Experiment with acetylated wood (Accoya)

[wcoffey81]

isn't vinegar just a weak form of acetic acid? the only issue i would be concerned with is where any aluminum parts, tuners or bridge, come in contact with the bare wood. any chance you can do a ph test on the sawdust? and then do the same with some un-treated alder?

[TonH]

Good questions!

It's recommended to use stainless screws.

As a test I could put a chrome screw in a piece of wood that's left over and see what happens.

The body will be coated with oil or clearcoat, so I am not worrying about the bridge or tuners being affected by the wood.

I am not able to do a pH-test on the wood or saw dust.

[TonH]

So this wood wouldn't be good for metal ;-)

See the picture below, a piece of the wood with a chrome screw and a brass screw. Let's see how they will react with the wood.




This I already used for a test with Danish oil.



On the other hand, oak also contains acid. To prevent stains in oak you should use brass screws/nails.

[TonH]

It took a while but here is another report about what has happened since te last post.

The radius of the fingerboard is applied (9.5 "). The position dots are in place (pearl). The headstock is brought to te right thickness. The transition from the head to the neck is applied using rasp, file and sandpaper.





The front and back of the body are sanded flat. The side of the body is nicely squared with the router . For this purpose, the template used as a guide. After some sanding the traces of the routing are no longer visible.




to be continued...

[TonH]

Here an update of the work done since the last post.

- body contours
- neck
- holes for tuners.
- drawing of the scratchplate
- template for neckpocket
- etc...

[TonH]

Tonight I had some time to route the neckpocket...



And with the neck...

it's very tight!!





Now it looks like a bass!!!