Call for Wood: Pink Ivory / Holly

sargebaker · #1 01-26-2009, 08:50 PM

Hey guys, If anyone feels this is an inapropriate place for this thread either move it or let me know and I'll shut 'er down.

I'm starting a build.. something between a piccolo bass and a guitar with really wide spacing and (maybe?) a longer scale length... I'm not toally decided. It'll be based on the design of the AJ presentation, obviously scaled down (a design I've never seen adapted to our high pitched counterparts).

Anyways, I'm looking to use a Holly top and a Pink Ivory fretboard... I know these woods are both pretty rare (maybe an understatement?) and wildly expensive, but the idea of the colour combo kills me. I've already contacted Larry and hopefully he'll come up with something, if not, maybe some luthiers on here either have some layin' around collecting dust

or know someone/somewhere that can hook me up.

Thanks guys.

maybass77 · #2 01-26-2009, 09:00 PM

how funny...i have a second window open searching for pink ivorywood myself. It's out there somewhere. Maybe try gilmer, hearne, or cook. And let me know if you find anything!

mikeyswood · #3 01-26-2009, 09:02 PM

anexotichardwood.com

sargebaker · #4 01-26-2009, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeyswood

anexotichardwood.com

Thanks, that'S a great site, and those are some nice Pink Ivory logs... will be calling them tomorrow, but I'm not really equiped to cut them myself

Larry Davis · #5 01-27-2009, 08:34 AM

Got your PM and will answer here.

I only cut holly for acrylized knife handle stock.....best use for me.

I do not mess with pink ivory because I find it to be over price and overrated. If you like the colors of it, enjoy it while it lasts. It will photo degrade (metal oxidizes) to a yellowish/brownish color exposed to UV eventually with enough exposure.

sargebaker · #6 01-27-2009, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Davis

Got your PM and will answer here.

I only cut holly for acrylized knife handle stock.....best use for me.

I do not mess with pink ivory because I find it to be over price and overrated. If you like the colors of it, enjoy it while it lasts. It will photo degrade (metal oxidizes) to a yellowish/brownish color exposed to UV eventually with enough exposure.

Thanks Larry, Is there a way to prevent this photo degradation?

Larry Davis · #7 01-27-2009, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sargebaker

Thanks Larry, Is there a way to prevent this photo degradation?

No. You can only slow the process down and it applies to ALL woods, but especially bright colored ones...

sargebaker · #8 01-27-2009, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Davis

No. You can only slow the process down and it applies to ALL woods, but especially bright colored ones...

Larry, while you're in this thread (and thanks for participating) I'll bounce this idea off you: Would you be able to do a pink dyed/acrylisized, (lets say) Birdseye Maple fingerboard?

Larry Davis · #9 01-27-2009, 10:56 AM

Short answer is yes, but only a shade of red and fretted board only. That's technically, but practically no. I dye and acrylized birdseye, quilt and other maple figures routinely. I have no use for the custom tinted resin after making one board and it's a very expensive process. Cost would be prohibitive.

sargebaker · #10 01-27-2009, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Davis

Short answer is yes, but only a shade of red and fretted board only. That's technically, but practically no. I dye and acrylized birdseye, quilt and other maple figures routinely. I have no use for the custom tinted resin after making one board and it's a very expensive process. Cost would be prohibitive.

Do you have a picture of the shade of red? And are you saying it can only be done to a board that's already been fretted (ie: I'd have to ship you a fretted board?)

Mikey R · #11 01-28-2009, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larry Davis

Short answer is yes, but only a shade of red and fretted board only. That's technically, but practically no. I dye and acrylized birdseye, quilt and other maple figures routinely. I have no use for the custom tinted resin after making one board and it's a very expensive process. Cost would be prohibitive.

Hi Larry, could you tell us what colours you regulary do?

Also, while Im asking questions, could you tell us whats the maximum thickness of wood the process works on? Would you be able to impregnate, say, a 50mm thick board?

Cheers!

sargebaker · #12 02-02-2009, 10:34 AM

^ Larry?

Larry Davis · #13 02-03-2009, 01:24 PM

Sorry, I don't get into threads often....just cruise by and see if there are interesting thread titles.

I do two resin versions: Fretted boards and fretless boards. I add an extra crosslinker to the fretless version to provide extra hardness and wear resistance beyond what's needed for a fretted board.

I regularly process 2" thick material, but can go thicker if I have a need.

I don't have any color pics on this lap top and my desk top is not set up. I'm away from the shop...cheers