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02-10-2011, 09:07 AM
| | | | FRET SAW blade tooth bent!
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I bent one of the teeth on my Stew Mac fret slotting table sawe blade ($75) when I removed it from my table saw a few weeks ago.
I don't believe I can bend it back to its EXACT shape- which makes it useless if it cuts wider than 0.023"
Will just grinding that 1 tooth off have any negative impacts?
I understand it cuold throw off the balance- but does that really matter on such a small and light weight blade, with such super tiny teeth?
If it does matter, then perhaps I just need to remove a second tooth from the opposite side to help wit the balance. |
02-10-2011, 09:22 AM
|  | Bare Bones Bass Builder | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Denver, CO | | | I have this same blade. My instinct is that you would be okay carefully grinding off the one tooth, but this thought is based on the fact that I have lost a carbide tip or two off of my other large blades over the years to no ill effect. I doubt you'd have a balance issue, as you say, removing one tooth on such a small blade, especially if you're using stabilizers. I probably would not try removing a tooth on the other side of the blade unless removing the damaged tooth yielded poor results. This is all just speculation on my part, though; the risk remains yours. At this point, though (pun intended), you're faced with either attempting the modification and having to replace the blade anyway, or replacing the blade without attempting the modification. I'd be interested in hearing how this turns out. Good luck!
__________________ "If any man says he hates war more than I do, he better have a knife, that's all I have to say." --Jack Handey www.inactivists.com |
02-10-2011, 09:30 AM
|  | Registered User
Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southwest Michigan | | | There will be a definate difference, and you blade will develop a stress point behind the tooth. This equates to the blade fracturing at some point in time, and comming apart. Due to it's thinness, I can only tell you to understand the inevitable failure, and know it will be dramatic. Be careful |
02-10-2011, 09:41 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiclogic  There will be a definate difference, and you blade will develop a stress point behind the tooth. This equates to the blade fracturing at some point in time, and comming apart. Due to it's thinness, I can only tell you to understand the inevitable failure, and know it will be dramatic. Be careful | Do you use this blade? If you are not, take note that this blade is only really thin on its very outer edge, the rest of the blasde is much thicker. I was thinking that would work to my advantage in both strength and balance issues. |
02-10-2011, 11:16 AM
| | Registered User
Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southwest Michigan | | | Umm, Yeah, I have 3 of them in my "Cool Lute" shop in 3 of my 4 slotting jigs(and 1 LMI Blade with the seperate stabilizer discs). If you are waiting for someone to tell you what you want to hear...read reply 1. I feel no need to explain further tooth loss on a high speed blade, as it is not what you are looking for. Good Luck |
02-10-2011, 12:22 PM
|  | Registered User
Owner and builder Clementbass | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Central Florida | | | A slight derailment..... What are you all using to clean the wood resin off the blades? I have been using a brass brush to clean the ebony out of the teeth but was wondering if acetone or what would work best
The LMI blade in case it matters...t
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02-10-2011, 12:26 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiclogic Umm, Yeah, I have 3 of them in my "Cool Lute" shop in 3 of my 4 slotting jigs(and 1 LMI Blade with the seperate stabilizer discs). If you are waiting for someone to tell you what you want to hear...read reply 1. I feel no need to explain further tooth loss on a high speed blade, as it is not what you are looking for. Good Luck | I was just being hopefull that it could be salvaged. Thank you for your experienced input. |
02-10-2011, 02:29 PM
| | Registered User
Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southwest Michigan | | | Tom, I use Boeshield "blade and bit" generally for spot cleaning, and for bulk cleaning, I have a jug of the Lee Valley Blade wash which will go through the heaviest pitch in 5-10 minutes. I mix up a batch in a small bucket and do all of my blades at 1 sitting. I know Woodcraft and Rockler both sell similar products, which all have the rust inhibitors also, which both here and there are a big plus.
Bassy, I understand, as I am not a rich man either, but I have seen a blade with a broken tooth come apart, and it is reall dangerous. I don't want to see or hear about someone here getting injured, so I believe in erring on the side of safety. |
02-10-2011, 11:39 PM
| | Bare Bones Bass Builder | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Denver, CO | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiclogic I believe in erring on the side of safety. | On second thought, I agree with Musiclogic, and I retract my earlier statement. Another $75 to $80 bucks or your eye... Or worse. Safety first!
