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  #1  
Old 12-07-2010, 03:02 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Block inlay repair advice needed.

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I bought this SX fretless neck to convert a Fretted SX bass I bought into a fretless. In general it turned into a really nice project except that when I finally got down to trying the fretless neck (the fretted one worked great) there was a problem.

The problem is that the inlays are not absolutely flat and in fact a couple of them are coming unglued. This causes "humps" in the fretless neck surface causing nasty buzzing etc. Otherwise the neck is VERY nice maple. I can see how this happened. With a fretted neck, slight undulations between frets makes no difference because the strings hit the frets first. On a fretless...problem.

So I'm looking for a solution. The obvious answer will entail digging out the current inlays (They seem some kind of cheap plastic) and installing something new. I figure it must be reasonably glueable, strong, sandable, and look nice and dark against the maple neck.

So I'm looking for some advice on what to do. I'm thinking about options like filling the inlay cavities with black epoxy, or gluing in some dark wood veneer pieces (or maple veneer stained black) or something that might be suggested here.

I'm wondering about the ability of the neck to flex under truss rod adjustment without cracking glue or the materials. And I like the idea of dark wood because wood to wood will make a great bond to the neck and not pop off like the current ones.

I'm pretty much a noob on fretless necks and inlays so any advice you can give will be very much appreciated. Of course this is just a cheap neck (though very nice maple) and thus even if disaster sets in I'll consider the whole project as educational and "lessons" for the money!

What makes sense as the best way to fix this neck as a "first" fretless neck project?

An order for specialized neck and fret tools is going in before I start this neck or another one I want to defret. All part of the "education" I figure. Thanks in advance.
  #2  
Old 12-07-2010, 05:38 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2010
well; are they 'humps' or 'divets'?
if there are gaps i would try to match the colour with epoxy; if you do that you will now have humps, where if you originally did; i would re-level the surface;
kinda long dead flat block with appropriate sand paper; and level it the same way as a fret dress; lotsa tutorials on this; what did you fill in the fret slots with? id assume you would have already had to do something like this to level those down?
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  #3  
Old 12-07-2010, 01:17 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
I have one of the green tinted SX fretless necks. I got a 18 inch long piece of 2 X 4 that had a 20 inch radius routed on one side from someone on harmony central. I sanded what seemed like forever to remove the green tint. I used clorox to get rid of the last traces of the tint. I was able to sand the blocks even with the board. Some of the inlay spaces are larger than the inlays. I used a wood putty to fill in the spaces. The board is not perfectly level but the epoxy should take care of that.
  #4  
Old 12-07-2010, 01:26 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant Bass View Post
well; are they 'humps' or 'divets'?
if there are gaps i would try to match the colour with epoxy; if you do that you will now have humps, where if you originally did; i would re-level the surface;
kinda long dead flat block with appropriate sand paper; and level it the same way as a fret dress; lotsa tutorials on this; what did you fill in the fret slots with? id assume you would have already had to do something like this to level those down?
They are humps and divots! The problem is that the block inlays were a bad fretless idea. The fret slots were filled by the factory (It was supposed to be a fretless neck!) They look like they are filled with black epoxy. They are smooth and no problem. The block inlays were also installed by the factory.

The block inlays on the other hand seem to be some sort of gray plastic that really doesn't look too bad. But the installation is rather ratty. Some are coming loose. They are "wavy" and obviously were never "leveled" with the rest of the neck. And I don't know if you are familiar with SX necks but they are entirely covered with a thick clear poly coating which in this case is ALSO all over the fingerboard! (Note my other fretless SX has bare natural wood on the fingerboard and it plays fabulously).

So currently my plan was to somehow strip or sand the heavy poly off the fingerboard top surface. Pry out the plastic block inlays. Install "something" as new inlays. Level the whole neck and then either leave it natural bare wood or give it a coat of hard polyurethane to resist wear and brighten the tone.

The "question" here is what should the inlays be? Filling the inlay depressions with black epoxy seems easiest. And it's sandable for leveling. Also would match the filling in the fretlines. It would probably work fine if I coat the neck surface.

But if I leave it bare, I'd sort of like to have the inlays dark wood so the tone won't change as you slide over one of those big blocks. The whole surface then would at least be some kind of natural wood. But cutting and installing dark veneer inlays seems like a pretty tough job for a noob...although granted the rectangular shapes don't get much simpler!

And finally there is the issue of the neck flexing where brittle materials seem like they might not work or shiny hard materials that cant be leveled or won't stick to glue so they pop out (like the plastic originals did).

So What do you think? Am I on the right track here or am I headed for trouble?

Note the rest of the project has gone great which included installing threaded inserts into the necks (both fretted and fretless), finding, buying (not so simple!) and installing the appropriate tuning machines, and installing and shimming the fretless neck. That's when I discovered the inlay problem!
  #5  
Old 12-07-2010, 01:28 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
I have one of the green tinted SX fretless necks. I got a 18 inch long piece of 2 X 4 that had a 20 inch radius routed on one side from someone on harmony central. I sanded what seemed like forever to remove the green tint. I used clorox to get rid of the last traces of the tint. I was able to sand the blocks even with the board. Some of the inlay spaces are larger than the inlays. I used a wood putty to fill in the spaces. The board is not perfectly level but the epoxy should take care of that.
  #6  
Old 12-07-2010, 04:05 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2010
ah; i see what ur sayin ur question was..... honestly id still go with my advice; unless ur up for quite the challenge; but if you wernt u prolly wouldnt be here in the first place?
good luck; and i would either go with pearl or wood, but not veneer; you need something with some girthe for the levelling phaze and predictable problematic encounters; veneers would be a one shot deal, to get it right, and i certainly dont have a pair that big!
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  #7  
Old 12-07-2010, 11:27 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant Bass View Post
ah; i see what ur sayin ur question was..... honestly id still go with my advice; unless ur up for quite the challenge; but if you wernt u prolly wouldnt be here in the first place?
good luck; and i would either go with pearl or wood, but not veneer; you need something with some girthe for the levelling phaze and predictable problematic encounters; veneers would be a one shot deal, to get it right, and i certainly dont have a pair that big!
I don't see what you mean about veneer? I'm guessing it is that you'd want enough of the wood to stickup above the fingerboard so you can sand it back down nice in the leveling phase. I really don't know how deep the routs are for the current inlays but without tearing one out yet, they don't appear to be that thick (can tell on the unglued ones when you push on them and they flex easily).

My thought was that it's easy to get veneers in all manner of dark woods and I could probably cut out some pretty precise rectangles using a single edged razor blade. I do have some 1/4" thick black walnut that might work well for "girth" of the leveling phase.

I guess I'll have to rip out an inlay to really see what the story is. Right now I'm thinking "epoxy". Which raises the question: "How do you turn epoxy black?" I presume you mix in something like carbon black. Where do you get that? (I have had great results mixing in powdered aluminum oxide to make white epoxy)
  #8  
Old 12-07-2010, 11:51 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Canadia
The easiest and most straightforward thing to do will be to repair the existing fingerboard and finish it. Messing with the inlays has potential to go badly, especially for a newbie to this kind of stuff. If it were mine, I'd reglue the existing blocks into place, fill with epoxy and do an epoxy finish. Epoxy isn't super straightforward, but as far as fretless finishes go, its more likely to give a good result to a first timer...
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