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06-25-2007, 12:06 PM
| | Registered User Freely Endorsing Hartke, DR, Subaru, and Nintendo | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Marietta, GA | | | About to Start my first Build...
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I've been inspired. My friend Alex has, in his basement, an entire tree of BEAUTIFULLY figured Black Walnut and a ton of Ebony. I also just found a big plank of Mahogany in my basement.
I've taken this as a sign that I need to go ahead with my first build.
So here's what I need info on.
A body template: How big do I make it? I'm working on drawing them out on paper, but then what? Scan it into photoshop and blow it up? What's a good size estimate?
Also...how do I know where everything goes, in terms of scale length? Like, where the bridge goes, for example.
Sorry if this has already been covered in other threads >.<
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MIA Club #12/Modded Bass Club #6/βΘИΞКЯŲŜĦÏИĞ #60
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06-25-2007, 01:14 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: UK | | Start with the F.A.Q.S that should cover most of your questions if it does'nt go buy either
Build Your Own Electric Guitar by Melvin Hiscock or Building Electric Guitars - Martin Koch (or buy both i did & trust me there worth the small investment) then read them cover to cover a few times than should help alot if not you could try using search as 9/10 someone has covered what your going tobe looking for a few times already...
i completed my first build(6string headless SC)using the above method without any major problems aside from a few cosmetic things i can live with
hope that helps
Thonk | 
06-25-2007, 01:14 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland | | | Templates: From final drawings, make them exactly the same size and shape you need them to be. Make them out of 3/4" plywood, and don't accept them until they perfect. Be prepared to throw it away and start over. It is great practice for working the actual body.
Body size: A good rule of thumb is to keep it slightly more narrow than any thickness planers/sanders you may have access to. Other than that, its up to you.
Scale length: It is the length of the vibrating portion of the string, from nut to bridge saddle.
The next dollar you spend should be to get the Hiscock book "Making Your Own Electric Guitar". Unless you're going acoustic, then it's Cumpiano's "Guitarmaking-Tradition & Technology". Unless you're going archtop, then it's Benedetto's "Making an Archtop Guitar".
These books will give you a basic understanding of everything. After that, you'll find that you'll get answers to specifics much more quickly by searching rather than posting a question.
Take the time to learn a basic CAD program; you'll save yourself some heartache down the road. Then draw everything to scale, and purchase your bridge, before you cut the first piece of lumber. | 
06-25-2007, 03:37 PM
| | Registered User Freely Endorsing Hartke, DR, Subaru, and Nintendo | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Marietta, GA | | | I know what scale length is, but I'm just talking about how to set it with the placement of the bridge.
Also I was looking for an approximate size on the body.
Thanks for the advice, I'll get the book!
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MIA Club #12/Modded Bass Club #6/βΘИΞКЯŲŜĦÏИĞ #60
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06-25-2007, 03:49 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Montreal, Canada. | | | well.... ok the 12th fret is the middle of your scale length, go to stewmac.com and use their fret calculator, by then you will know how much you need between the nut and bridge, and also you will know where the fretboard will end at. Design the lower horn with what you have in mind. do you use the 23rd and 24th fret often? consider that when you design the lower horn, ideally you want the horn to start at the last fret, that way you can access everyone of those frets. At that point, you know where to slap on a bridge, then design the upper horn to your liking. Go to shops and observe their design, their materials... Neck dive can be a problem, a good design and good choice of woods and tuners can solve that problem. Study before you build is what I recommend... unless you dont mind wasting time and money. Bass building is rather simple when you know how its built ( a book...!) If you know how to use a few tools, that helps. Good luck on your first build. | 
06-25-2007, 03:52 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2005 Location: Hickory NC | | does your friend want to share some wood with a guy down in a-retta?
Glad you're gonna get started, if you want, one day if you're free or something, I could bring up the templates I have and let you see/use them so you can get started. That is, of course, if you like them.
Greg
__________________ Ernie Ball Stingray HH Ibanez Sr1006EBP (Discontinued)
EBMM Club Member #81
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06-25-2007, 09:05 PM
| | Registered User Freely Endorsing Hartke, DR, Subaru, and Nintendo | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Marietta, GA | | | Yeah, Greg, I wanted to use one of your body shapes before I decided to try making my own -- yeah, shoot me a PM and we'll see what's up.
Thanks to everyone for their help!
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MIA Club #12/Modded Bass Club #6/βΘИΞКЯŲŜĦÏИĞ #60
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06-26-2007, 10:40 AM
| | Registered User Freely Endorsing Hartke, DR, Subaru, and Nintendo | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Marietta, GA | | Okay, here's what I'm thinking the specs will be.
4 String
34.5" scale
Peavey T-40 Electronics OR an MM-style Pickup
Undecided on Preamp, but it MUST have a bypass switch!
Primavera Body w/ Black Walnut Top
Maple Neck w/ Ebony Fretboard - Black Walnut Peghead Veneer
Hipshot Transtone Bass Bridge...or a Bass Tremolo 
Hipshot Ultralite Tuners
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MIA Club #12/Modded Bass Club #6/βΘИΞКЯŲŜĦÏИĞ #60
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06-26-2007, 01:14 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2005 Location: Hickory NC | | | go audere for the preamp, the reviews say they're nothing but amazing. And they go completely passive.
Greg
__________________ Ernie Ball Stingray HH Ibanez Sr1006EBP (Discontinued)
EBMM Club Member #81
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