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  #1  
Old 11-18-2009, 09:56 PM
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Broken pickup screw - big problem... help!!

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It looks like I screwed in one of my pickup screws in too deep. I ended up stripping the head, was able to get a hold of it with vise grips, thought I was unscrewing it - and then the screw broke off at the bottom, leaving part of the screw still in hole, flush with the bottom of the pickup cavity. Is there anything I can do? I have soapbar pickups and this was on the two-screw end. I can still put one screw it, but I'm concerned about having just one screw in. Is there anything I can do to get the rest of the screw out? If not, is there anything I can do to have two screws on that end still?

Help!

And... I tried to drill into the remaining screw part and it looks like I put a small crater in it, but not straight in.

Anything I can do?

Last edited by fourstringbliss : 11-18-2009 at 10:05 PM.
  #2  
Old 11-18-2009, 11:11 PM
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The first thing I would try is to put a new screw right beside it. If the pup is held in by 4 screws, you may have to move the other three also, If you have enough room in the body cavity or pickguard opening. If that does not work, use a dremel tool with the smallest round burr you can buy. They are not much bigger than the head of a pin. Carefull cut around the broken screw, but be very careful not to go thru the bottom and ruin the finish on the back of the body. Once you have cut around it, it should come out easily. You can then drill a 1/4 hole and plug with a hardwood dowel (glued in). Again, use caution and measue depth carefully not to go through.
Rocky
  #3  
Old 11-19-2009, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky McD View Post
The first thing I would try is to put a new screw right beside it. If the pup is held in by 4 screws, you may have to move the other three also, If you have enough room in the body cavity or pickguard opening. If that does not work, use a dremel tool with the smallest round burr you can buy. They are not much bigger than the head of a pin. Carefull cut around the broken screw, but be very careful not to go thru the bottom and ruin the finish on the back of the body. Once you have cut around it, it should come out easily. You can then drill a 1/4 hole and plug with a hardwood dowel (glued in). Again, use caution and measue depth carefully not to go through.
Rocky
Thanks, Rocky! I ended up using a chisel to remove enough wood around the broken part to get a grip on it with my vise grips. I had to spray a small amount of WD-40 on it as well, to loosen it up. Thankfully, I still had about 6 mm of screw stuck below the wood surface. I can screw the pickup down to the highest level of adjustment I'd want to have it at and the screw still grips well. If there's a problem I'll eventually fill in the depression with wood filler.
  #4  
Old 11-19-2009, 08:33 AM
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They make screw extractor and plug kits for this.
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  #5  
Old 11-19-2009, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mikeyswood View Post
They make screw extractor and plug kits for this.
That would have been spectacular for this situation!



If it turns out that I don't have enough wood left for my purposes I will definitly use the drill and dowel trick.
  #6  
Old 11-20-2009, 01:31 AM
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Hi.

^Easy to manufacture from large syringe needles, if DIY is Your thing.

Ballpoint pen cartiridges have been used with success as well.

Regards
Sam
  #7  
Old 11-20-2009, 02:26 AM
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Try to refrain from using wood filler to fill a screw hole and use it again. If at all possible, drill to the diameter of a dowel, insert and superglue it , and screw into it. I've had to do this with many of my store-bought basses, as I like my pickups closer to the strings than the screw length, combined with the depth of the pickup and route, permit.

Things should be just fine.
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Last edited by T. Brookins : 11-20-2009 at 02:27 AM. Reason: glue!
  #8  
Old 11-20-2009, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by T. Brookins View Post
Try to refrain from using wood filler to fill a screw hole and use it again. If at all possible, drill to the diameter of a dowel, insert and superglue it , and screw into it. I've had to do this with many of my store-bought basses, as I like my pickups closer to the strings than the screw length, combined with the depth of the pickup and route, permit.

Things should be just fine.
Totally. I think I might eventually do this, my only concern would be drilling too deep!
  #9  
Old 11-20-2009, 09:00 AM
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Thanks folks! Problem solved.
  #10  
Old 11-20-2009, 09:04 AM
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Drilling into a very thin area of the bass is very dangerous without a drill press that has a depth stop. Sometimes with a hand drill, it literally gets away from you and goes deeper than wanted.
Rocky
  #11  
Old 11-20-2009, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky McD View Post
Drilling into a very thin area of the bass is very dangerous without a drill press that has a depth stop. Sometimes with a hand drill, it literally gets away from you and goes deeper than wanted.
Rocky
I've got a metal collarwith a set screw that attaches to a drill bit so that you don't drill too deep. I've got a variety of sizes but I'm not sure (while I'm sitting here at work) if I've got a small enough size to drill out an appropriate hole and not rub against the side of the pickup cavity. I'll have to see.
  #12  
Old 11-20-2009, 09:25 AM
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I usually just wrap a piece of masking tape around the bit as a depth gauge. Doesn't make much of a stop, but at least you know when you're at the right depth. And if you leave a 'tail' sticking out it blows away the dust so you can see better.
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  #13  
Old 11-20-2009, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky McD View Post
Drilling into a very thin area of the bass is very dangerous without a drill press that has a depth stop. Sometimes with a hand drill, it literally gets away from you and goes deeper than wanted.
Rocky
I always just mark my bit with some tape at the proper depth and stop drilling when I get to the tape. I have not drilled through yet... (crossing fingers)
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  #14  
Old 11-20-2009, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by fourstringbliss View Post
Thanks, Rocky! I ended up using a chisel to remove enough wood around the broken part to get a grip on it with my vise grips. I had to spray a small amount of WD-40 on it as well, to loosen it up. Thankfully, I still had about 6 mm of screw stuck below the wood surface. I can screw the pickup down to the highest level of adjustment I'd want to have it at and the screw still grips well. If there's a problem I'll eventually fill in the depression with wood filler.
no need for wood filler. put toothpicks in the hole and snap them off level with the top of the hole. screw your screw in. all good.
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  #15  
Old 11-20-2009, 09:50 AM
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no need for wood filler. put toothpicks in the hole and snap them off level with the top of the hole. screw your screw in. all good.
NO NO NO

Toothpicks are horrible for your tone! You want to use slices of cedar pencils.
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  #16  
Old 11-20-2009, 09:54 AM
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.. And if you leave a 'tail' sticking out it blows away the dust so you can see better.
Genius!
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  #17  
Old 11-20-2009, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by mikeyswood View Post
NO NO NO

Toothpicks are horrible for your tone! You want to use slices of cedar pencils.
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  #18  
Old 11-20-2009, 11:00 AM
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NO NO NO

Toothpicks are horrible for your tone! You want to use slices of cedar pencils.
What about bamboo taken from splintered chopsticks? Would that give my tone an Asian flavor?
  #19  
Old 11-20-2009, 11:03 AM
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What about bamboo taken from splintered chopsticks? Would that give my tone an Asian flavor?
you'll have to keep the panda's away from it.
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  #20  
Old 11-20-2009, 11:24 AM
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you'll have to keep the panda's away from it.
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