Coming soon; Steinbacker fretless bass

[pilotjones]

Originally Posted by Stealth

Don't use that way. It'll cause audible buzzes and pops when you switch.

Use this wiring by line6man. When in passive mode the preamp's input is grounded and the output is lifted. That way you don't get crackling on switching.

Does that really work? I see that in either circuit in bypass mode the preamp output is open circuited; the difference is that in the second circuit the preamp input will be grounded. That's enough to prevent a pop? I'm trying to understand why it would have that effect, not to contradict. Maybe the pop comes from switching to the output of a pre that had been left floating on both ends?

[Stealth]

It works, because while the preamp is bypassed the input is tied to the ground so the amplifier has nothing to amplify.

If the input was left floating, that small bit of wire leading from the switch towards the input of the preamp would act as an antenna, picking up stray EM noise, and that'd get amplified. When you switched it back, you'd go from amplified noise that's not going anywhere to amplified noise that goes out the jack before the signal from the pickups reaches the preamp and makes it do something useful. It's a short time span, but enough to send a transient out to the amplifier.

[pilotjones]

OK, thanks. Do you know what the effects are of using a mbb versus a bbm switch (it they're even available both ways in this kind of size)?

[Stealth]

As far as I know most push/pulls are make-before-break. I'm inclined to say using an MBB would be a better option, but someone else will have to confirm.

[JIO]

I ordered a double pole-double throw on/on mini toggle, (actually 2, one black/one chrome) and will decide which is installed once they arrive.

I took the bass to a jam last night and here's my initial impressions - it plays very effortlessly. The necks material and profile are very fast and slippery which is perfect for a fretless. Also, the carbon/resin composite material was very consistent articulating any note on the fretboard. Having never played a Steinberger, it was very noticeable over the array of (very nice) wooden necks I own and have played. As it is a (long) 24 fret neck, it is a bit of a stretch to the 1st position as the neck rests high on the standard RIC 4000 shaped body. Not a problem as the bass balances nicely, just something I noticed. The Bartolini pu's are on the bass-y side, and I have light gauge D'Addario Chromes on it now (they were a used set I had, I plan on replacing them) so I wasn't expecting a lot of high or mids. I have other basses that offer that and I usually tailor my playing to the instrument in hand. So in this case, I played more to the roots as the bottom was sufficiently present to contribute to the mix. I can imagine w/different strings I could discover some more of what the bass has to offer. Any recommendations will be welcomed. I have Thomastik-Infeld flats on another franken-fretless, and GHS Precision Flats (totally old-school Motown) on my J. I've also used Dean Markley Fretmaster's which are good also.
Along w/the addition of the bypass switch, a new instrument requires some time tweek-time to dial it in. So far - so good

[JIO]

I installed new medium gauge strings, (?) from my stock of used strings... round-wound but not extreme rounds, and the bass started opening up. The light gauge strings were 'wimpy' for lack of a better word, and the bass feels and sounds better - stronger and more flavorful. The whole time, the articulation/consistency of the neck keeps surfacing as a noticeable sonic factor.

Oh, and I forgot to mention a plus of the tuner access port/slot... and a pic of the 'fully functional' Steinbacker. (I may need to use a different photo delivery system as photobucket is still down!)

[SallyGrowler]

Great job, great lookin bass.

post a sound clip please!

[Splods]

That pickguard looks pretty thick.

Can't wait for the sound of it.

[JIO]

Originally Posted by Splods

That pickguard looks pretty thick.

Can't wait for the sound of it.

Thanks! I'll be finishing my other project build (Supersonic) in the next couple of weeks so check that thread out!

As far as the pickguard, it's only slightly thicker than a standard guard. Part of what makes it look 'thick' is that it has more depth than solid/opaque plastic. My inspiration was the Gretsch back-painted lucite guards which are thick. (thicker than I used)

I'll try and get a sound-clip soon - I was playing Boogie Woogie Waltz (Weather Report/Miroslov Vitous) last night on it through my B-15 and it sounded awesome!

