Glue for a set neck.

[Meddle]

Hello all

I know there are many threads relating to this on this and other forums, but I'm trying to clear stuff up.

I fancy a Steinberger bass, but Gibson and co are making it impossible for UK retailers to get any of the Spirit line of instruments in stock.


On top of that, I love building and modding my gear where possible, so I'm looking to build a Steinberger style headless bass thanks to a kit they sell on Ebay.






When I saw the pic I thought they forgot to include the neck plate... but it turns out it is a set neck....

Now the first tutorial on Youtube I found had a guy slopping generic PVA glue all over the joint (geddit?) and fitting it that way. Somebody in the comments section warned against PVA...


Now this is a one off build, or else I would be warming up hide glue and going down that road. However it seems that an exactly 50/50 ratio of peope will be madly in favour, and massively against, any glue suggested on forums. Some say Titebond Original is good, but prone to creeping over time. Some say Titebond III is the real winner, but some say it is no use. Some say Gorilla Glue is ok, but others say it foams out the neck pocket. Some say a briliantly tight neck pocket is the best option, some say you need a wee bit of room in there or else you get too-little a cover of glue.

Here in the UK I've seen Unibond glue in stores, and I've used it to repair an SG guitar that split around the output jack. It is generic white PVA....

It seems every luthier and hack alike (I'm in the latter) has their favorite.... can anybody offer clear advice?

[calebbarton]

I use titebond 3 on a regular basis. Its F word awesome.

Titebond also makes a "sort of" hide glue that stays liquid at normal temperatures. It supposedly gets great reviews but I have never used it....

[Hopkins]

I use regular yellow wood glue. I prefer Titebond Original (tastes better than II or III ), but Elmers or any other quality glue will work just as well

[Meddle]

Thanks for the words thus far, guys. Interesting to see somebody argue in favour of Titebond III.

I've heard of cheap PVA glue growing fungus, or just not holding at all. I've heard of Titebond coming unstuck in hot cars but hey, I live in Scotland. We dream of hot cars here.

[ibateur]

You also have the option of threading screws into the neck and making it a bolt on.

[wcoffey81]

"gorilla" also makes white woodworkers glue. it seems to have a little more initial grab than titebond 3 but you should still have plenty of time for proper clamping and alignment.
if you do use one of the polyurethane glues be sure to very carefully tape around the joint. the foaming squeezeout will be a bear to deal with if it gets on to something to be finished.

[Meddle]

Originally Posted by ibateur

You also have the option of threading screws into the neck and making it a bolt on.

Pragmatic to a tee.

Interesting to hear about Gorilla making a white glue as well. Thanks for that.

[Beej]

Titebond III has a longer work time than original Titebond, but a potential major drawback is that it's brown when it dries. For some woodworking it's not a problem, but it can mess with the design of your bass if you're not aware of how it dries.

I'd stay away from Gorilla glue on a bass, pretty messy and does not outperform regular titebond in my own experience. I've found regular titebond is good for most gluing on neck joints.

I tried that Titebond hide glue once and what a disappointment. The real thing is much better...

[Dave Higham]

Here we go again with a glue thread, and people giving out all sorts of misinformation.

Beej has given you the best advice. Titebond Original is the one that DOESN'T creep. C.F.Martin has used it to make thousands of acoustic guitars. Nuff said. (There are a hell of a lot more components under stress in an acoustic instrument).

Anyone who leaves an instrument in a car in summer deserves all they get.

You could bolt the neck on if you have enough thickness at the bottom of the neck pocket, but looking at the photo, it doesn't look as if you have.

[gidbass]

Originally Posted by Meddle

Hello all

I know there are many threads relating to this on this and other forums, but I'm trying to clear stuff up.

I fancy a Steinberger bass, but Gibson and co are making it impossible for UK retailers to get any of the Spirit line of instruments in stock.


On top of that, I love building and modding my gear where possible, so I'm looking to build a Steinberger style headless bass thanks to a kit they sell on Ebay.

When I saw the pic I thought they forgot to include the neck plate... but it turns out it is a set neck....

Now the first tutorial on Youtube I found had a guy slopping generic PVA glue all over the joint (geddit?) and fitting it that way. Somebody in the comments section warned against PVA...


Now this is a one off build, or else I would be warming up hide glue and going down that road. However it seems that an exactly 50/50 ratio of peope will be madly in favour, and massively against, any glue suggested on forums. Some say Titebond Original is good, but prone to creeping over time. Some say Titebond III is the real winner, but some say it is no use. Some say Gorilla Glue is ok, but others say it foams out the neck pocket. Some say a briliantly tight neck pocket is the best option, some say you need a wee bit of room in there or else you get too-little a cover of glue.

Here in the UK I've seen Unibond glue in stores, and I've used it to repair an SG guitar that split around the output jack. It is generic white PVA....

It seems every luthier and hack alike (I'm in the latter) has their favorite.... can anybody offer clear advice?

Please post pictures of the actual kit when you receive it. I am very interested in one myself.

Thanks for sharing this!

[Meddle]

Originally Posted by Dave Higham

Here we go again with a glue thread, and people giving out all sorts of misinformation.

I think there should be a stickied glue thread, or similar. I had to start a thread because the internet is crawling with contradictory information regarding types of glue and their effectiveness.

Seems Titebond Original is winning at the moment!

[ZoldosCustom]

I can only comment on my own personal experience and what I find works best is Titebond original. This is the only glue that I have ever used and have never had a problem with any joints breaking free, or anything coming delaminated. I seen someone use gorilla glue in a neck joint, and they were stuck chiseling that stuff off and cleaning up the mess for about a day and a half. I would go with Titebond Original.