Formby's Tung Oil

[zagnut]

Well, after 8 hours of sanding by hand, I almost have the previous finish off my bass body. I only have to sand the back and go over the whole thing lightly with some finer paper.
I decided to use a tung oil, because I love the natural looks of wood on a bass. I'm using Formby's high gloss because, well, that's about all I have access to here in nowheresville Iowa.

I've found a couple of threads with people that have used this particular brand before, but I'm wondering if anyone has any proven methods with this brand tung oil when it comes to applying it.

[Rickett Customs]

Originally Posted by zagnut

Well, after 8 hours of sanding by hand, I almost have the previous finish off my bass body. I only have to sand the back and go over the whole thing lightly with some finer paper.
I decided to use a tung oil, because I love the natural looks of wood on a bass. I'm using Formby's high gloss because, well, that's about all I have access to here in nowheresville Iowa.

I've found a couple of threads with people that have used this particular brand before, but I'm wondering if anyone has any proven methods with this brand tung oil when it comes to applying it.

I put about 4 coats on the eub i'm building, on the oak veneer:

[CapnSev]

I put like 10 coats of this stuff on a Wishbass I owned, and the finish was awesome! I put 1 coat on per day, and sanded with really fine steel wool between coats. It really looked good, I'd use it again in a heartbeat.

[etoncrow]

You might check out threads on Birch's "Tru-Oil". There are plenty. Its used on gun stocks and sold at nearly every gun shop.

[madmachinist]

let it DRY and don't mess w/ it until. 000 steel wool between coats. re-coat lightly w/
the stuff, or you'll solve the previous coat and make a mush. i have done several necks
and furniture with the same stuff . it works well for building up a finish . take it slow
and be patient .

[John Wentzien]

I used this on my first build about 15 years ago for my hero Ted Brooks. Still looks great to this day.
I wiped it on with a lint-free cloth. Let it soak in for a few minutes and then wipe off the excess. Let it dry overnight. Lightly sand. Do this at least 3 times (or until the wood won't absorb any more oil). Leave the last coat on without wiping. I think Formby's has aplication pads for this.

[CapnSev]

Originally Posted by John Wentzien

I think Formby's has aplication pads for this.

Yup. I got it at home depot and used it on my finish job.

[62bass]

Originally Posted by zagnut

Well, after 8 hours of sanding by hand, I almost have the previous finish off my bass body. I only have to sand the back and go over the whole thing lightly with some finer paper.
I decided to use a tung oil, because I love the natural looks of wood on a bass. I'm using Formby's high gloss because, well, that's about all I have access to here in nowheresville Iowa.

I've found a couple of threads with people that have used this particular brand before, but I'm wondering if anyone has any proven methods with this brand tung oil when it comes to applying it.

The advice the others have given is good. Talke it slow and let each coat dry properly before adding the next. I like to use fine sandpaper, 600 grit aluminium oxide, between coats.

Before you start however, wipe down your bass after the final sanding, with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits (paint thinner) which you'll probably want to keep handy for clean up anyhow. While the mineral spirits are still wet on the bass, it will show up any areas that need extra work with sanding or spots where all the old sealer may be not completely off. It dries quickly and you'll be ready to apply your first coat.

Don't wad up old oil soaked cloths and toss them in the trash. Soak them in water and dispose of or hang them on a line outside to dry hard. They can spontaneously combust.

All these oil/varnish blends of tung oils and thinner and usually some alkyd resin are similar but many dry slower than others. You just have to give it enough time. I wouldn't apply more than 3 coats a day even if it seems that the 3rd coat is dry enough. Wait overnight so all the previous coats have some time to harden up more so you don't trap any solvents underneath.

Adding a few drops, maybe a small capful, of Japan dryer to the Formby's will speed hardening. Add it to the container you pour the finish into (I use a tuna can) and not the can of Formby's or you'll set up the whole batch. Work in a warm room too. Above 70 F is best.

[zagnut]

Thanks guys, you pretty much answered my main question about how long to wait between coats. The can says to wait 12 hours. I was afraid if I waited too long between coats, it would ruin the finish, like some paints.
I picked up a small stain kit, which includes a disposable tray and applicator pads. Have my 0000 steel wool (might go with 600-800 al oxide sandpaper) for between coats.
Most of the previous finish should be off, it appears to be anyways. I started with 60 grit, then 80, then 100, then 150, then 220, then 320, and finally 400. Smooth as a baby's butt. Here's the problem though, if there is any of the previous finish left, it might have to stay. See, this is a really cheap Washburn Lyon series that is made up of multiple layers of wood. It looks like 2 types. Pretty sure 1 type is swamp ash, but don't know about the other. In total, there's probably around 12 different layers. Any further sanding and I risk sanding right through the top laminate, which happens to be the pretty wood.

