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  #1  
Old 11-02-2010, 06:14 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Plymouth, MA
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First build thread, woo!

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Since I've established myself in an IT position in a local high school, I have an entire woodshop at my disposal. I've wanted to build from scratch for a while now but haven't had the resources (apartment livin') until now.

Pics! Most are from my phone, so lousy quality. There's also a crack in the plastic of my phone, hence the weird mark on most of the pics. Here's a few of the shop area:






Stages:





Here's where I'm at as of now:




This is, above all, a learning experience. I'm not hoping for anything to come out very playable but I'm aiming for it. I'm planning on a lined fretless 5'er, with donor hardware from an old 5 string with a cracked neck I have.

The body shape was a rough sketch and done mostly freehand. I tried masonite for a template but it was too thin and the router bit destroyed it. So I made a new template out of plywood which is holding up quite nicely.

The only hardware I may end up purchasing for this is a trussrod and soapbar/MM style pickup; the donor bass has two J pups which I think would be a little cramped on this body based on my sketches.

If I've learned anything so far, it's PLAN AHEAD. I kind of dove into this headfirst without much in the way of life-size sketches, etc etc. I'm kinda wingin' it. While I'm still having fun, I'm slightly concerned about the final product. Only time will tell.

I do enjoy working with the pine, however. Very soft and easy to work with, although I'm curious what the weight balance will feel like. I think i'm going for a smaller headstock.

Some questions:

First of all, for a 'cheapie' build (but also overall), what would you suggest for a trussrod? I don't want to go crazy on an amazing $40 double action beast. Just something simple. Any stewmac/allparts product numbers that anyone's willing to throw my way?

The thing that worries me most is routing the truss channel. For a single action, it must be a bowed channel? Silicone to hold it in snug? How snug/well should the rod fit without any silicone/whatever?

Thanks!
  #2  
Old 11-02-2010, 07:32 AM
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how cool to have that shop at your disposal!
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  #3  
Old 11-02-2010, 07:58 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Granada, Spain
I´m a first builder:
First build in progress

You hit the point: PLAN AHEAD. Ill add quality tools, and patience.

Double action rods makes life easier.
Stew´s rod costs 16 bucks.
If you go for the cheap thing:
http://cgi.ebay.com/BASS-GUITAR-TWO-...item2c51b246f4

Good luck!
  #4  
Old 11-02-2010, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmorbita View Post
how cool to have that shop at your disposal!
It's a lot of fun. What always held me back from trying was the lack of a planer. That beast in the first pic makes quick work of something that would take quite a while by hand.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bajerovaquero View Post
I´m a first builder:
First build in progress

You hit the point: PLAN AHEAD. Ill add quality tools, and patience.

Double action rods makes life easier.
Stew´s rod costs 16 bucks.
If you go for the cheap thing:
http://cgi.ebay.com/BASS-GUITAR-TWO-...item2c51b246f4

Good luck!
Did you find that a neck-through was easy? I've heard that it can be less forgiving if you mess up, but to me it also seems as though it would be easier as far as planning/routing. You have a clearly pre-defined neck-bridge line (which eliminates the problem I'm now facing: neck heel location vs neck line), and the wings that get glued to the neckthrough section are really not necessary when it comes down to it; you could have one long neck with a bridge, pup, pot(s) and jack and it would function.

I'm considering scrapping it and doing a neck-through. The heel location may not be optimal enough to salvage. Then again, while waiting for glueing for the next one, perhaps I'll try and salvage it.
  #5  
Old 11-02-2010, 10:15 AM
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So................much..................space..... ........I envy you
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  #6  
Old 11-02-2010, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuso View Post
You have a clearly pre-defined neck-bridge line (which eliminates the problem I'm now facing: neck heel location vs neck line), and the wings that get glued to the neckthrough section are really not necessary when it comes down to it; you could have one long neck with a bridge, pup, pot(s) and jack and it would function.
You readed my mind guy!

Did you made a full size pattern?
I did it and it makes everything much clear.
I was not sure how to deal with alignment, and most important I DO want a neck thru.
Anyway many people go for a bolt on in its first build and it goes right.
Start a thread, there are lot of bass freaks eager to respond and with lots of experience.

If you want to build a bolt on I sugest face the thing and do it, you are probabilly going to spend less than 100!
Maybe this can help you:
http://www.buildyourguitar.com/resou...cket/index.htm

PD: I also envy your space!
  #7  
Old 11-02-2010, 12:24 PM
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I think that I've decided to make a new one, neck-through this time. I love neck-thrus and it seems as though it would help in the centering of the bass/neck line.

To make it easier on myself, I'm going to use my 'parts bass' and more or less copy the design and dimensions as best I can, in order to get the feel for measurements, etc. So I'm going for a 5-string neck-thru. Easy woods; probably staying with the pine for the body and doing a maple/oak/maple three piece neck.

Bajerovaquero, how thick was the wood you used for the neck/body? I'm thinking start with everything 2 inches/50mm thick and planing down to around 1.6-1.75 inches or around 40-44mm thick.
  #8  
Old 11-02-2010, 04:45 PM
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Location: Granada, Spain
Wings and main section 40 mm, maybe too thin for my taste.
There is no angle between body and fingerboard, I overcome this by using a 9mm fingerboard, but maybe I´ll need some routing for the bridge.
  #9  
Old 11-03-2010, 08:29 AM
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I'm also quite excited by this:



Should be up and running in a couple of days, with some luck.
  #10  
Old 11-03-2010, 10:13 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
is that some kind of cnc router?
  #11  
Old 11-03-2010, 11:02 AM
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Location: Ottawa, ON
Looks like a CNC router table. We have a similar one where I work. They are great for making accurate templates quickly if you have some decent CAD skills.
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  #12  
Old 11-03-2010, 11:14 AM
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That it is. It hasn't run in a year or two, but we're getting back up and going.
  #13  
Old 11-03-2010, 12:24 PM
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If you know how to program it, you could CNC your entire bass with that thing.

lowsound
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  #14  
Old 11-03-2010, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamlowsound View Post
If you know how to program it, you could CNC your entire bass with that thing.

lowsound
Not really. It looks like it's a 2D router, the same as ours. The depth (or Y-axis) is very limited. It goes up and down, but not while it is moving in either of the other two (X and Z-axis) directions.
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  #15  
Old 11-03-2010, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fretless_guy View Post
Not really. It looks like it's a 2D router, the same as ours. The depth (or Y-axis) is very limited. It goes up and down, but not while it is moving in either of the other two (X and Z-axis) directions.
I don't see why, even if it cannot move Y while X or Z are going, it could still make a bass. It would just take a REALLY long time. As in, tell it to go and come back tomorrow long.

I'll talk with the shop guy and find out its limitations, etc.

In other news, I've started my new project. I've drafted a full-size scale on plywood and I feel MUCH more confident having a full drawing to go by, with measurements and all!

The pine I had was only 1.5" thick, so I planed it down to 1" and will be using some top and bottom woods for the body.
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