First Build - FJ Special ( Fanned Fret Content)

[Cougmeister]

This is my first thread over here in the luthier's corner, but I've been a lurker here ever since joining TB.

This build is really a conversion, but it centers around a custom neck and bridge, both drop-in replacements.

Some background on the build - ever since joining here, I've had GAS really bad for a dingwall bass. I'm a college student and a new father, so my budget doesn't have room for boutique basses. One of my main basses, a MIM Fender Deluxe Jazz V, has left me wishing for more when it came to the B string. After searching of ways to improve it, I never came up with an effective way to get the sound I was after. Then it hit me - why not convert my Jazz into a fanned fret bass?

I began to talk to Geoff St. Germaine, and we have since come up with some rough specs for the neck. To really make this conversion effective though, I needed to come up with a new bridge.

I'm currently a Machine Tool Technology major, so I have experience in metalworking and have access to the machines to make my own bridge.

So now the adventure begins. Geoff will be sending me neck plans this weekend and I am in the process of designing the new bridge.

Neck specs:

Maple neck
Indian rosewood fretboard
Standard size fretwire
Fanned frets - 37"-34" scales
3 + 2 Fender style headstock
Dual action trussrod
Corian nut
Gloss Nitrocellulose finish
Pau abalone front and side dots - Dingwall style
12" radius fretboard
C neck profile, 0.75" 1st fret, 0.875" 12th fret
1 7/8" nut

[Cougmeister]

Neck Specs added to OP.

[Cougmeister]

Here's the first bridge design. I have to say that this is my least favorite, as it leaves screw holes exposed and the bridge is only held on with two screws.

[Cougmeister]

Here's number two. This one only leaves one screw hole exposed, which is more bearable.

[Cougmeister]

Here's the last one. It covers all of the holes and would probably be the most stable.

So what do you guys think, 1, 2, or 3?

[Geoff St. Germaine]

I think aesthetically the first bridge is best, but obviously leaves the screw holes from the original bridge visible. I don't think there's much of a stability issue between the 3 as two wood screws have plenty of holding power.

Once I get everything laid out we can see exactly the foortprint that the bridge will need to cover in order to hide all of the screw holes from the current bridge.

[Cougmeister]

That's good to know on the non-issue of stability. I still need to work out a saddle design. I'm looking at doing something similar to the Dingwall saddles, as there are less parts than other monorail bridges.

[Sni77]

Very interesting thread, subscribed! I'm curious as to how this will turn out. What about a bridge with individual saddles? Otherwise I like the look of you design 1 and 3 best.

[Cougmeister]

Originally Posted by Sni77

Very interesting thread, subscribed! I'm curious as to how this will turn out. What about a bridge with individual saddles? Otherwise I like the look of you design 1 and 3 best.

Thanks for the input! They will be individual saddles. Each slot on the bridges pictured are for a saddle that has yet to be designed. If you're meaning individual bridge pieces, that isn't possible, because I'm not doing any drilling on the body.

[suraj]

It seems your designing your fanned fret bridge around the existing screw holes of your mim jazz v bass.. With this I have one thing to point out -

The MIM Jazz V has a bridge with 5 screws, 3 on the back and 2 in the front. It seems that the g string saddle on these basses intonates somewhere between the screw rows. Since the g string on your fanned design will remain unchanged in length, your saddle slot for that string, in your design doesn't seem to have enough room for it to intonate.

EDIT : Sorry for not reading the entire thread properly, I'm sure Geoff has compensated that length in the neck. I like design number 1. Just put screws in the other tow holes, it'll look fine.

[Cougmeister]

It's all good. Yes, I'm using the original screw holes for the bridge. I designed it that way for now because unfortunately that is the furthest back I can get the B string. We're modifying the headstock to gain more fretboard length. Instead of the straight 5 it has now, were looking at a 3+2 setup. Geoff is working on the neck layout this weekend, so a lot of the build will make more sense once I add them.

[Cougmeister]

Here's a quick update.

Geoff just sent me the templates for the neck and we are going ahead with the project.

Here's the heel of the neck. The fretboard will hang over the heel some to allow for the frets to fit.



The new headstock shape. It is Geoff's take on a 3+2 fender headstock.

[Cougmeister]

Here's the full neck. I'm liking it even more every time I look at it!

[Cougmeister]

Neck blank is glued. It will sit and dry while all of the other parts come in.

[Cougmeister]

Here's a somewhat final bridge design now that I have measurements from Geoff.

What material should I use?
1-Brass
2-Aluminum
3-Steel

[Cougmeister]

After some scrounging, needing to keep this build as low cost as possible, I bought some 3+2 black gotoh style tuners off of a fellow TBer.

Time for some input - Should I go with an aluminum bridge that won't match the black tuners but will match the control plate, or go with a brass/aluminum brass and paint it gloss black to match the tuners?

Here's some pictures the bass as it is right now. I may end up getting a new pickguard, but it would be a BWB one.

[daveman50]

Match the control plate - maybe you can swap the tuners out later to match.

[Cougmeister]

Originally Posted by daveman50

Match the control plate - maybe you can swap the tuners out later to match.

That thought had crossed my mind. I got these for a steal at 45 shipped, so I will make do.

[Sni77]

Originally Posted by daveman50

Match the control plate - maybe you can swap the tuners out later to match.

+1

Do you have any estimate to what a total cost will be?

[Cougmeister]

He's asked me not to post prices up. You can pm him if you want to for prices.