with some extra parts, than a cool looking un-comfortably narrow stringed 8 bass that i won't play often play often. Would be no problem, except the headstock is already drilled. what am i going to do about the extra holes? I don't want to glue a new top on the headstock. Any artsy suggestions would be great.

[erikbojerik]

It's neck "width" you're talking about, not thickness.

Jordan - did you, at any point, draw this out on paper (or CAD) knowing for certain the string spacing for the nut and bridge?

When I start a build, that is the very first thing I do - draw up a final design. You need a firm design before you cut wood, which means you have to know EXACTLY your bridge and nut string spacings (and not change your mind) as this is the very first element of the design, everything else (like neck taper and fretboard height above the body) follows from this. Lots of stuff with the body outline etc you can alter during the build, but not the nut/bridge string spacings.

Then when I finally get around to cutting wood, the first wood I actually cut is MDF - for a neck taper template that matches the design exactly. And I don't deviate from it.

So - right now, before doing anything else, DRAW IT OUT and check your hunch that the neck taper is not going to match the nut & bridge string spacings. It could be that you have a narrow-spaced bridge that will work - but maybe not - draw it out to check.

If - after drawing it out - you find that the neck taper doesn't match and you don't want to widen the neck, then plug the small tuner holes, toss headstock lams on the front & back of the headstock, and make it a killer 4-banger. But make sure you get a 4-string bridge that matches your existing neck taper, i.e. DRAW IT OUT, figure out what bridge string spacing will match your neck, then find one that works (Hipshots come in a wide variety of string spacings).

Did I say it enough times yet? Draw it out.

[PasdaBeer]

Originally Posted by erikbojerik

It's neck "width" you're talking about, not thickness.

Jordan - did you, at any point, draw this out on paper (or CAD) knowing for certain the string spacing for the nut and bridge?

When I start a build, that is the very first thing I do - draw up a final design. You need a firm design before you cut wood, which means you have to know EXACTLY your bridge and nut string spacings (and not change your mind) as this is the very first element of the design, everything else (like neck taper and fretboard height above the body) follows from this. Lots of stuff with the body outline etc you can alter during the build, but not the nut/bridge string spacings.

Then when I finally get around to cutting wood, the first wood I actually cut is MDF - for a neck taper template that matches the design exactly. And I don't deviate from it.

So - right now, before doing anything else, DRAW IT OUT and check your hunch that the neck taper is not going to match the nut & bridge string spacings. It could be that you have a narrow-spaced bridge that will work - but maybe not - draw it out to check.

If - after drawing it out - you find that the neck taper doesn't match and you don't want to widen the neck, then plug the small tuner holes, toss headstock lams on the front & back of the headstock, and make it a killer 4-banger. But make sure you get a 4-string bridge that matches your existing neck taper, i.e. DRAW IT OUT, figure out what bridge string spacing will match your neck, then find one that works (Hipshots come in a wide variety of string spacings).

Did I say it enough times yet? Draw it out.

+1 to all that

Personaly I use Google Sketchup. Really helps setting everythign into perspective before you start cutting anything.

[jworrellbass]

Jordan, since you have 2-5/8" width at the bridge a standard 3/4" string spead [2-1/4" to 2-3/8" overall (2-3/8" is pushing it)] will work. I'm not sure what the spead is on your bridge is. If worse comes to worse you can make your own bridge.

Or you can plug the headstock holes, shave it down, venier the front and back and make it a 4 stringer.

BTW the bass looks great.

[PasdaBeer]

Ive used 2 1/4 width at 20th fret before. Works fine, just gotta be carefull when you do your fretting not to angle the fret quite as much as some people do.

[jordan_frerichs]

Originally Posted by erikbojerik

It's neck "width" you're talking about, not thickness.

Jordan - did you, at any point, draw this out on paper (or CAD) knowing for certain the string spacing for the nut and bridge?

When I start a build, that is the very first thing I do - draw up a final design. You need a firm design before you cut wood, which means you have to know EXACTLY your bridge and nut string spacings (and not change your mind) as this is the very first element of the design, everything else (like neck taper and fretboard height above the body) follows from this. Lots of stuff with the body outline etc you can alter during the build, but not the nut/bridge string spacings.

Then when I finally get around to cutting wood, the first wood I actually cut is MDF - for a neck taper template that matches the design exactly. And I don't deviate from it.

So - right now, before doing anything else, DRAW IT OUT and check your hunch that the neck taper is not going to match the nut & bridge string spacings. It could be that you have a narrow-spaced bridge that will work - but maybe not - draw it out to check.

If - after drawing it out - you find that the neck taper doesn't match and you don't want to widen the neck, then plug the small tuner holes, toss headstock lams on the front & back of the headstock, and make it a killer 4-banger. But make sure you get a 4-string bridge that matches your existing neck taper, i.e. DRAW IT OUT, figure out what bridge string spacing will match your neck, then find one that works (Hipshots come in a wide variety of string spacings).

Did I say it enough times yet? Draw it out.

That is exactly what i did, but a few screw ups later, and here i am. I usually just use a straight edge to cut the neck taper, rather than a tapered template. Is a taper template better? I am still working the whole build process going smooth, but i am still a beginner.
I like wider spacings, esp at the bridge (another reason to make my own 4-string bridge). The top on the head is a perfect match to the body, and i sealed it with Krazy glue, i am not sure if i can even glue something to it, because it is sealed. can you use wood glue to glue another lam over CA sealed woods?
I have been considering pluging the holes, and either leaving them as is, or gluing little bits and pieces of other wood over it, and carving those in for a unique look. That, or pluging them, and engraving symbols over the plugs so they don't stick out as much.

[PasdaBeer]

You would have to sand off the glue to reglue on top of it if using normal titebond type glue.