__________________ "If any man says he hates war more than I do, he better have a knife, that's all I have to say." --Jack Handey www.inactivists.com |
02-11-2011, 01:37 AM
| | Registered User
Luthier of Michael Wayne Instruments, Shop Manager ChromeDomeMusic | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Cincinnati OH | | | Good to see you came around to reason. JC is completely correct. A slight bend can be bent back if it is only the tooth. Anything more than that and you will want to replace the blade.
Tom - I use CMT Bit & Blade. It's been in my shop for years and I've been happy with how well it softens the toughest resins.
__________________ Blunt: a:abrupt in speech; b:being direct Quote:
Originally Posted by christw My hair is ready. | Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiclogic geeeeeez Sometimes you should put a "common sense dictates NOT doing this" disclaimer | |
02-11-2011, 05:44 AM
| | Registered User
Owner and builder Clementbass | | Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Central Florida | | | Thanks guys I will have to see if woodcrafters those. tom
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02-11-2011, 07:18 AM
| | | | "A slight bend can be bent back if it is only the tooth. Anything more than that and you will want to replace the blade."
I don't want to beat a dead horse.... but after reading that post, perhaps I should point out that is is only very small bend in the tooth. Perhaps it could be bent back accurately enough not to end up as a piece of scrap metal. Any advice for trying to bend it back to "perfect" shape. |
02-11-2011, 10:12 AM
| | Bare Bones Bass Builder | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Denver, CO | | Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyswood Good to see you came around to reason. JC is completely correct. A slight bend can be bent back if it is only the tooth. Anything more than that and you will want to replace the blade.
Tom - I use CMT Bit & Blade. It's been in my shop for years and I've been happy with how well it softens the toughest resins. | Yeah, I just hadn't thought it through completely. First thought, not necessarily best thought. And my experience with the occasional lost carbide tip on my larger blades was apples to oranges at best.
On the side topic, what do you guys think of this pitch and resin remover that Rockler sells? I've got it, and it seems to work fine if I soak the blade or bit and use a tooth brush for scrubbing. I've heard this product compared to glorified Windex, though, and it does seem to resemble that product in some ways. Always looking for better alternatives.
Thanks, guys.
__________________ "If any man says he hates war more than I do, he better have a knife, that's all I have to say." --Jack Handey www.inactivists.com |
02-11-2011, 11:57 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Neenah, WI | | | You may want to see if there are any sawblade sharpening service companies in your area, I would think someone there could advise you on whether repairing the blade would be safe to do. Maybe the blade can be professionally re-set. Could save you a bunch of money.
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02-11-2011, 12:50 PM
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Luthier of Michael Wayne Instruments, Shop Manager ChromeDomeMusic | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Cincinnati OH | | | No. Why would you spend $60 to repair an $80 blade?
__________________ Blunt: a:abrupt in speech; b:being direct Quote:
Originally Posted by christw My hair is ready. | Quote:
Originally Posted by Musiclogic geeeeeez Sometimes you should put a "common sense dictates NOT doing this" disclaimer | |
02-11-2011, 02:11 PM
| | Registered User
Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Southwest Michigan | | Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyswood No. Why would you spend $60 to repair an $80 blade? | ^^^Brilliant. Good old common sense. |
02-11-2011, 03:26 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Neenah, WI | | | Last saw blade I had sharpened cost me $11... but of course that was NOT a fret saw blade. Wouldn't hurt to check is all I'm saying.
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Sometimes it is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to open ones mouth and remove all doubt.
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02-11-2011, 06:32 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Detroit, MI | | Quote:
Originally Posted by tjclem A slight derailment..... What are you all using to clean the wood resin off the blades? I have been using a brass brush to clean the ebony out of the teeth but was wondering if acetone or what would work best
The LMI blade in case it matters...t | A 10 minute soak in Simply Green and a razor blade. Smells good and taste good too!
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Originally Posted by mikeyswood Experience is what you get just after you need it! | |
02-11-2011, 07:54 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Detroit, MI | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruckus_Instrmts | Well I'll be dipped in .....thanks Ruckus!
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Originally Posted by mikeyswood Experience is what you get just after you need it! | | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | | 
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