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  #1  
Old 05-31-2006, 01:45 PM
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bridge and scale length

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the bridge determines scale length right? but it doesn't affect scale length correct? or not? for example could a gotoh 201 handle a 38" scale?
  #2  
Old 05-31-2006, 02:06 PM
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sure, depending on where you place it. you will also need to calculate and cut your fret slots accordingly

all the best,

R
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  #3  
Old 05-31-2006, 02:07 PM
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If you don't mind having a more paralell string spacing then it shouldn't be problem. As long as you keep the string tension on the bridge from going too high that shouldn't pose a problem.

That's probably not the truth but I believe it
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  #4  
Old 05-31-2006, 02:24 PM
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speaking of, how does one go about calculating fret slots?
  #5  
Old 05-31-2006, 02:37 PM
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http://www.fretfind.ekips.org/
http://www.buildyourguitar.com/resou.../jscrptclc.htm

I am sure there are a few others...
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Old 05-31-2006, 03:06 PM
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a couple other questions: how do you find the neck length in proporthion to the scale length?

also


what determines string spaceing: the bridge, or the unt? i would say bridge, but when you attach the strings to the bridge, do you just pull them across the fingerboard and see where they will hit a blank nut and then file the nut, and how do you determine tuner placements?
  #7  
Old 05-31-2006, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airrick
a couple other questions: how do you find the neck length in proporthion to the scale length?
It depends on how many frets your neck has. The distance from the nut to the 24th fret will be 1/2 of the scale length, but not all necks have 24 frets. Also, that's really just the length of (most of) the fretboard--it doesn't include the length of the neck past the 24th fret position, or the headstock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by airrick

what determines string spaceing: the bridge, or the unt? i would say bridge, but when you attach the strings to the bridge, do you just pull them across the fingerboard and see where they will hit a blank nut and then file the nut, and how do you determine tuner placements?
Most of the time when people are giving measurements for "string spacing", they mean the spacing at the bridge, i.e. 3/4" (standard Fender spacing) or 19mm. The width at the nut is a different measurement, but folks usually have their own preferences for that, too, such as "Jazz width" (1-1/2", the width of a Jazz Bass at the nut). The nut slots are then cut to keep the strings far enough from the edge of the fretboard. You can determine tuner placements however you like--that will pretty much depend on the headstock shape. Ideally, the strings would go straight through the nut to the tuners, but there are lots of headstock designs that don't do that, and it can still work fine if the nut is properly cut.

Mike
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  #8  
Old 05-31-2006, 04:47 PM
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airrick,

I think this is a good time to recommend that you order and read one of the book recommended in the new builders sticky at the top of this forum. there is great detail (text and illustrations) in Melvin Koch's book

and then read it again, and again, and again, and again ...

if you're like me ... it'll take several reads for everything to really start coming together in a way that is more than just a conceptual idea. when you start to become confortable with the concepts, get some scrap lumber and build a body ... then re-read the section on bodies. suddenly a whole load of this ought to make much more sense.

same thing for necks (although the details missing about truss rods will leave you scratching your head a little ... but you're covered by reading the discussions here)

I'm definitely not wanting to blow you off with this note - I just know from first-hand experience that reading a book like this will give you the complete picture, in the right order, and of the proper level of detail.

all the best,

R
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  #9  
Old 05-31-2006, 04:48 PM
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you said the distance from the nut to the 24 fret will be half the scale length, but i measured out 38 inches, so the 24th fret would be at 19 inches down, but that would make the fretboard smaller than my pbass, which has a 34 scale and 20 frets, so what am i missing?
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Old 05-31-2006, 04:53 PM
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i belive it should be 12th fret is equal to 1/2 the scale length instead of the 24th..
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  #11  
Old 05-31-2006, 04:59 PM
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The nut to the 12th fret is half the scale length. The nut to the 24th fret is 3/4 of the scale length.
  #12  
Old 05-31-2006, 05:02 PM
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so what length of the scale is the 24th?


*continues to read book*
  #13  
Old 05-31-2006, 05:06 PM
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D'oh, you're right--the 12th fret is half the scale length! Don't know what I was thinking. Every octave (12 frets) cuts the vibrating length of the string in half and doubles the frequency. The first 12 frets is half the length of the open string. The next 12 frets (from 12 to 24) is half of that, so the nut to the 24th is 3/4 (1/2 + 1/4) of the scal length.

Mike
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  #14  
Old 05-31-2006, 05:07 PM
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Like I posted above the 24 fret is at a position that is 3/4 of the scale length from the nut (in your case 28.5"). From where you are measuring 12 frets will cut the scale length in half, since it corresponds to an octave, which is a doubling of the frequency. So the 12th fret is half the scale length from the nut and the 24th fret is 1/4 the scale length from the 12th fret, etc.
  #15  
Old 05-31-2006, 05:11 PM
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sorry there for not reading your whole post, now that that is squared away, whould you reccomend a 24 fret neck for a 38 scale bass?
  #16  
Old 05-31-2006, 05:28 PM
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well, let me ask you a simple question -

do you ever play above the 15th fret? do you play there often enough to justify building a bass with the extra frets?

I've read of guys here wanting to build 30+ fret necks on their basses. and I'm always left wondering: 'why?'

I mean, if you want to play guitar then get a guitar. personally I find a 6-string bass to provide much more usable sonic properties to upper register notes than the same notes played up high on a four string. But that's just my personal taste


so to answer your question - I can't recommend for or against it. I can question you whether you have enormously large hands that will be comfortable with the fret spacing you'll have to endure while playing in the first couple of positions (the normal zone for a bassist's bread and butter) ... cuz that extra scale length is going to be painful on a long set when you spend any significant time down low and in the pocket.

a 36" scale is too extreme for my taste ... 35" is fine ... and 34" is downright comfy

all the best,

R
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  #17  
Old 05-31-2006, 11:01 PM
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i really don't use the upper frets all that much, but i will make it 24 frets b/c that is the simplist right now, tomorrow i will post pics of te body and neck in the drawing stage
  #18  
Old 06-01-2006, 08:42 AM
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My question about your 38-inch scale is this: What strings are you going to use? You can't just go down to the corner music store and buy them. None of those will fit. Most "extra" or "super" long are only good for up to 36 inches or so. Dingwall sells strings that work for 37, but that's still too short.

Knuckle has some, for a pretty penny.
  #19  
Old 06-01-2006, 01:05 PM
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thoose strings have a disclamer that say they are specifically designed for their 39.55 scale bass, and is unlikely to fit any other custom bass, but will it work for mine?
  #20  
Old 06-01-2006, 01:11 PM
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working on getting that picture, in the meantime, what is your opinion of fingerboard diameter? right now i have the diameter at 2 inches, but i was thinking that might be too skinny; your thoughts?
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