Quick question about cleaning before application. I have some denatured alcohol, can I use that instead of mineral spirits? I think I remember something from my days of wood shop in high school about alcohol raising the grain. Would this be a bad thing to clean it with before applying?

[62bass]

Originally Posted by zagnut

Thanks guys, you pretty much answered my main question about how long to wait between coats. The can says to wait 12 hours. I was afraid if I waited too long between coats, it would ruin the finish, like some paints.
I picked up a small stain kit, which includes a disposable tray and applicator pads. Have my 0000 steel wool (might go with 600-800 al oxide sandpaper) for between coats.
Most of the previous finish should be off, it appears to be anyways. I started with 60 grit, then 80, then 100, then 150, then 220, then 320, and finally 400. Smooth as a baby's butt. Here's the problem though, if there is any of the previous finish left, it might have to stay. See, this is a really cheap Washburn Lyon series that is made up of multiple layers of wood. It looks like 2 types. Pretty sure 1 type is swamp ash, but don't know about the other. In total, there's probably around 12 different layers. Any further sanding and I risk sanding right through the top laminate, which happens to be the pretty wood.

Quick question about cleaning before application. I have some denatured alcohol, can I use that instead of mineral spirits? I think I remember something from my days of wood shop in high school about alcohol raising the grain. Would this be a bad thing to clean it with before applying?

It won't raise the grain much. Water will. But, wipe it on to clean the bass and when it's dry, give it a light sanding with 400 again to cut off any nibs. That'll take care of the problem if there even is any.

I don't know if you can get aluminium oxide as fine as 600 grit. I use silicone carbide paper above 400. It works just fine and you can wet sand with it as well as dry.

Formby's takes a long time to dry compared to some of the others, like Minwax. I'd get some japan dryer and add a bit to each coat. But, working in a warm place is very important.

[zagnut]

As anal as I am, I hit the entire body with 400 grit again. Total hand sanding time - about 12 hours.
Wiped it down for the initial cleaning and to get an idea of what it's gonna look like. Man, I can't wait to get it finished. Gonna look nice for such a cheap body. Gonna be a long waiting process since I have to do the back too. Fortunately I have other things to work on building while I wait over the next week.
After this, time to figure out how to make a cat proof cab covering.

[62bass]

Originally Posted by zagnut

As anal as I am, I hit the entire body with 400 grit again. Total hand sanding time - about 12 hours.
Wiped it down for the initial cleaning and to get an idea of what it's gonna look like. Man, I can't wait to get it finished. Gonna look nice for such a cheap body. Gonna be a long waiting process since I have to do the back too. Fortunately I have other things to work on building while I wait over the next week.
After this, time to figure out how to make a cat proof cab covering.

Keep us posted on how the formby's is working out.

You're on your own with the cat proof cab covering.

[pin_head_47]

Originally Posted by zagnut

I decided to use a tung oil, because I love the natural looks of wood on a bass. I'm using Formby's high gloss because, well, that's about all I have access to here in nowheresville Iowa.

I feel your pain from my location... it's a wonderful thing, isn't it?

[Jumbotron]

I used Formby's on a body I finished last summer, and it worked great. I actually did two coats a day, and it seemed plenty dry (though at the time it was pretty hot--don't know if that has an effect). Mind you, this was on swamp ash without grain filler, which really soaks up the oil.

Towards the end (I did, I think, 12-14 coats, something like that), the only thing I did between coats was buff with a brown paper bag. I read somewhere that a paper bag is equivalent to very very fine sandpaper, and it worked really well for me. (Cheap, too!)

[phat5]

I use the low gloss from Formbys; love it. 8 applications on this one.

[zagnut]

Originally Posted by phat5

I use the low gloss from Formbys; love it. 8 applications on this one.

WHOA! What kind of wood is that!?!? Pretty!

[phat5]

Originally Posted by zagnut

WHOA! What kind of wood is that!?!? Pretty!

Thanks! That's book matched burled myrtle on top of a chambered chunk of Black Limba, from Gallery hardwoods.

[zagnut]

I got 7 coats on. Doing 1 coat a day (I missed 2 or 3 days). I can tell it's getting to the point it doesn't want to take anymore. I still haven't perfected getting a coat on without leaving any kind of "brush marks" for final coat, I'm getting close though. I'll try again today with the 8th coat.

I'm still trying to decide if I want to leave it as a gloss finish, if I can get a coat on without leaving application marks, or take my 0000 steel wool to it and make it a matte finish.

[Rickett Customs]

Here's a suggestion, if you want to put it on without brush marks,
fold up a paper towel (I know, crazy right), fold it up and soak a corner of it. does not leave lint like you think it would. Also use 0000 steelwool before applying. Try it before you say i'm crazy, It works for me.

[John Wentzien]

Originally Posted by phat5

I use the low gloss from Formbys; love it. 8 applications on this one.

Nice!
You've just convinced me to use low gloss on the new build I am starting---nice job!