Finishing Spalted Maple

toolfann615 · #1 10-19-2007, 02:02 AM

Im still in the planning steps of building my bass but i had wanted to use a spalted maple Lam top, i read somewhere that it is incredibly hard to finish yourself, is this true or is it the same as other woods, i plan to use a poly of some kind.

tjclem · #2 10-19-2007, 05:13 AM

I use poly too.

T2W · #3 10-19-2007, 05:27 AM

It can be the same as other woods depending on how much the Maple is rotten, I used good old Danish Oil on mine and it turned out ok. I also put two coats of CA before sanding. Im sure that helped. I would imagine that insanely spalted maple is really hard to sand properly since its so frail.

Tdog · #4 10-19-2007, 11:01 AM

I treat the spalt with a marine epoxy designed especially for rotted and punky woods. Smiths Cold CPES Epoxy is one such product. It is not cheap!..... Or....I have also diluted 5 minute epoxy with acetone and applied it to punky spalted areas with excellent results.

Yellow · #5 10-19-2007, 11:49 AM

I have tryed Z-Poxi finishing resin, undiluted it darkens wood too much, I am still experimenting with the right amount of dilution for good results but I am also thinking waterbased Poly dimond or something else that is tough (flooring type)

toolfann615 · #6 10-19-2007, 03:36 PM

so ther is no problem with smudging the finsih, cuz thats what i read and i dont wann spend the $$$ on a boomatched laminate if its gonna look like crap.

Luke Sheridan · #7 10-19-2007, 04:53 PM

Use a sanding block at all times. Don't even think of touching it any other way. If you look at it cross eyed it'll get uneven spots. And use a respirator or good dust mask. I got a nasty throat infection from the stuff. I'm not kidding about either point. Sanding Block and Breathing Block

toolfann615 · #8 10-21-2007, 01:41 PM

by dust mask you mean one of those white nose and mouth cup things right?

Manual_Combat · #9 10-21-2007, 10:54 PM

Jonny B · #10 10-21-2007, 11:11 PM

Subscribed

clink · #11 10-22-2007, 08:57 PM

Minwax wipe on poly. Use at least ten coats. Wait at least a week and rub it out with 0000 steel wool and paste wax. If the wood is punky I've heard flooding the soft areas with super glue can help. Mine was solid. Don't breath the dust-nasty stuff.

Yellow · #12 10-23-2007, 11:19 AM

yeh I am hating the Spalted, the Nicest looking stuff is the punkiest on my bass and the headstock plate is so tender fitting the nut took a little chunk out, so I had to taper it a bit to fix the problem.

Looks so nice but I just cant stand working with it. But now I am well into it so I have to finish.

Good luck with yours.

tjclem · #13 10-23-2007, 11:50 AM

Sand flat use penatrating epoxy. Lots. After that drys/hardens then sand flat again. Now hit with a few coats of wipe on poly. Bring to 400 grit then start filling with slow set CA glue. More sanding more CA glue etc.etc. then spray many coats of poly. Great fun!

Yellow · #14 10-24-2007, 01:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjclem

Sand flat use penatrating epoxy. Lots. After that drys/hardens then sand flat again. Now hit with a few coats of wipe on poly. Bring to 400 grit then start filling with slow set CA glue. More sanding more CA glue etc.etc. then spray many coats of poly. Great fun!

You're not kidding