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  #1  
Old 01-25-2009, 03:53 PM
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first build completion/setup problem.

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so i have just finished my first build (sorry for the photo quality)


my problem is the action is way high, because for some reason or another the bridge is too high. I think it is because i applied polyurethane then attatched the bridge overtop.

I filed down the nut, and the trussrod/relief is perfect.
Am i ment to file down the saddles in the bridge? they are as low as they can go but i probably need another 1-2 mm

I can see two options: file the saddles, or route out a few mm from the body. Which should i do? or possible 3rd option? thanks
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  #2  
Old 01-25-2009, 03:56 PM
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Shim the neck pocket. Or file the saddles down.

If it's a neck-through... file the saddles down.
  #3  
Old 01-25-2009, 08:36 PM
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You could also just rout out under the bridge the desired amount. Make a template and it would be a piece of cake.
Good luck,
Dirk
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  #4  
Old 01-26-2009, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler View Post
You could also just rout out under the bridge the desired amount. Make a template and it would be a piece of cake.
Good luck,
Dirk
I had to do that too - same problem - action way too high and no further recourse at the neck end of the equation...

I routed under the bridge and was good (enough) to go. I actually routed too much (doh!) and ended up putting a thin piece of wood in the relieved area.

But I think the routing option is better than filing the saddles.
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  #5  
Old 01-26-2009, 03:47 PM
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It looks really great!
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  #6  
Old 01-26-2009, 03:54 PM
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Very nice job indeed! If it were mine I would rout out a bridge pocket to solve the string height problem (this is a neck through, right?).
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  #7  
Old 01-26-2009, 03:57 PM
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I really like the looks of recessed bridges.It just makes an instrument scream "handcrafted".
  #8  
Old 01-26-2009, 04:17 PM
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hows a wood bridge for you then, i love them, non adjustable, just floating one peice wood bridges, mmmmmm
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  #9  
Old 01-26-2009, 04:17 PM
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Here are some pics of how I handled it:

Here's the bridge-recess routing jig - As Dirk said, with a jig, it's easy:



Maybe a little TOO easy (or I didn't measure twice...) but I went too deep...


So I routed the entire central core area and glued in some thin padauk pieces:


And all's well that ends well:
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Last edited by tZer : 01-26-2009 at 04:22 PM.
  #10  
Old 01-26-2009, 08:53 PM
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Yeah, If it's a bolt on, just shim the neck so it's tilted back slightly.

Otherwise, I'd suggest routing the body. Filing saddles is a cheap and dirty hack that might get you by if it only needs to move a little bit. I've done it, but it's not usually the nicest.
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  #11  
Old 01-26-2009, 09:02 PM
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Way to make lemonade out of lemons, i like the padauk pieces.
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  #12  
Old 01-26-2009, 09:07 PM
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For me when i made my first The neck angle was wrong this may be the case for u. I simply put a quarter between the neck and body to shift the angle and though it may be said to affect the sound I dont care that one was my first and I cant tell anyways.
  #13  
Old 01-26-2009, 11:45 PM
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Nice improv tZer, hats off to you!
Actually I think it looks very nice and intentional in the finished bass, great match to the fingerboard too.
To me stuff like that is why I really enjoy making basses, every one poses it's own problems, and improvisation to cover/mutate and change, that's the magic.
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  #14  
Old 01-27-2009, 08:47 AM
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Dirk - thanks, man!

I agree - it's like jamming - you take where your at and make it work. Sometimes it comes out better than anything you could have planned.
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  #15  
Old 01-27-2009, 08:54 AM
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I vote for the routing the bridge pocket option. I think it would look very cool to have the base of the bridge flush with the body of the bass.
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