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Body to neck tolerances is it vital that the neck and body fit tightly on a bass with a bolt on neck? My kids bought me an inexpensive kit for Christmas and I would like to try and do as good of a job that I can with it. There's about a 1/32 gap between the neck and body on each side. Thanks. |
Actually, it really doesn't matter at all. With a larger gap, the neck could shift out of alignment if it took a pretty hard hit but that's an easy fix. People get hung up over the tightness of a neck pocket but reality is that no matter the size of the gap there is still a break in contact between the neck and the side of the pocket. Just align the neck correct and bolt it tightly and you'll be fine. |
Thanks, Blue Blood! :) |
No, it doesn't matter. The joining surface is the bottom of the heel and realisitically the neck pocket fit is aesthetic only. |
If the gap is small enough, sometimes the paint and clear coat can build up around the pocket and tighten the fit a bit. You didn't mention if the kit was pre-finished or just bare wood, so I thought that info might be a bit useful :) |
Thanks for the advice. It's an unfinished J-bass style kit. I'm not real sure how to procede. I've painted car parts and other things, but when it comes to sealers and stuff like that for finishing this bass I'm somewhat clueless. |
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In my opinion (and it's just my opinion), the sides of the pocket don't really matter. What does matter, as stated above, is the large mating surface. The tighter that junction is, the better the tone. And a good way to optimize that joint is by installing threaded inserts into the neck and using machine screws. |
I had that issue when I put together a frankenP, and no, its not an issue. I aligned it and used a shim on the side to hold it in place (and aesthetics) but there's no issue. |
Great tips! I am really looking forward to getting started on it. It is one of the Guitar Fettish J-Bass kits. From what I've seen, it looks like a decent starting point for a first build. |
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