First from-scratch build (pictures)

Rudeboy · #1 03-30-2008, 09:08 PM

I've built a couple bodies before, but here is my first attempt for a from scratch build.

It's 34" scale
the top is curly maple and the body/neck is Maple and Paduk

still don't know what pickups to put on it
suggestions?
i'm partial to jazz pickups, $200-$300 range

i dunno yet

what do you think?

iamlowsound · #2 03-30-2008, 09:16 PM

That looks really good. I would put nordstrands into it.

lowsound

pilotjones · #3 03-30-2008, 09:24 PM

Very interesting, but... it can't possibly be intonating properly with the saddles and bridges in those positions.

Bassgirlsara · #4 03-30-2008, 09:25 PM

oooh I like that a lot! nice work!

Rudeboy · #5 03-30-2008, 09:27 PM

it's pretty close, and they SHOULD each adjust enough i believe

the only one that is limited is the lowest string (i hope)

callmeMrThumbs · #6 03-30-2008, 10:37 PM

Love the design! Yeah, in my opinion, I'd rather have the bridge squared up - more user-friendly. Otherwise, fantastic.

-Josh

allenhumble · #7 03-30-2008, 11:07 PM

How well does it balance?

Rudeboy · #8 03-30-2008, 11:27 PM

surprisingly well, actually

having said that, i haven't routed any of the cavities for the electronics,
but i also think i can take a bit more off the back of the neck

pilotjones · #9 03-31-2008, 04:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rudeboy

it's pretty close, and they SHOULD each adjust enough i believe

the only one that is limited is the lowest string (i hope)

In a typical setup, the G string ends up slightly back from the "ideal bridge line" (the scale length line), and the other strings gradually more than that, until the E is at least 1/4" behind the G, and the B further than that (unless it's a taper core). With your bridge bodies in as they are in a reverse stagger, it looks like you'd barely be able to put the saddles in a straight line, much less in a proper stagger.

I'm trying to help out here, since it looks like you haven't made the final screw holes yet.

orgmorg · #10 03-31-2008, 08:03 AM

Cool looking bass!
But I have to agree with Pilot on the saddles.
I played with one of those pics in my paint progam, and it looks like the front of the low B bridge is just over 34" from the nut. If that is the case, the higher strings will not intonate properly. Looks like you will get about an F# at the 12th fret of your G string with the saddle adjusted all the way forward. Maybe even an F where it is in the pic.
Definitely worth checking ( measuring )
Great design, though. The f-holes really compliment the lines of the body.

Rudeboy · #11 03-31-2008, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pilotjones

In a typical setup, the G string ends up slightly back from the "ideal bridge line" (the scale length line), and the other strings gradually more than that, until the E is at least 1/4" behind the G, and the B further than that (unless it's a taper core).

I was kinda wondering about that (and hoping that it would work)

Since ive got strings on it, i can do my best to une it and see if adjustments need to be made. I don't think that it would be too late, but it would be a lot of trouble.

So, this is what i understand about adjusting the bridge, correct me if i'm wrong:
-tune the open string
-hold down the 12th fret and see if it is in tune
-if it is flat, saddle moves towards the neck, if it is sharp move it away?

i guess i'll see how bad it is,
if worse comes to worst, i think the only two that i'll need to fix will be the A and the E (or the E and B, or whatever the lowest two end up being)

Arx · #12 03-31-2008, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pilotjones

I'm trying to help out here, since it looks like you haven't made the final screw holes yet.

No, but it looks like those are the ones that bolt through the body with the ferrules, which appear to be drilled/installed already.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rudeboy

I was kinda wondering about that (and hoping that it would work)

Since ive got strings on it, i can do my best to une it and see if adjustments need to be made. I don't think that it would be too late, but it would be a lot of trouble.

So, this is what i understand about adjusting the bridge, correct me if i'm wrong:
-tune the open string
-hold down the 12th fret and see if it is in tune
-if it is flat, saddle moves towards the neck, if it is sharp move it away?

i guess i'll see how bad it is,
if worse comes to worst, i think the only two that i'll need to fix will be the A and the E (or the E and B, or whatever the lowest two end up being)

That's pretty much the gist of it. Generally you'll want to install bridges so that the saddle, adjusted almost to its full nutward position lines up with the "ideal bridge line", which is dictated by the scale length of the neck. That will give you the most adjustability. As mentioned, yours is actually kind of the opposite. You have the least adjustment where you need the most.

Otherwise it looks good. Hopefully you've got room to take them out and put them where they belong. If not, you can always get a big chunky one piece bridge that'll cover up all of the holes.

Rudeboy · #13 03-31-2008, 01:34 PM

well, i guess you live and learn,

i think i'll get the electronics in and see how well it fares.
I tuned it up and the top 4 strings will do alright (although, the lowest of those just barely works.) The tuner i'm using won't pick up the low e string, so i won't know for sure that it needs to change until its amplified.

as you can see, i'm trying to deny the inevitability of moving that lowest string's bridge

if worst comes to worst, i can dowel it and move it. Really, you'll only be able to tell from the back.

yea, when i lined it up, i didn't really know which way things went, so I found the ideal bridge pint and put it in the middle so that each string had a little play.