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06-28-2010, 05:47 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Houston, Tx | | | Fixing a dumb mistake.
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I'm getting real close to finishing my project (starting it really, it's been in pieces for about a year) and I need to fix a mistake I made when I first started. I decided to get a paint scraper and scrape paint off starting at the chips in the paint. Needless to say I took bits of wood out and stuff. How do I fill these dents and gaps in the wood? I have one pic but I'm not sure if it shows the marks, and I'm away from it till august.
Thanks for any help. I'll dig the pic up and post it.
Edit: Facepalm. Pics were taken before I stripped it.
Last edited by Tommygunn : 06-28-2010 at 05:53 PM.
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06-28-2010, 05:55 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Towson, Maryland | | | Some sort of wood filler? | 
06-28-2010, 05:56 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Houston, Tx | | | Isn't wood filler for just filling grain? These are big @$$ gaps. | 
06-28-2010, 06:00 PM
| | Registered User Luthier of Michael Wayne Instruments, Shop Manager ChromeDomeMusic | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Cincinnati OH | | | Epoxy
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Originally Posted by Musiclogic geeeeeez Sometimes you should put a "common sense dictates NOT doing this" disclaimer | | 
06-28-2010, 06:02 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Houston, Tx | | | As in the fingerboard protector? Since its some what deep do I do it in layers so it will dry? Where can I buy it(Home Depot, ect?)? Approx price?
Thanks | 
06-28-2010, 06:15 PM
|  | "The Jewish Lumberjack" | | Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Roseburg, Or | | | assuming you're painting this thing... I've used an automotive body filler, it worked stellar.
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06-28-2010, 07:14 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Houston, Tx | | Yeah its a 98 squier so it will be painted  haha | 
06-28-2010, 08:24 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: NSB Central Florida | | | Automotive body filler/Bondo will work fine as long as the gaps aren't too massive.
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06-28-2010, 08:58 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Michigan's U.P. | | | Lots of basses and guitars with bondo in/on them throughout time....
And Tommygun -
Wood filler is for what you did to the bass, grain filler is for filling the gaps in the grain. So is sanding sealer (to a lesser degree). I would hesitate to use epoxy for a surface finish application. the material is so hard you could have issues while sanding the body and remove too much of the wood around the patch.
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06-28-2010, 10:24 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Tifton,Georgia | | | I wouldn't recommend using body filler unless you know how to mix the filler with the hardner right,and know what you're doing.
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06-29-2010, 06:26 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: NSB Central Florida | | Quote:
Originally Posted by 5string5fingers I wouldn't recommend using body filler unless you know how to mix the filler with the hardner right,and know what you're doing. | Really? Its no more difficult to work with then epoxy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8gsO...eature=related
Directions, usually, are written on the side of the can. A good rule of thumb is, if they sell it at Home Cheapo then its gotta be user friendly.
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06-29-2010, 06:38 AM
|  | Registered User Midtown Guitars | | Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: 810, Michigan | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruckus_Instrmts | be careful with that "rule of thumb". they sell things that are sharp or make fire....hell maybe they sell something that does both. | 
06-29-2010, 06:54 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Houston, Tx | | | Yes this is a basic refinish/fix up project. Painting it is the only thing I will not be doing myself (well my uncle will be showing my how to do the pup routes properly, for the next time I do something like this), and thats just cause ReRanch doesn't have the color I'm looking for. So I need the easiest one of these options. | 
06-29-2010, 08:33 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: South Africa | | | Bondo is fairly easy, like solid fibreglass resin....which it essentially is. It needs to be mixed through very well, and rather err on the side of too much hardener in the mix. Smooth it down properly, and the use a spot filler for the remaining dents. Once the bondo is sanded flat it is a good idea to seal it with a primer, as it will absob moisture, which will cause havoc down the line.
If in doubt, take it to an autoshop and pay the guy a few buck to do it for you... | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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