Bridge and saddle for 5-string bass

[jbonjovi]

I got a 6-string cheap chinese bass with a relatively narrow neck. I want to make it 5-string (so the string spacing is closer to a normal standard) If I get Ultra Jazz 5™ Pair DP549 pickups for it, is there maybe a brand of bridge and saddle with correct string width parameters that would be recommend for the pickups?

Basicly, after I buy the pickups I need to get a new saddle and a new bridge - so what do you recommend me to do, or where to look for? I would like to do it as easily as possible so if there is a spare parts that would match the pickups that would be my choice.

[Musiclogic]

You need to determine what your string spacing will be after the change. You need to do this by drawing it out to scale on paper or using fretfind or fretcalc on the computer so you can know which bridge will work in it's place. You can also look top single string bridges on ebay, or from AllParts or Hipshot if the spacing is really odd.

[jbonjovi]

Thanks for those tips! But, why do I need to determine the string spacing as you mentioned since the pickups themselves pretty much show where the string should be placed. I mean that the pickups have a clear place for the string - and that´s in the middle of the two dots for every string, you know what I mean?

I looked for those single string brides on ebay. They seem to be rather expensive if you look something for 5 -string instead of the regular 4 string. I also came across with KAHLER® 5 STRING FIXED BASS BRIDGE. That might actually work since there each string can be adjusted pretty much anywhere.

[jbonjovi]

Here you can see the picture of the pickups with the dots there.
Ultra Jazz 5

[Musiclogic]

I guess somewhere in the minds of many, this spacing theory would make sense, but in the real world, you are converting a 6 to a 5, you have no clue what your string spacing is, and you plan to use a fender replacement pick-up to determine your spacing on a non Fender bass with a different width at the nut and end of fretboard than said Fender. I guess that pretty much covers it.

The Kahler bridge will be perfect for what you are doing if it covers the string spacing of the converted 6 string neck. It should.

BTW. The reason you need to know string spacing is so you can select the proper bridge for the appliction...a bridge that will widen to the width you need for correct string placement over the FB for proper playability. If you blindly rely on pickup pole spacing you could be disappointed with where properly spaced strings cross the pickups. Maybe you should talk to a local repairman who can explain this to you with parts for examples.

[Oobly]

I'd recommend individual bridge pieces. That way you can set the string spacing easily. It also transferes the string vibration better to the body. Most boutique basses have individual bridges. I agree with Musiclogic that you shouldn't use the pickup pole pieces alone to set the string spacing, since the spacing will be further apart at the bridge and closer together at the neck anyway.

I would say make the nut first, with the B and G strings at the same places as the original B and C strings or just a whisker in from there, the A in the centre and the E and D equally in between them. Then stretch the A out along the neck, keeping it in the centre.

Then measure the chord length (33, 34, or 35" normally, whatever the old one was.) from the nut along the line you made and mark the position. The actual positions will be a little further back than that for the lower strings (BEA and D), but that's roughly where you will place the bridge pieces. Draw a vertical line there.

Then pop the pickups in and set them to a similar height as the end of the neck.

Put the B string in the nut and stretch it out along the neck and over the pickups. It should run almost parallel to the neck edge or move in a little as it goes when the string is over the pickup poles. Mark the spot on the line you made earlier. Same with the G string.

For the E and D, just measure halfway between the existing marks. Place the bridge pieces where the marks are (with the saddle piece in the middle of its adjustment range), bass ones a little further back from the marks along the lines (B furthest, then E, then A, etc), G string one at the mark.

Done...