My slightly used (bought new in '73) LP of Sweetnighter and MV. He was someone who really inspired my playing at that point. (still does!) The Nels Cline Singers did a great cover of it (w/Devin Hoff holdin' it down on double bass) on their 2010 double CD Initiate live here in SF and I was in the house to hear it! Joining them on this tune were members of Deerhoof. Afterwards Nels joked that he had subjected these 20-somethings to play fusion!

[Splods]

I've been waiting a while for the Supersonic to be updated.

[JIO]

Originally Posted by Splods

I've been waiting a while for the Supersonic to be updated.

patience grasshopper...

[Splods]

At this rate I'll get my Orchid bass done before it. I only get to work on it 3 hours a week.

[JIO]

Originally Posted by Splods

At this rate I'll get my Orchid bass done before it. I only get to work on it 3 hours a week.

I hear that... Orchid bass? - do you have a tb build-thread going? If so post the link.

[Splods]

Unfortunately not. School project, and I've made a few mistakes with it. I will post images when done.

Six string fretless :P

[JIO]

Originally Posted by Splods

Unfortunately not. School project, and I've made a few mistakes with it. I will post images when done.

Six string fretless :P

Hey, you gotta' start somewhere! (learning from mistakes and all) Sometimes it's the best way to learn. Good on ya' for starting a process that will lead to greater things down the road!

[Splods]

Thanks. It's actually my second. My first was a P bass made from W.A Jarrah.

[JIO]

Originally Posted by Stealth

Don't use that way. It'll cause audible buzzes and pops when you switch.

Use this wiring by line6man. When in passive mode the preamp's input is grounded and the output is lifted. That way you don't get crackling on switching.

Stealth - excuse my technical electronic ignorance (TEI) here but if you would be so kind to help me link this diagram w/an OBP-2 wiring diagram (w/blend and volume control)?

Please note that that the Aguilar diagram that is readily available on line is different from how my preamp came. It shows the left-pole on the Vol. pot going straight to the jack ring. On the preamp I received, the left-pole on the Vol. pot first grounds to the pot itself, and then goes to the (neck pu) upper left blend pot.

I am guessing the output/jack-tip terminal is the green wire from the preamp, and the output from the volume control is the black (?) wire (right below it on the preamp), and am not certain which wire is the preamp input, and which is the preamp output (on the preamp). Also, I know the ground symbol, but where exactly would you ground it to?

...thanks ahead of time.

[Stealth]

I have the OBP-2 wiring diagram from the 'net side-by-side with the above diagram by line6man, and as far as I can follow they are identical.

The ground symbol is great because it's a simple way to state "connect all these points together and finally join them to the ground (sleeve) lug of the output jack" without having to draw the actual grounding wires themselves and cluttering up the diagram. In all wirings, no matter how simple or complex, the final grounding point is the sleeve lug on the jack.

When grounding things you should know that the pot lugs don't physically contact the pot casing, so they can act as a ground. When grounding things, the bigger the surface you ground to, the better because it'll also collect stray EM noise and send that off to the ground as well, without impacting the sound.

The fact your diagram shows that you should connect the left volume lug to the pot casing is a matter of convenience - the pot casing is large and metallic and thus works well as a grounding surface. Same goes for the blend pot - ground what needs to be grounded by connecting it to the casing of the volume pot, then solder a final ground line from the casing of the volume pot to the output jack's sleeve contact. That'll be the cleanest way to ground all the pots without leaving a tangle of wires inside.

As for the colors, I'm not really sure how the wiring you got with the OBP-2 looks, but according to the online OBP-2 diagram the preamp input is blue, the preamp output is green, the preamp's ground (again, towards the output jack) is black and the preamp's 9V power is red. The output from the volume control towards the bypass switch can be any color you have at hand.

I usually use white wires for signal and black wires for ground, with occasional red/green/blue/brown if there's splitting or similar involved.

[4001]

That bass looks great!

[Demon_Hunter]