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07-22-2010, 07:16 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Minneapolis & St.Paul, MN | | | Blade for bookmatching
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On a 14" bandsaw (93-1/2"), would you guys recommend a 1/2" over a 3/8" blade for doing bookmatching? Any TPI recommendations? |
07-22-2010, 07:30 AM
|  | Registered User
Owner, builder: jworrellbass | | Join Date: May 2009 Location: Colorado Springs CO | | | Are you referring to re-sawing? If so I use a 3/4" with 3 tpi. Use a sharp blade and go slow. |
07-22-2010, 07:37 AM
|  | Registered User
Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southwest Michigan | | Quote:
Originally Posted by gbarcus  On a 14" bandsaw (93-1/2"), would you guys recommend a 1/2" over a 3/8" blade for doing bookmatching? Any TPI recommendations? | if you are resawing, use the maximum blade width allowable for your saw. You need a rigid blade to resaw. so yes 1/2" over 3/8"...3/4" would be better.
you want a 3 TPI to 7 TPI single raker blade for resawing, you can go to 12 TPI for finish cuts, but they don't last long on hardwoods. |
07-22-2010, 08:07 AM
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Luthier of Michael Wayne Instruments, Shop Manager ChromeDomeMusic | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Cincinnati OH | | | Carbide tipped blades. Any steel blade will dull in seconds. The Lennox blade is great and the Simonds blade is the best if you can find one. And a riser kit will serve you well.
__________________ Blunt: a:abrupt in speech; b:being direct Quote:
Originally Posted by christw My hair is ready. | Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiclogic geeeeeez Sometimes you should put a "common sense dictates NOT doing this" disclaimer | |
07-22-2010, 08:07 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: NSB Central Florida | | Only thing I can add is that you make sure to setup the bandsaw properly before starting the resaw. Don't rely on the markings on the back to tension the blade, they are, generally, not even close to the right amount needed to resaw 6"+. For quality blades I'm partial to Olson Saw , they're made in Bethel,CT which is just outside my old hometown.
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07-22-2010, 08:28 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Minneapolis & St.Paul, MN | | | Wasn't sure of the correct term to use, but Yes, I'm referring to resawing. Thanks for the info! I found a 3/4" blade with 3 TPI out on Amazon. I'll give that a try and see how it goes.
I had purchased a 3/8" blade (biggest one they had) that they had at Menards, but it had a fair amount of ridges in the cut. |
07-22-2010, 08:37 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Minneapolis & St.Paul, MN | | | Wow! Those carbide tipped blades are $$$$$$$ |
07-22-2010, 08:47 AM
| | Registered User
Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southwest Michigan | | Timberwiolf blades and Olson All Pro are good quality blades, and long lasting. I get about 30 to 35 passes per blade on Rosewoods, Ebonies and Maples doing fretboards and tops, Carbide will give you 3 to 4 times the life, and some are resharpenable. Nobody said woodworking was cheap...LOL  |
07-22-2010, 08:53 AM
| | Registered User
Builder: ThorBass | | Join Date: May 2005 Location: NH | | I have a big resaw blade I think 1.5 inch but it's a pretty wide cut so I usually use my Woodslicer which is only 1 inch but nice narrow cut, and I increase the tension more than I would for general cutting. People say the Woodslicers get dull quickly, but they sure cut nice when they're sharp  |
07-22-2010, 09:01 AM
|  | quid verum atque decens
Builder: Rickett Customs | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Southern Maryland | | | You want at least a 3/4", but beware, most 14" bandsaws only have a 6" clearance which means you'll need to find a riser block. I used a riser block, so that the clearance is now 12 1/4" with a 105" blade. Some folks will tell you that a 3/4 hp motor won't resaw hardwood to that height though, but as long as you have a sharp blade, it won't bog out on you. I may get a 1+ hp motor next. |
07-22-2010, 09:08 AM
| | quid verum atque decens
Builder: Rickett Customs | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Southern Maryland | | | Also, look into a decent resaw fence like the Kreg...... I'm sure there's others...... |
07-22-2010, 09:13 AM
| | Registered User
Luthier of Michael Wayne Instruments, Shop Manager ChromeDomeMusic | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Cincinnati OH | | Quote:
Originally Posted by gbarcus Wow! Those carbide tipped blades are $$$$$$$ | Expensive up front and much cheaper in the long run. The one in my shop is at 10 years old and the blade will reach fatigue before the teeth dull. How many steel blade do you need in yen years? It's well worth the price.
__________________ Blunt: a:abrupt in speech; b:being direct Quote:
Originally Posted by christw My hair is ready. | Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiclogic geeeeeez Sometimes you should put a "common sense dictates NOT doing this" disclaimer | |
07-22-2010, 09:14 AM
| | Registered User
Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southwest Michigan | | 14" Grizzly, Rikon, Laguna, Woodcrafter, Rockwell, SCMI, all have 10" or better, up to 15" on the Laguna and 13 1/2" on the Rikon Deluxe, so it is dependant on the brand and model. |
07-22-2010, 09:19 AM
| | quid verum atque decens
Builder: Rickett Customs | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Southern Maryland | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiclogic 14" Grizzly, Rikon, Laguna, Woodcrafter, Rockwell, SCMI, all have 10" or better, up to 15" on the Laguna and 13 1/2" on the Rikon Deluxe, so it is dependant on the brand and model. | Let me rephrase JC, Lower end 14" bandsaws mostly. |
07-22-2010, 09:24 AM
| | Registered User
Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southwest Michigan | | Sorry Jason, I was being a bit of a smarta$$ as I do have smaller and larger in my shop   |
07-22-2010, 09:30 AM
| | quid verum atque decens
Builder: Rickett Customs | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Southern Maryland | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiclogic Sorry Jason, I was being a bit of a smarta$$ as I do have smaller and larger in my shop | I figured you were...... 
I own a Rigid, that I had purchased from lowes, then modified it a bit...ended up running slightly cheaper than the big dog saws.....gotta switch out the 3/4hp motor, then get a decent V belt, buy some good guides....etc..etc. |
07-23-2010, 06:50 AM
| | Registered User
Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southwest Michigan | | | You probably know all about "Carter" guides, the 2300 and 2400 are great upgrades, and the Guidall is outstanding. I have the 2400 on both of my saws. You also might want to look at the "Twist Lock" segmented belt(#3), these things are great, and completely size adaptable. Just a note |
07-23-2010, 07:43 AM
| | Registered User
Builder: ThorBass | | Join Date: May 2005 Location: NH | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickett Customs Also, look into a decent resaw fence like the Kreg...... I'm sure there's others...... | Yeah, that's actually pretty important, though you can fabricate one. I have the Kreg on my 18" Jet. |
07-23-2010, 08:05 AM
| | quid verum atque decens
Builder: Rickett Customs | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Southern Maryland | | | I especially like the "drift" adjustment on the Kreg, so that you can cut a straighter cut and make up for the blade drift. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | | 
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