Do I have to move the truss rod more?

[Richard Sabines]

I always make my own trussrod adjustments, and I've nevr found any problems with the truss rod on the top or bottom.

I have a "new" MIJ 1987 precision bass that has the truss rud on the bottom, I use a philips screwdriver clockwise because I want a more flat neck, I need to move the screwdriver more for the neck to be flatter but now it seems impossible to move it without an electric screwdriver. Does my truss rod is bad?(which I don't think so), can the force of the electric screwdriver damage the truss rod or neck?

[T-Bird]

Hi.

DO NOT USE ANYTHING BUT MODERATE TORQUE ON THE TRUSS ROD!

That means NO electric screwdrivers, NO electric drills, NO extension handles, NOTHING other than slight finger pressure.

If the TR doesn't move, there can be quite a few different reasons as why.

The threads can seize if there's no lubrication, or if the threads are cut and not rolled as they should be.

Some (bad) TR designs require the strings to be loosened and some (equally as bad/obsolete) require pre-bending the neck in either direction.

The TR can run out of threads if the manufacturer has cheaped out, but that's easily remedied by adding some washers between the nut and the neck.

Make sure that You know exactly why the nut doesn't turn before attempting anything else.

Regards
Sam

[Richard Sabines]

Originally Posted by T-Bird

Hi.

DO NOT USE ANYTHING BUT MODERATE TORQUE ON THE TRUSS ROD!

That means NO electric screwdrivers, NO electric drills, NO extension handles, NOTHING other than slight finger pressure.

If the TR doesn't move, there can be quite a few different reasons as why.

The threads can seize if there's no lubrication, or if the threads are cut and not rolled as they should be.

Some (bad) TR designs require the strings to be loosened and some (equally as bad/obsolete) require pre-bending the neck in either direction.

The TR can run out of threads if the manufacturer has cheaped out, but that's easily remedied by adding some washers between the nut and the neck.

Make sure that You know exactly why the nut doesn't turn before attempting anything else.

Regards
Sam

Thanks Sam!

Ok, electric screwdriver is out of my mind now

The bass right now is without strings, and all the MIJ "E" series that I've tried are flawless on the truss rud thing and general quality of the bass.

Can I put some lub tonight on the truss rud and tomorrow look if it's easear to move?(it's very easy to move counter clockwise but as I said it before, it comes to a point where clockwise has an end and still the neck isn't flat)

Sorry but I didn't understand the washer's thing..

[T-Bird]

Hi.

You're welcome.

Originally Posted by Richard Sabines

it's very easy to move counter clockwise but as I said it before, it comes to a point where clockwise has an end and still the neck isn't flat.

Then it sounds like You have indeed run out of threads on the TR.

You can lubricate the threads, very sparingly, but for this problem of yours it probably won't help.

Originally Posted by Richard Sabines

Sorry but I didn't understand the washer's thing..

The washers are put on the TR after the nut has been removed, to "build up" the load bearing surface on the neck.

The tricky part is to find exactly correct sized washers, since no easily obtainable standard OD/ID (outside diameter/inside diameter) is correct out of the box.

I turn mine on a lathe, but regular washers can be filed by hand to match the OD of the nut.

Some on-line retailers like StewMac IIRC sell 'em, but easy enough to do them Yourself.
Just make sure that the washer OD is rather smaller than larger than the nut, otherwise it may crack the neck.

Since the lead on the thread is ~1mm, a 1mm thick washer gives You approximately one turn on the TR nut.

Regards
Sam