Adding a figured top to a body with a forearm contour

[awilkie84]

So, I can find a LOT of threads about people adding forearm contours to guitars with figured tops, but I can't find any about people adding figured tops to a body with an existing forearm contour.

You'd naturally have to plane down the top of the body, to add the top. My question is: What would be the requirements to make the figured top cover the forearm contour, too?

Has anyone done this, or is anyone familiar with a HowTo that would be useful for this?

[20YearNoob]

One way might be to use a thin veneer as a.top wood. I have seen luthiers bend thin veneers onto headstocks. It might be possible to glue one to your body then sand it smooth.

I think if you planed the body contours out it would be very thin and you would need a thick top piece.

[Phendyr_Loon]

If I understand your question correctly you're asking how to bend the top over the forearm contour?

It can be done easily with a top 1/4" thick or less. I'd recommend dry fitting the top by clamping it to the body, (with no glue), and clamping the steamed or soaked corner of the top over the forearm contour. When the moisture dries out of that part of the top it should retain a bend which is close enough to easily clamp on with glue.

[preside]

Um, I'm not a Luthier, but dont you want to rout out some thin channels on the back part of the laminate you want to bend then steam ?

[awilkie84]

Originally Posted by 20YearNoob

One way might be to use a thin veneer as a.top wood. I have seen luthiers bend thin veneers onto headstocks. It might be possible to glue one to your body then sand it smooth.

I think if you planed the body contours out it would be very thin and you would need a thick top piece.

I wouldn't want to plane out the contour. The planing would just be to remove the rounded edges, so the new top piece sits flat & can then be rounded. I think it would look better, this way.

Originally Posted by Phendyr_Loon

If I understand your question correctly you're asking how to bend the top over the forearm contour?

It can be done easily with a top 1/4" thick or less. I'd recommend dry fitting the top by clamping it to the body, (with no glue), and clamping the steamed or soaked corner of the top over the forearm contour. When the moisture dries out of that part of the top it should retain a bend which is close enough to easily clamp on with glue.

Would a 1/4" thick top be sturdy enough to go over top of existing body routes like a MIM P-bass with the ugly pickup-to-control cavity route? I'm trying to come up with a way to make the bass prettier & remove the need for a pickguard. I know I'd need to rear route the body, but that's ok.

[Phendyr_Loon]

Originally Posted by preside

Um, I'm not a Luthier, but dont you want to rout out some thin channels on the back part of the laminate you want to bend then steam ?

That would be a good idea. Relief cuts are necessary depending on how great the bend is and how easily the wood will bend naturally.

[Phendyr_Loon]

Originally Posted by awilkie84

I wouldn't want to plane out the contour. The planing would just be to remove the rounded edges, so the new top piece sits flat & can then be rounded. I think it would look better, this way.



Would a 1/4" thick top be sturdy enough to go over top of existing body routes like a MIM P-bass with the ugly pickup-to-control cavity route? I'm trying to come up with a way to make the bass prettier & remove the need for a pickguard. I know I'd need to rear route the body, but that's ok.

I've done basses with rear routed controls and used a 3/16" thick top. 1/4" will be suitable and is a very common thickness for flat tops.

[awilkie84]

Originally Posted by Phendyr_Loon

I've done basses with rear routed controls and used a 3/16" thick top. 1/4" will be suitable and is a very common thickness for flat tops.

Cool! Now to find a top I like.
I've been told Fraser Valley Fine Woods is a good place to look in Canada for tops. Any other suggestions?

[Gabeja15]

if you are worried about the strength of the top over large body routes, i would suggest blocking and filling the routes before gluing the top on. after the routes are filled, you can either reroute the control cavity from the back or route a smaller one to your needs.

[awilkie84]

Originally Posted by Gabeja15

if you are worried about the strength of the top over large body routes, i would suggest blocking and filling the routes before gluing the top on. after the routes are filled, you can either reroute the control cavity from the back or route a smaller one to your needs.

Oh, the routes that need covering aren't huge. Just the typical channel that runs through a MIM body. I was just concerned that a 1/4" top might be too thin to even take a minor bump without piercing through.

The body I'm using is similar to this, but with a bridge pickup route, too.

[Hopkins]

On both of these instruments, I cut the body, did the forearm relief then put the top on, both tops are a good 1/4" thick, and neither required relief cuts. I have an industrial steamer that I got from my mom (she used to own a custom drapery business).

I use a good amount of steam, and slowly bend the board over by hand to preform it. Then I apply glue, and clamp it using a caul. Its not a difficult process, but I don't think you could pull it off with a regular steam iron. I have one of these