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05-13-2010, 11:52 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada | | | Flying V body repair
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My son bought himself a very nice BC Rich Kerry King signiture series flying V. He got a great deal because when the store recieved the guitar they found that a portion of one of the tips on the body had been knocked off.
My question is... what is the best method to repair this? I have most (but not all) of what was knocked off. I was thinking about epoxying the pieces that I have back in place and then filling the missing areas with a mixture of epoxy and micro-balloons. This could then be sanded to shape and then the paint would have to be touched up. Might have to get the paint done professionally to blend the clear cote.
Am I on the right track with this? |
05-13-2010, 12:30 PM
| | Registered User
Luthier of Michael Wayne Instruments, Shop Manager ChromeDomeMusic | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Cincinnati OH | | | My approach would be different for an American and an import. Pics would allow us to help better.
__________________ Blunt: a:abrupt in speech; b:being direct Quote:
Originally Posted by christw  My hair is ready. | Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiclogic geeeeeez Sometimes you should put a "common sense dictates NOT doing this" disclaimer | |
05-13-2010, 12:33 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada | | | I am at work right now... but if pics would help I will try to get some up later tonight.
Why would you use a different approach depending on whether it's an American or an import? |
05-13-2010, 12:42 PM
| | Registered User
Luthier of Michael Wayne Instruments, Shop Manager ChromeDomeMusic | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Cincinnati OH | | | If it's an American BCR I would do a proper (expensive) repair. If it's an import I would do a quick (cheap) repair.
__________________ Blunt: a:abrupt in speech; b:being direct Quote:
Originally Posted by christw My hair is ready. | Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiclogic geeeeeez Sometimes you should put a "common sense dictates NOT doing this" disclaimer | |
05-13-2010, 12:47 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada | | | Regular retail was close to $1500 (CAD). Me thinks it might be an American BCR. What do I look for to tell for sure? |
05-13-2010, 12:55 PM
| | Registered User
Luthier of Michael Wayne Instruments, Shop Manager ChromeDomeMusic | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Cincinnati OH | | | $1500 CND retail will not be an American. You will be looking for a "R" on the headstock. Anything else will be an import unless it's a late 80's.
__________________ Blunt: a:abrupt in speech; b:being direct Quote:
Originally Posted by christw My hair is ready. | Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiclogic geeeeeez Sometimes you should put a "common sense dictates NOT doing this" disclaimer | |
05-13-2010, 01:26 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada | | | Thanks for the info... I'll check when I get home. |
05-13-2010, 09:15 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada | | | You were right. The serial number starts with an E. She was made in Korea. Here are some pics of the damaged area. Some with the broken bits in place, some without. |
05-13-2010, 09:16 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada | | | More pics... |
05-13-2010, 09:18 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada | | | and one more pic... |
05-13-2010, 09:19 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada | | | Any specific suggestions on a proper method to repair this? |
05-14-2010, 12:19 AM
|  | _______________ | | Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Eagle River, AK | | | Have you considered gluing in the piece that was salvaged, then using bondo or epoxy puty for filler? The tough part is probably going to be the black finish. First, not all black is black. Amazing how many shades there are. And then, on an angular body with really straight lines, the body work will have to be nearly perfect if you don't want the seam to show. Black shows everything. I just got done with a black explorer, and I will never do that again.
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There are 10 kinds of people in the world. Those who understand binary, and those who don't.
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05-14-2010, 12:41 AM
| | | leave it as it is  it's starting to get some mojo
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Old Basstard #62
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05-14-2010, 01:39 AM
| | Craftsman | | Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Fort Montgomery, NY | | Quote:
Originally Posted by coffin blurt leave it as it is it's starting to get some mojo | +1
Or glue the piece back on and paint that corner some other color to highlight it. Take the wabi-sabi approach.
"Nothing is perfect, nothing is finished, and nothing lasts."
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-Ray
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05-14-2010, 06:45 AM
| | Registered User
Luthier of Michael Wayne Instruments, Shop Manager ChromeDomeMusic | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Cincinnati OH | | | I would glue the piece back on, use epoxy to rebuild the surface, then sand and paint just that corner to match.
__________________ Blunt: a:abrupt in speech; b:being direct Quote:
Originally Posted by christw My hair is ready. | Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiclogic geeeeeez Sometimes you should put a "common sense dictates NOT doing this" disclaimer | |
05-14-2010, 06:59 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada | | | Thanks guys... sounds like my original plan is the way to go. Thanks for the confirmation. Now I just gotta' get off my but and go do it! | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | | 
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