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03-04-2009, 11:41 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Seattle, WA | | | Bridge placement, scale length... a whole slew of I-don't-know-whats.
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I am looking for some piece of mind, opinions, know-how, and expertise and know that this is just the place!
I bought an old beater tele-bass and decided to do some upgrades; the first one being a new bridge and making it string-thru. Anyway... I bought a new Fender Musicmaster bridge and now want to position it. The original bridge was drilled in at 30" scale, but according to what I've learned here (and with StewMac's fret calculator), this bass is actually 29" scale. Could the factory really be this far off??
The neck has a zero fret - that is where I should be measuring from since that's where the "end" of the string is, correct?
Here are some pics of:
1. the measurement from zero fret to first fret.
2. the measurement from zero fret to 12th fret.
3. the bridge position at 29" scale in relation to the original bridge placement.
Thanks!
(ps. I know the bridge is misaligned in that last pic, and the strings are being used as guides to center the bridge  )
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03-04-2009, 11:59 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Mesa, Arizona | | | Yes, you measure from the zero fret.
This is a 29.5" (short scale) bass, evidenced by the 12th fret at 14.75".
Your saddles will be at 29.5" at the closest (high string).
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03-04-2009, 04:54 PM
|  | so far, so good | | Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: US-NY-NYC | | | Yes. Distance from nut or zero fret to 12th fret = distance from 12th to "bridge line."
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03-05-2009, 08:58 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Austin, TX | | | Also, as a general rule, try not to use the "0" mark on a tape measure or ruler for anything other than framing. Start at 1 and subtract from the final measurement. It's more accurate. | 
03-05-2009, 09:19 AM
| | Registered User Builder/owner Redeemer Basses | | Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Waco Tx | | Quote:
Originally Posted by gyancey Also, as a general rule, try not to use the "0" mark on a tape measure or ruler for anything other than framing. Start at 1 and subtract from the final measurement. It's more accurate. | +1 And to be even more accurate measure from the fret slot, not the end or side of the fret.
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03-05-2009, 09:44 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: MS Gulf Coast | | | Humph. Looks more like 14.875" (14 and seven eighths) to me, making it a 29.75" scale length. This quarter inch could make a significant difference in bridge placement, depending upon how adjustable the bridge is in the first place. | 
03-05-2009, 11:24 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2008 Location: Oak Cliff TX | | | I hate to speculate on this, but wouldn't you measure from the nut unless the string was in constant contact with the zero fret? otherwise the open tuned string would not be accurate to the 12th fret (or any other). This would be particularly true if the zero fret was added.
Just my thinking. | 
03-05-2009, 11:33 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Omaha, Nebraska | | Quote:
Originally Posted by plopswagon I hate to speculate on this, but wouldn't you measure from the nut unless the string was in constant contact with the zero fret? ... | The string IS in constant contact with the zero fret. That's the way a zero fret works--it sits in the place the nut would be, so the string presses against the zero fret on the way to the tuner to set the height, and the nut is primarily for string spacing.
Mike
Mike
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03-05-2009, 12:43 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Mesa, Arizona | | Quote:
Originally Posted by ctmullins Humph. Looks more like 14.875" (14 and seven eighths) to me, making it a 29.75" scale length. This quarter inch could make a significant difference in bridge placement, depending upon how adjustable the bridge is in the first place. | That's why I love the metric system. This fraction of a fraction of a fraction crap gives me a headache.
I think you're right.
That a 7/8 bass. Makes sense.
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03-05-2009, 01:51 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Seattle, WA | | | Thanks for the measuring tip!
It's a bit skewed - those dots on the 12th aren't centered. On my tape the middle of the 12th fret is 14 7/16" from the zero fret.
It just seems so very strange that a factory could install a bridge so far from where it's supposed to be...
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03-05-2009, 02:13 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Mesa, Arizona | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Spacelordmother Thanks for the measuring tip!
It's a bit skewed - those dots on the 12th aren't centered. On my tape the middle of the 12th fret is 14 7/16" from the zero fret.
It just seems so very strange that a factory could install a bridge so far from where it's supposed to be... | Was it hard to intunate it properly at the 12th fret?
If it is done right you then should be able to tune your bass by playing the harmonic on the 12th fret.
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03-05-2009, 02:35 PM
| | Registered User Jayda custom basses, builder | | Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Cape Town | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Spacelordmother Thanks for the measuring tip!
It's a bit skewed - those dots on the 12th aren't centered. On my tape the middle of the 12th fret is 14 7/16" from the zero fret.
It just seems so very strange that a factory could install a bridge so far from where it's supposed to be... | Where the dots are should not matter when measuring. You're measuring from the zero fret to the the 12th fret. ie. where the string would be contacting the fret if you were fretting at the 12th fret which is 14.875" from the zero fret. That would put the scale length at 29.75". Once intonated the distance from the zero fret to the bridge saddles would be very close to 30" which is probably why they are quoting 30" | 
03-06-2009, 03:47 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Seattle, WA | | | Awesome!
Thanks so much for the info. I don't know where I got the idea that I should be measuring to the center of the fret.
I have big plans for this poor Tele - I'll keep you posted!
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03-06-2009, 08:08 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: San Antonio, Texas | | | For alignment, place masking tape accross the fretboard at each end of the neck. Mark the exact center of the neck at each end. Use a straight edge to mark the center where the bridge saddles will be. Also, do this only if the neck has no movement within the body pocket. If it is not a tight fit, fix this first. For saddle placement, I usually set the center saddles at 1/2 of their ajustable travel and set your scale length at that point. That way you have good travel in both directions. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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