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01-28-2009, 09:32 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Mesa, Arizona | | | Advice on a router
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What type of router and router bits do you usually recommend?
I need one to do off jobs around my house, anyway, but I thought I could hear some expert's advice?
How about a "show us your gear" for luthier shop tools? | 
01-28-2009, 10:02 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: The Lone Star State | | | the new Ridgid is awesome and the less expensive porter cables (140$ range) are unbeatable. | 
01-28-2009, 10:06 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Vancouver, BC | | | I've been very happy with my Milwaukee router, and I hear that the Bosch stuff is good too. | 
01-28-2009, 10:07 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Denton, Texas | | | depending on what you plan to do with your router building basses, you will need to decide between 1/4" and 1/2" collet. 1/4" will usually be a smaller, less expensive router that i think are completely satisfactory for routing roundovers, truss rod channels, and pickups. If you want to get into routing the edge of your body smooth, you will most certainly need the bigger 1/2" routers. I actually enjoy the process of hand sanding the edges and since i dont make very many, 1/4" was good enough for me. | 
01-28-2009, 10:14 AM
|  | *kidding* | | Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Northern California | | | If you go 1/2" then the router should also come w/a 1/4" collet- what's more, heavier IME=steadier & more resistant to *hiccups*& vibration in general. Along the *heavier is better* frame of mind(not claiming this as the Gospel, just my pref), Milwaukee, Porter-Cable & Bosch are nice; I don't like the feel of Ryobi & B&D(although DeWalt, a subsidiary/cousin of B&D, is quite nice).
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Originally Posted by Some chick on NPR THAT is a spectacularly difficult question... | | 
01-28-2009, 10:23 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Mesa, Arizona | | | Thanks.
I only have shop experience (as in high school shop) with routers, but I remember doing good.
I am a tough and patient self learner, but I do like asking a bunch of questions online (I guess this negates the "self" part somewhat).
I hope you guys don't mind...
Thanks for the answers. | 
01-28-2009, 10:37 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chicago, IL | | I own this Ridgid: http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Heavy-Du...o/EN/index.htm
I have been happy with it as a woodworker and a bass building hack. It comes with a 1/4" and a 1/2" inch collet and two bases (fixed and plunge). It is about 200 bucks new, but I see the Home Depot website has them reconditoned for 150. If that is more than you are interested in spending, Ryobi makes decent tools for the price. I have happily owned a Ryobi router. I would avoid anything cheaper than a Ryobi, though. | 
01-28-2009, 10:42 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Denton, Texas | | Quote:
Originally Posted by bassteban If you go 1/2" then the router should also come w/a 1/4" collet- what's more, heavier IME=steadier & more resistant to *hiccups*& vibration in general. Along the *heavier is better* frame of mind(not claiming this as the Gospel, just my pref), Milwaukee, Porter-Cable & Bosch are nice; I don't like the feel of Ryobi & B&D(although DeWalt, a subsidiary/cousin of B&D, is quite nice). | yes the bigger routers can handle both bits. But routers are powerful tools man, i feel like i have more control over the smaller ones. personal preference... | 
01-28-2009, 10:48 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: North Yorkshire, UK | | When I started out, I bought a good consumer model Bosch router and a Trend starter kit of 1/4" bits.
I discovered that those starter kits are ok for building simple furniture and bird tables, but its better to get decent bits as and when they are needed - you can then buy the exact size you need, and you wont waste time coming up with intricate jigs to make do with the cheapos.
EDIT: also, be aware that not all two flute bits have a bottom cut feature - dont try to plunge with those that dont! 
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Last edited by Mikey R : 01-28-2009 at 10:55 AM.
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01-28-2009, 10:52 AM
| | Registered User Luthier of Michael Wayne Instruments, Shop Manager ChromeDomeMusic | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Cincinnati OH | | | Look for an old Porter Cable 690 series with the fixed, plunge, and D handle bases. You should be able to get a good set up for less than $200ish.
For bits: CMT and Freud are the best quality and price out there.
__________________ Blunt: a:abrupt in speech; b:being direct Quote:
Originally Posted by christw My hair is ready. | Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiclogic geeeeeez Sometimes you should put a "common sense dictates NOT doing this" disclaimer | | 
01-28-2009, 11:15 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Mesa, Arizona | | | Thanks for the advice. Also what type of tables do you guys use?
Do I need to look for something with a down draft to the shop vac? Not that I mind sweeping (there is always a bit of that to do) but the less I need to sweep... | 
01-28-2009, 11:35 AM
| | Registered User Luthier of Michael Wayne Instruments, Shop Manager ChromeDomeMusic | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Cincinnati OH | | | There is a table for the 690 series as well. If you are not able to find one for a good price PM me and we can make a deal. I hardly use my 690 stuff anymore.
__________________ Blunt: a:abrupt in speech; b:being direct Quote:
Originally Posted by christw My hair is ready. | Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiclogic geeeeeez Sometimes you should put a "common sense dictates NOT doing this" disclaimer | | 
01-28-2009, 11:54 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Mesa, Arizona | | Thanks for the advice, Mikey.
I am afraid the shipping cost from Cinci will be a deal killer
I have started to look at the ads in CL. It's unfortunate that this economy is bad, but lots of contractors are going OOB and there is good pro and semi-pro hardware for not much right now. | 
01-28-2009, 12:04 PM
| | | | The P-C 690 is the Fender P bass of routers. Whatever router you get, avoid cheap bits. A router is only as good as it's bit. CMT, Freud, Bosch, Amana are all high quality and with proper care will last forever.
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01-28-2009, 12:42 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Vancouver, BC | | | Gotta add, get good bits, make a plan before you turn it on, don't force the tool, turn the power off when setting up the router, and WEAR eye protection! A cheap bit can crack on you, and throw metal at your eyes at the speed of sound. . . .you, going "Eyaggggh!".
Public Service announcement> | 
01-28-2009, 12:46 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Mesa, Arizona | | | LM Bass, thanks a lot, all good advices.
I know about shop safety, my dad was a house builder and I got an ear full (he had one fatality in his crew in 30 years, one too many as he said). | 
01-28-2009, 05:06 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Vancouver, BC | | | Cool. | 
01-28-2009, 06:43 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Boston, MA | | | I have 2. A PC 3 1/4 in a Craftsman table and a Hitachi plunge. Both have the 1/2 inch collet. Using 1/2 inch bits are preferred since they are heavier and will do a nicer job, though you may need to use a 1/4 inch if the bit doesn't come in 1/2.
The best advice is to buy the best tools you can afford. I made the mistake of buying cheap stuff and it doesn't hold up well and you end up replacing it.
Good luck | 
01-28-2009, 07:27 PM
|  | Registered User Owner and builder Clementbass | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Central Florida | | | I have 3 routers 2 Porter cable and one cheap Skill router. I use the Skill router for the plunge work I really like the light that comes on the work area. Neither of my porter cables have that light. Do any of the nice routers have one?
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01-29-2009, 07:57 AM
| | | | i have a bosch model 1617evspk kit. 1 motor with 2 bases....fixed and plunge. fantastic package. the fixed one stays in the table. for the table, i took out 1 extension wing of my table saw and replaced it with some countertop, and use the back of the saw's fence as a router fence. always pull the plug before you go near the blade....always. i use 1/2 inch bits, theyre just better made. and remember, you can spend a million on a tool, but the only thing that actually touches wood is the bit/blade...never go cheap with the bits | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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