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02-24-2007, 04:06 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Yonkers, NY | | | Fixing Stripped Neck Holes
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I have an old no name Flying V Guitar with 2 stripped neck holes. Its the 2 holes closest to the nut so when its strung up, the neck actually lifts out of the neck pocket. I was wondering what method you guys prefer to fix such a problem. I'm thinking either A) drill out the holes and glue in wooden dowels and then redrill. but that might not have enough strength. B) maybe some threaded steel inserts. Thats the 2 ways I've thought could work. if theyre are any other let me know. Thanks! | 
02-24-2007, 04:19 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Northeast, US | | | I would think the dowel way is legitimate, although you want to be sure the wood you use is tough, not cheapie dowels from an arts store.
But, I'm guessing. Ok builders, chime in and help out.
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Frank
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02-24-2007, 04:21 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Northeast, US | | | By the way, maybe if you e-mail over at StewMac.com, someone in the know might give you a good answer.
[Maybe you can get an answer from Dan Erlewine]
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Frank
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02-24-2007, 04:40 PM
| | | | Just dowel with hardwood doweling. And don't go any bigger than needed.
Also, make sure that the dowel is as tight as possible in the hole. Drill erring on the side of too tight, then sand the dowel down to size.
And wait at least 24 hours before you re-drill. | 
02-24-2007, 05:22 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Yonkers, NY | | | Thats probably the way I will go then. Thanks! | 
02-24-2007, 05:23 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Urbana, IL | | Quote:
Originally Posted by thisSNsucks Thats probably the way I will go then. Thanks! | Be sure to glue it in well, too!
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02-24-2007, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Trevorus Be sure to glue it in well, too! | Definately.
Use a Q-Tip to wipe down the whole inside of the drill-hole with glue, and get a full even coat on the dowel when you go to insert it.
Also, you'll need to figure out a way to trim the dowel flush with the neck when all is said and done. I'd suggest a chisel or a Japanese Dozuki (or flush-cut) saw. | 
02-24-2007, 06:27 PM
|  | Supporting Member Owner/Builder: Regenerate Guitar Works | | Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Upper Left Corner (Seattle) | | | my recommendation all depends on what tools you have available to use.
1) if you have a drill press and the correct size forstner or brad point bit, then I'd definitely lean towards the threaded inserts - you won't be stripping these out again in the future. and if you're going to replace two, you might as well do all four.
2) if you only have a hand drill, then I'd go the wooden dowel route.
in either case, be sure to go easy on the wood screw tightening in the future and be sure to utilize the same thread each time you re-insert the woodscrews into the neck ... a little turn in the reverse direction will allow you to 'click' into the original thread that was cut, keeping as much meat in the hole as possible.
and also remember that wood screws ain't meant for torque at the same level that a machine screw is - go easy there with your tightening
all the best,
R | 
02-25-2007, 09:12 PM
| | Banned | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Detroit | | | Wooden dowel is a perfectly good method. Follow Steve'r's technique, and definitely use a hardwood for the dowel. I'm sure you can find a store local to you that sells maple or oak dowels of different sizes, those woods will be perfect. | 
02-25-2007, 09:52 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Philadelphia, PA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodent keeping as much meat in the hole as possible.
| I feel like a giddy 13 year old reading this...I know it's immature, but you have to admit that it sounds funny! | 
02-25-2007, 11:45 PM
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